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I bought the Fairphone Fairbuds XL with my own money at a recent sale for 186.75 EUR, plus 15 EUR for shipping to Estonia. The normal price for these headphones is 239 EUR. This post is not sponsored. I admire what Fairphone wants to achieve, even going as far as getting the Fairphone 5 as a replacement for my iPhone X. Failing to repair my current headphones, I went ahead and decided to get the Fairphone Fairbuds XL as they also advertise the active noise-cancelling feature, and I like the Fairphone brand. Disclaimer: this review is going to be entirely subjective and based on my opinions and experiences with other audio products in the past. I also have tinnitus.1 I consulted rtings.com review before purchasing the product to get an idea about what to expect as a consumer. The comparison headphones The main point of comparison for this review is going to be the Sony WH-1000XM3, which are premium high-end wireless Bluetooth headphones, with active noise-cancelling (before that feature...
3 months ago

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More from ./techtipsy

My horrible Fairphone customer care experience

Fairphone has bad customer support. It’s not an issue with the individual customer support agents, I know how difficult their job is1, and I’m sure that they’re trying their best, but it’s a more systematic issue in the organization itself. It’s become so bad that Fairphone issued an open letter to the Fairphone community forum acknowledging the issue and steps they’re taking to fix it. Until then, I only have my experience to go by. I’ve contacted Fairphone customer support twice, once with a question about Fairphone 5 security updates not arriving in a timely manner, and another time with a request to refund the Fairphone Fairbuds XL as part of the 14-day policy. In both cases, I received an initial reply over 1 month later. It’s not that catastrophic for a non-critical query, but in situations where you have a technical issue with a product, this can become a huge inconvenience for the customer. I recently gave the Fairbuds XL a try because the reviews for it online were decent and I want to support the Fairphone project, but I found the sound profile very underwhelming and the noise cancelling did not work adequately.2 I decided to use the 14-day return policy that Fairphone advertise, which led to the worst customer care experience I’ve had so far.3 Here’s a complete timeline of the process on how to return a set of headphones to the manufacturer for a refund. 2025-02-10: initial purchase of the headphones 2025-02-14: I receive the headphones and test them out, with disappointing results 2025-02-16: I file a support ticket with Fairphone indicating that I wish to return the headphones according to their 14-day return policy 2025-02-25: I ask again about the refund after not hearing back from Faiprhone 2025-03-07: I receive an automated message that apologized for the delay and asked me to not make any additional tickets on the matter, which I had not been doing 2025-04-01: I start the chargeback process for the payment through my bank due to Fairphone support not replying over a month later 2025-04-29: Fairphone support finally responds with instructions on how to send back the device to receive a refund 2025-05-07: after acquiring packaging material and printing out three separate documents (UPS package card, invoice, Cordon Electronics sales voucher), I hand the headphones over to UPS 2025-05-15: I ask Fairphone about when the refund will be issued 2025-05-19 16:20 EEST: I receive a notice from Cordon Electronics confirming they have received the headphones 2025-05-19 17:50 EEST: I receive a notice from Cordon Electronics letting me know that they have started the process, whatever that means 2025-05-19 20:05 EEST: I receive a notice from Cordon Electronics saying that the repairs are done and they are now shipping the device back to me (!) 2025-05-19 20:14 EEST: I contact Fairphone support about this notice that I received, asking for a clarification 2025-05-19 20:24 EEST: I also send an e-mail to Cordon Electronics clarifying the situation and asking them to not send the device back to me, but instead return it to Fairphone for a refund 2025-05-20 14:42 EEST: Cordon Electronics informs me that they have already shipped the device and cannot reverse the decision 2025-05-21: Fairphone support responds, saying that it is being sent back due to a processing error, and that I should try to “refuse the order” 2025-05-22: I inform Fairphone support about the communication with Cordon Electronics 2025-05-27: Fairphone is aware of the chargeback that I initiated and they believe the refund is issued, however I have not yet received it 2025-05-27: I receive the headphones for the second time. 2025-05-28: I inform Fairphone support about the current status of the headphones and refund (still not received) 2025-05-28: Fairphone support recommends that I ask the bank about the status of the refund, I do so but don’t receive any useful information from them 2025-06-03: Fairphone support asks if I’ve received the refund yet 2025-06-04: I receive the refund through the dispute I raised through the bank. This is almost 4 months after the initial purchase took place. 2025-06-06: Fairphone sends me instructions on how to send back the headphones for the second time. 2025-06-12: I inform Fairphone that I have prepared the package and will post it next week due to limited access to a printer and the shipping company office 2025-06-16: I ship the device back to Fairphone again. There’s an element of human error in the whole experience, but the initial lack of communication amplified my frustrations and also contributed to my annoyances with my Fairphone 5 boiling over. And just like that, I’ve given up on Fairphone as a brand, and will be skeptical about buying any new products from them. I was what one would call a “brand evangelist” to them, sharing my good initial experiences with the phone to my friends, family, colleagues and the world at large, but bad experiences with customer care and the devices themselves have completely turned me off. If you have interacted with Fairphone support after this post is live, then please share your experiences in the Fairphone community forum, or reach out to me directly (with proof). I would love to update this post after getting confirmation that Fairphone has fixed the issues with their customer care and addressed the major shortcomings in their products. I don’t want to crap on Fairphone, I want them to do better. Repairability, sustainability and longevity still matter. I haven’t worked as a customer care agent, but I have worked in retail, so I roughly know what level of communication the agents are treated with, often unfairly. ↩︎ that experience reminded me of how big of a role music plays in my life. I’ve grown accustomed to using good sounding headphones and I immediately noticed all the little details being missing in my favourite music. ↩︎ until this point, the worst experience I had was with Elisa Eesti AS, a major ISP in Estonia. I wanted to use my own router-modem box that was identical to the rented one from the ISP, and that only got resolved 1.5 months later after I expressed intent to switch providers. Competition matters! ↩︎

a week ago 13 votes
Lenovo ThinkCentre M900 Tiny: how does it fare as a home server?

My evenings of absent-minded local auction site scrolling1 paid off: I now own a Lenovo ThinkCentre M900 Tiny. It’s relatively old, being manufactured in 20162, but it’s tiny and has a lot of useful life left in it. It’s also featured in the TinyMiniMicro series by ServeTheHome. I managed to get it for 60 EUR plus about 4 EUR shipping, and it comes with solid specifications: CPU: Intel i5-6500T RAM: 16GB DDR4 Storage: 256GB SSD Power adapter included The price is good compared to similar auctions, but was it worth it? Yes, yes it was. I have been running a ThinkPad T430 as a server for a while now, since October 2024. It served me well in that role and would’ve served me for even longer if I wanted to, but I had an itch for a project that didn’t involve renovating an apartment.3 Power usage One of my main curiosities was around the power usage. Will this machine beat the laptop in terms of efficiency while idling and running normal home server workloads? Yes, yes it does. While booting into Windows 11 and calming down a bit, the lowest idle power numbers I saw were around 8 W. This concludes the testing on Windows. On Linux (Fedora Server 42), the idle power usage was around 6.5 W to 7 W. After running powertop --auto-tune, I ended up getting that down to 6.1 W - 6.5 W. This is much lower compared to the numbers that ServeTheHome got, which were around 11-13 W (120V circuit). My measurements are made in Europe, Estonia, where we have 240V circuits. You may be able to find machines where the power usage is even lower. Louwrentius mada an idle power comparison on an HP EliteDesk Mini G3 800 where they measured it at 4 W. That might also be due to other factors in play, or differences in measurement tooling. During normal home server operation with 5 SATA SSD-s connected (4 of them with USB-SATA adapters), I have observed power consumption being around 11-15 W, with peaks around 40 W. On a pure CPU load with stress -c 8, I saw power consumption being around 32 W. Formatting the internal SATA SSD added 5 W to that figure. USB storage, are you crazy? Yes. But hear me out. Back in 2021, I wrote about USB storage being a very bad idea, especially on BTRFS. I’ve learned a lot over the years, and BTRFS has received continuous improvements as well. In my ThinkPad T430 home server setup, I had two USB-connected SSD-s running in RAID0 for over half a year, and it was completely fine unless you accidentally bumped into the SSD-s. USB-connected storage is fine under the right circumstances: the cables are not damaged the cables are not at a weird angle or twisted I actually had issues with this point, my very cool and nice cable management resulted in one disk having connectivity issues, which I fixed by relieving stress on the cables and routing them differently the connected PC does not have chronic overheating issues the whole setup is out of the reach of cats, dogs, children and clumsy sysadmin cosplayers the USB-SATA adapters pass through the device ID and S.M.A.R.T information to the host the device ID part especially is key to avoiding issues with various filesystems (especially ZFS) and storage pool setups the ICY BOX IB-223U3a-B is a good option that I have personally been very happy with, and it’s what I’m using in this server build a lot of adapters (mine included) don’t support running SSD TRIM commands to the drives, which might be a concern has not been an issue for over half a year with those ICY BOX adapters, but it’s something to keep in mind you are not using an SBC as the home server even a Raspberry Pi 4 can barely handle one USB-powered SSD not an issue if you use an externally powered drive, or an USB DAS After a full BTRFS scrub and a few days of running, it seems fine. Plus it looks sick as hell with the identical drives stacked on top. All that’s missing are labels specifying which drive is which, but I’m sure that I’ll get to that someday, hopefully before a drive failure happens. In a way, this type of setup best represents what a novice home server enthusiast may end up with: a tiny, power-efficient PC with a bunch of affordable drives connected. Less insane storage ideas for a tiny PC There are alternative options for handling storage on a tiny 1 liter PC, but they have some downsides that I don’t want to be dealing with right now. An USB DAS allows you to handle many drives with ease, but they are also damn expensive. If you pick wrong, you might also end up with one where the USB-SATA chip craps out under high load, which will momentarily drop all the drives, leaving you with a massive headache to deal with. Cheaper USB-SATA docks are more prone to this, but I cannot confirm or deny if more expensive options have the same issue. Running individual drives sidesteps this issue and moves any potential issues to the host USB controller level. There is also a distinct lack of solutions that are designed around 2.5" drives only. Most of them are designed around massive and power-hungry 3.5" drives. I just want to run my 4 existing SATA SSD-s until they crap out completely. An additional box that does stuff generally adds to the overall power consumption of the setup as well, which I am not a big fan of. Lowering the power consumption of the setup was the whole point! I can’t rule out testing USB DAS solutions in the future as they do seem handy for adding storage to tiny PC-s and laptops with ease, but for now I prefer going the individually connected drives route, especially because I don’t feel like replacing my existing drives, they still have about 94% SSD health in them after 3-4 years of use, and new drives are expensive. Or you could go full jank and use that one free NVMe slot in the tiny PC to add more SATA ports or break out to other devices, such as a PCIe HBA, and introduce a lot of clutter to the setup with an additional power supply, cables and drives. Or use 3.5" external hard drives with separate power adapters. It’s what I actually tried out back in 2021, but I had some major annoyances with the noise. Miscellaneous notes Here are some notes on everything else that I’ve noticed about this machine. The PC is quite efficient as demonstrated by the power consumption numbers, and as a result it runs very cool, idling around 30-35 °C in a ~22-24 °C environment. Under a heavy load, the CPU temperatures creep up to 65-70 °C, which is perfectly acceptable. The fan does come on at higher load and it’s definitely audible, but in my case it runs in a ventilated closet, so I don’t worry about that at all. The CPU (Intel i5-6500T) is plenty fast for all sorts of home server workloads with its 4 CPU cores and clock speeds of 2.7-2.8 GHz under load. The UEFI settings offered a few interesting options that I decided to change, the rest are set to default. There is an option to enable an additional C-state for even better power savings. For home server workloads, it was nice to see the setting to allow you to boot the PC without a keyboard being attached, found under “Keyboardless operation” setting. I guess that in some corporate environments disconnected keyboards are such a common helpdesk issue that it necessitates having this option around. Closing thoughts I just like these tiny PC boxes a lot. They are tiny, fast and have a very solid construction, which makes them feel very premium in your hands. They are also perfectly usable, extensible and can be an absolute bargain at the right price. With solid power consumption figures that are only a few watts off of a Raspberry Pi 5, it might make more sense to get a TinyMiniMicro machine for your next home server. I’m definitely very happy with mine. well, at least it beats doom-scrolling social media. ↩︎ yeah, I don’t like being reminded of being old, too. ↩︎ there are a lot of similarities between construction/renovation work and software development, but that’s a story for another time. ↩︎

3 weeks ago 17 votes
We get laptops with annoying cooling fans because we keep buying them

I don’t like laptops with loud cooling fans in them. Quite a controversial position, I know. But really, they do suck. A laptop can be great to use, have a fantastic keyboard, sharp display, lots of storage and a fast CPU, and all of that can be ruined by one component: the cooling fan. Laptop fans are small, meaning that they have to run faster to have any meaningful cooling effect, which means that they are usually very loud and often have a high-pitched whine to them, making them especially obnoxious. Sometimes it feels like a deliberate attack on one of my senses. Fans introduce a maintenance burden. They keep taking in dust, which tends to accumulate at the heat sink. If you skip maintenance, then you’ll see your performance drop and the laptop will get notably hot, which may contribute to a complete hardware failure. We’ve seen tremendous progress in the world of consumer CPU-s over the last decade. Power consumption is much lower while idle, processors can do a lot more work in the same power envelope, and yet most laptops that I see in use are still actively cooled by an annoying-ass cooling fan.1 And yet we keep buying them. But it doesn’t have to be this way. My colleagues that have switched to Apple Silicon laptops are sometimes surprised to hear the fan on their laptop because it’s a genuinely rare occurrence for them. Most of the time it just sits there doing nothing, and when it does come on, it’s whisper-quiet. And to top it off, some models, such as the Macbook Air series, are completely fanless. Meanwhile, those colleagues that run Lenovo ThinkPads with Ryzen 5000 and 7000 series APU-s (that includes me) have audible fans and at the same time the build times for the big Java monolith that we maintain are significantly slower (~15%) compared to the fan-equipped MacBooks.2 We can fix this, if we really wanted to. As a first step, you can change to a power saving mode on your current laptop. This will likely result in your CPU and GPU running more efficiently, which also helps avoid turning the cooling fan on. You will have to sacrifice some performance as a result of this change, which will not be a worthwhile trade-off for everyone. If you are OK with risking damaging your hardware, you can also play around with setting your own fan curve. The CPU and GPU throttling technology is quite advanced nowadays, so you will likely be fine in this area, but other components in the laptop, such as the battery, may not be very happy with higher temperatures. After doing all that, the next step is to avoid buying a laptop that abuses your sense of hearing. That’s the only signal that we can send to manufacturers that they will actually listen to. Money speaks louder than words. What alternative options do we have? Well, there are the Apple Silicon MacBooks, and, uhh, that one ThinkPad with an ARM CPU, and a bunch of Chromebooks, and a few Windows tablets I guess. I’ll be honest, I have not kept a keen eye on recent developments, but a quick search online for fanless laptops pretty much looks as I described. Laptops that you’d actually want to get work done on are completely missing from that list, unless you like Apple.3 In a corporate environment the choice of laptop might not be fully up to you, but you can do your best to influence the decision-makers. There’s one more alternative: ask your software vendor to not write shoddily thrown together software that performs like shit. Making a doctor appointment should not make my cooling fan go crazy. Not only is slow and inefficient software discriminatory towards those that cannot afford decent computer hardware, it’s also directly contributing to the growing e-waste generation problem by continuously raising the minimum hardware requirements for the software that we rely on every day. Written on a Lenovo ThinkPad X395 that just won’t stop heating up and making annoying fan noises. passive vs active cooling? More like passive vs annoying cooling. ↩︎ I dream of a day where Asahi Linux runs perfectly on an Apple Silicon MacBook. It’s not production ready right now, but the developers have done an amazing job so far! ↩︎ I like the hardware that Apple produces, it’s the operating system that I heavily dislike. ↩︎

a month ago 24 votes
Home is where the home server is

I moved recently, and so did my home server. You might have noticed it due to the downtime. This time I have built a dedicated shelf for it, which allows for more flexibility and room for additional expensive ideas. The internet connection is a fiber line, which is fantastic for a place that’s generally considered to be in the countryside. I had to hire a guy at the last place in Tallinn (capital of Estonia) to pull a fiber line from the basement to the apartment, with my own money, so I’m very happy that I don’t have to do it here. And yes, the ThinkPad T430 is still a solid home server. I had an issue with my battery calibration script resulting in the machine being turned off, but I fixed it by disabling it, at the cost of the battery probably dying soon. Seems like a tlp and/or Linux kernel issue that has surfaced recently, as it also happened on a different ThinkPad laptop when I last tried it. I can’t really remove the battery, because the “power on with AC attach” setting only works when the battery is connected and charged. The server/wardrobe/closet room is slightly chillier compared to the rest of the environment, meaning that the temperatures are also slightly lower. I also have an option to do some crazy ventilation experiments in the winter, but that will have to wait for a bit, mainly because it’s spring. I’m genuinely surprised that the Wi-Fi 5 signal is coming through the closet quite adequately, with the whole apartment being covered with at least 50 Mbit/s speeds, and over 300 Mbit/s when near the closet, which is about the maximum speed that I can achieve from the access point in ideal conditions.

a month ago 33 votes
The coffee machine ran out of memory

After looking into an incident involving Kubernetes nodes running out of memory, I took a trip to the office kitchen to take a break and get a cup of the good stuff. My teammate got their drink first, and then it was my turn. Why is there a Windows 98 themed pop-up on the screen? I wanted to get my coffee, so I tapped on the small OK button. That may have forced the poor coffee machine to start swapping, for which I felt a little bit guilty. The UI was catching up with previous animations, and I got to the drink selection. None of the buttons worked. I reckon something critical crashed in the background. After looking into an incident involving a coffee machine running out of memory, I took a trip to the other office kitchen to take a break and get a cup of the good stuff. That one was fine. Guess it ran on something else than Java. laugh_track.mp3

2 months ago 27 votes

More in technology

Refurb weekend: Gremlin Blasto arcade board

totally unreasonable price for a completely untested item, as-was, no returns, with no power supply, no wiring harness and no auxiliary daughterboards. At the end of this article, we'll have it fully playable and wired up to a standard ATX power supply, a composite monitor and off-the-shelf Atari joysticks, and because this board was used for other related games from that era, the process should work with only minor changes on other contemporary Gremlin arcade classics like Blockade, Hustle and Comotion [sic]. It's time for a Refurb Weekend. a July 1982 San Diego Reader article, the locally famous alternative paper I always snitched a copy of when I was downtown, and of which I found a marginally better copy to make these scans. There's also an exceptional multipart history of Gremlin you can read but for now we'll just hit the highlights as they pertain to today's project. ported to V1 Unix and has a simpler three-digit variant Bagels which was even ported to the KIM-1. Unfortunately his friends didn't have minicomputers of their own, so Hauck painstakingly put together a complete re-creation from discrete logic so they could play too, later licensed to Milton Bradley as their COMP IV handheld. Hauck had also been experimenting with processor-controlled video games, developing a simple homebrew unit based around the then-new Intel 8080 CPU that could connect to his television set and play blackjack. Fogleman met Hauck by chance at a component vendor's office and hired him on to enhance the wall game line, but Hauck persisted in his experiments, and additionally presented Fogleman with a new and different machine: a two-player game played with buttons on a video TV display, where each player left a boxy solid trail in an attempt to crowd out the other. To run the fast action on its relatively slow ~2MHz CPU and small amount of RAM, a character generator circuit made from logic chips painted a 256x224 display from 32 8x8 tiles in ROM specified by a 32x28 screen matrix, allowing for more sophisticated shapes and relieving the processor of having to draw the screen itself. (Does this sound like an early 8-bit computer? Hold that thought.) patent application was too late and too slow to stop the ripoffs. (For the record, Atari programmer Dennis Koble was adamant he didn't steal the idea from Gremlin, saying he had seen similar "snake" games on CompuServe and ARPANET, but Nolan Bushnell nevertheless later offered Gremlin $100,000 in "consolation" which the company refused.) Meanwhile, Blockade orders evaporated and Gremlin's attempts to ramp up production couldn't save it, leaving the company with thousands of unused circuit boards, game cabinets and video monitors. While lawsuits against the copycats slowly lumbered forward, Hauck decided to reprogram the existing Blockade hardware to play new games, starting with converting the Comotion board into Hustle in 1977 where players could also nab targets for additional points. The company ensured they had a thousand units ready to ship before even announcing it and sales were enough to recoup at least some of the lost investment. Hauck subsequently created a reworked version of the board with the same CPU for the more advanced game Depthcharge, initially testing poorly with players until the controls were simplified. This game was licensed to Taito as Sub Hunter and the board reworked again for the target shooter Safari, also in 1977, and also licensed by Taito. For 1978, Gremlin made one last release using the Hustle-Comotion board. This game was Blasto. present world record is 8,730), but in two player mode the players can also shoot each other for an even bigger point award. This means two-player games rapidly turn into active hunts, with a smaller bonus awarded to a player as well if the other gets nailed by a mine. shown above with a screenshot of the interactive on-board assembler. Noval also produced an education-targeted system called the Telemath, based on the 760 hardware, which was briefly deployed in a few San Diego Unified elementary schools. Alas, they were long gone before we arrived. Industry observers were impressed by the specs and baffled by the desk. Although the base price of $2995 [about $16,300] was quite reasonable considering its capabilities, you couldn't buy it without its hulking enclosure, which made it a home computer only to the sort of people who would buy a home PDP-8. (Raises hand.) Later upgrades with a Z80 and a full 32K didn't make it any more attractive to buyers and Noval barely sold about a dozen. Some of the rest remained at Gremlin as development systems (since they practically were already), and an intact upgraded unit with aftermarket floppy drives lives at the Computer History Museum. The failure of Noval didn't kill Gremlin outright, but Fogleman was concerned the company lacked sufficient capital to compete more strongly in the rapidly expanding video game market, and Noval didn't provide it. With wall game sales fading fast and cash flow crunched, the company was slowly approaching bankruptcy by the time Blasto hit arcades. At the same time, Sega Enterprises, Inc., then owned by conglomerate Gulf + Western (who also then owned Paramount Pictures), was looking for a quick way to revive its failing North American division which was only surviving on the strength of its aggressively promoted mall arcades. Sega needed development resources to bring out new games States-side, and Gremlin needed money. In September 1978 Fogleman agreed to make Gremlin a Sega subsidiary in return for an undisclosed number of shares, and became a vice chairman. Sega was willing to do just about anything to achieve supremacy on this side of the Pacific. In addition to infusing cash into Gremlin to make new games (as Gremlin/Sega) and distribute others from their Japanese peers and partners (as Sega/Gremlin), Sega also perceived a market opportunity in licensing arcade ports to the growing home computer segment. Texas Instruments' 99/4 had just hit the market in 1979 to howls there was hardly any software, and their close partner Milton Bradley was looking for marketable concepts for cartridge games. Blasto had simple fast action and a good name in the arcades, required only character graphics (well within the 9918 video chip's capabilities) and worked for both one or two players, and Sega had no problem blessing a home port of an older property for cheap. Milton Bradley picked up the license to Hustle as well. Bob Harris for completion, and TI house programmer Kevin Kenney wrote some additional features. 1 to 40 (obviously some thought was given to using the same PCB as much as possible). The power header is also a 10-pin block and the audio and video headers are 4-pin. Oddly, the manual doesn't say anywhere what the measurements are, so I checked them with calipers and got a pitch of around 0.15", which sounds very much like a common 0.156" header. I ordered a small pack of those as an experiment. 0002 because of the control changes: if you have an 814-0001, then you have a prototype. The MAME driver makes reference to an Amutech Mine Sweeper which is a direct and compatible ripoff of this board — despite the game type, it's not based on Depthcharge.) listed with the part numbers for the cocktail, but the ROM contents expected in the hashes actually correspond to the upright. Bipolar ROMs and PROMs are, as the name suggests, built with NPN bipolar junction transistors instead of today's far more common MOSFETs ("MOS transistors"). This makes them lower density but also faster: these particular bipolar PROMs have access times of 55-60ns as opposed to EPROMs or flash ROMs of similar capacity which may be multiple times slower depending on the chip and process. For many applications this doesn't matter much, but in some tightly-timed systems the speed difference can make it difficult to replace bipolar PROMs with more convenient EPROMs, and most modern-day chip programmers can't generate the higher voltage needed to program them (you're basically blowing a whole bunch of microscopic Nichrome metal fuses). Although modern CMOS PROMs are available at comparable speeds, bipolars were once very common, including in military environments where they could be manufactured to tolerate unusually harsh operating conditions. The incomparable Ken Shirriff has a die photo and article on the MMI 5300, an open-collector chip which is one of the military-spec parts from this line. Model 745 KSR and bubble memory Model 763 ASR, use AMD 8080s! The Intel 8080A is a refined version of the original Intel 8080 that works properly with more standard TTL devices (the original could only handle low-power TTL); the "NL" tag is TI's designation for a plastic regular-duty DIP. Its clock source is a 20.79MHz crystal at Y1 which is divided down by ten to yield the nominal clock rate of 2.079MHz, slightly above its maximum rating of 2MHz but stable enough at that speed. The later Intel 8080A-1 could be clocked up to 3.125MHz and of course the successor Intel 8085 and Zilog Z80 processors could run faster still. An interesting absence on this board is an Intel 8224 or equivalent to generate the 8080A's two-phase clock: that's done directly off the crystal oscillator with discrete logic, an elegant (and likely cheaper) design by Hauck. The video output also uses the same crystal. Next to the CPU are pads for the RAM chips. You saw six of them in the last picture under the second character ROM (316-0100M), all 2102 (1Kbit) static RAM. These were the chips I was most expecting to fail, having seen bad SRAM in other systems like my KIM-1. The ones here are 450ns Fairchild 21021 SRAMs in the 21021PC plastic case and "commercial" temperature range, and six of them adds up to 768 bytes of memory. NOS examples and equivalents are fortunately not difficult to find. Closer to the CPU in this picture, however, are two more RAM chip pads that are empty except for tiny factory-installed jumpers. On the Hustle and Blasto boards (both), they remain otherwise unpopulated, and there is an additional jumper between E4 and E5 also visible in the last picture. The Comotion board, however, has an additional 256 bytes of RAM here (as two more 1024x1 SRAMs). On that board these pads have RAM, there are no jumpers on the pads, and the jumper is now between E3 (ground) and E5. This jumper is also on Blockade, even though it has only five 2102s and three dummy jumpers on the other pads. That said, the games don't seem to care how much RAM is present as long as the minimum is: the current MAME driver gives all of them the full 1K. this 8080 system which uses a regulator). Tracing the schematic out further, the -12V line is also used with the +5V and +12V lines to run the video circuit. These are all part of the 10-pin power header. almost this exact sequence of voltages? An AT power supply connector! If we're clever about how we put the two halves on, we can get nearly the right lines in the right places. The six-pin AT P9 connector reversed is +5V, +5V, +5V, -5V, ground, ground, so we can cut the -5V to be the key. The six-pin AT P8 connector not reversed is power-good, +5V (or NC), +12V, -12V, ground, ground, so we cut the +5V to be the key, and cut the power-good line and one of the dangling grounds and wire ground to the power-good pin. Fortunately I had a couple spare AT-to-ATX converter cables from when we redid the AT power supply on the Alpha Micro Eagle 300. connectors since we're going to modify them anyway. A quick couple drops of light-cured cyanoacrylate into the key hole ... Something's alive! An LED glows! Time now for the video connector to see if we can get a picture! a nice 6502 reset circuit). The board does have its own reset circuit, of a sort. You'll notice here that the coin start is wired to the same line, and the manual even makes reference to this ("The circuitry in this game has been arranged so that the insertion of a quarter through the coin mechanism will reset the restart [sic] in the system. This clears up temporary problems caused by power line disturbances, static, etc."). We'll of course be dealing with the coin mechanism a little later, but that doesn't solve the problem of bringing the machine into the attract mode when powered on. I also have doubts that people would have blithely put coins into a machine that was obviously on the fritz. pair is up and down, or left and right, but not which one is exactly which because that depends on the joystick construction. We'll come back to this. Enterprises) to emphasize the brand name more strongly. The company entered a rapid decline with the video game crash of 1983 and the manufacturing assets were sold to Bally Midway with certain publishing rights, but the original Gremlin IP and game development teams stayed with Sega Electronics and remained part of Gulf+Western until they were disbanded. The brand is still retained as part of CBS Media Ventures today though modern Paramount Global doesn't currently use the label for its original purpose. In 1987 the old wall game line was briefly reincarnated under license, also called Gremlin Industries and with some former Gremlin employees, but only released a small number of new machines before folding. Meanwhile, Sega Enterprises separated from Gulf+Western in a 1984 management buyout by original founder David Rosen, Japanese executive Hayao Nakayama and their backers. This Sega is what people consider Sega today, now part of Sega Sammy Holdings, and the rights to the original Gremlin games — including Blasto — are under it. Lane Hauck's last recorded game at Gremlin/Sega was the classic Carnival in 1980 (I played this first on the Intellivision). After leaving the company, he held positions at various companies including San Diego-based projector manufacturer Proxima (notoriously later merging with InFocus), Cypress Semiconductor and its AgigA Tech subsidiary (both now part of Infineon), and Maxim Integrated Products (now part of Analog Devices), and works as a consultant today. I'm not done with Blasto. While I still enjoy playing the TI-99/4A port, there are ... improvements to be made, particularly the fact it's single fire, and it was never ported to anything else. I have ideas, I've been working on it off and on for a year or so and all the main gameplay code is written, so I just have to finish the graphics and music. You'll get to play it. And the arcade board? Well, we have a working game and a working harness that I can build off. I need a better sound amplifier, the "boom" circuit deserves a proper subwoofer, and I should fake up a little circuit using the power-good line from the ATX power supply to substitute for the power interrupt board. Most of all, though, we really need to get it a proper display and cabinet. That's naturally going to need a budget rather larger than my typical projects and I'm already saving up for it. Suggestions for a nice upright cab with display, buttons and joysticks that I can rewire — and afford! — are solicited. On both those counts, to be continued.

5 hours ago 1 votes
This machine automatically scans books from cover to cover

Hard data is hard to find, but roughly 100 million books were published prior to the 21st century. Of those, a significant portion were never available in a digital format and haven’t yet been digitized, which means their content is effectively inaccessible to most people today. To bring that content into the digital world, Redditor […] The post This machine automatically scans books from cover to cover appeared first on Arduino Blog.

2 days ago 2 votes
MBP's Visual COBOL

Because Productivity Is The Key To Your Future

4 days ago 4 votes
Arduino Cloud Café: Teach real coding concepts with Arduino AI Assistant

Are you an educator looking to make coding easier and faster to teach?  Join Andrea Richetta, Principal Product Evangelist at Arduino, and Roxana Escobedo, EDU Product Marketing Specialist, for a special Arduino Cloud Café live webinar on July 7th at 5PM CET. You will discover how the new AI Assistant in Arduino Cloud can help […] The post Arduino Cloud Café: Teach real coding concepts with Arduino AI Assistant appeared first on Arduino Blog.

5 days ago 5 votes
Tandy Corporation, Part 4

The Decline and Fall

5 days ago 8 votes