45 45 Squared 10) TREDEGAR SQUARE, E3 Borough of Tower Hamlets, 90m×80m * masterpiece, a quadrangle of unbroken terraces with a fine garden in the centre. You expect this kind of thing in Bloomsbury or Kensington but not tucked off the Mile End Road behind a wall of council flats. * I can't find a precise date for the square being built but it doesn't appear on a map dated 1830 and does appear on a map dated 1831 so you can draw your own conclusions from that. I can however confirm it's definitely Georgian, even given George IV died midway in June 1830, because the subsequent reign of William IV is officially bolted into that architectural definition. Sir Charles Morgan, a Welsh baronet based near Newport whose sidehustle was being MP for Monmouth. In 1824 an Act of Parliament granted him "power to grant building leases of copyhold lands held of the manor of Stepney", i.e. permission to put up dwellings, and these spread inexorably back from the main road. As well as Tredegar Square you'll also find Aberavon Road, Rhondda Grove and Morgan Street in the vicinity, confirming the Welsh association, and they have some pretty stunning old houses too. Two pubs called The Lord Tredegar and the Morgan Arms are close by. Three sides of Tredegar Square look like this, i.e. rather splendid. These are three-storey terraced houses built from plain stock brick, each with a basement, sash windows and a classical doorway accessed up a set of five steps. At least half are as yet undivided into flats, so really quite the family home, and with a price tag currently hovering around the £2m mark. On each side the four central houses are picked out in stucco and the middle two topped by a white gable, adding just a little variation to the frontage. As the heart of the local conservation area the council are fairly strict about what you can and can't add outside, although I see they've turned a blind eye to the large Save our NHS banner tied to the railings on the south side. full-on mansions, this time all stucco and a bit more Belgravia in style. Number 26 is the finest of the lot, indeed Grade II* listed, not just for its "ionic columns in antis under deep cornice" but more specifically for the exceptionally rare painted decoration in its first floor front room, including acanthus motifs, gold stencil frames and floral swags. This particular house last sold for £3.9m, so your best chance of seeing the ornamental goldfish bowl motif is to get invited to a party. I'm unconvinced the bins out front add to the general architectural ambience, but maybe that's because I made the mistake of turning up on collection day. At the northwest corner of the square is a marvellous hexagonal pillar box, although alas it's only a replica rather than proper Victorian. Other peculiarities around the perimeter include classical lampposts, Shell-sponsored charging points and posters advertising 1 hour 1-to-1 boxing training sessions for £35. In the southeast corner is a cul-de-sac, also part of Tredegar Square, which used to continue onto the main Mile End Road before a block of postwar flats sealed it off. A tiny gate leads to 1a Tredegar Square, a screamingly modern house confected inside a former warehouse whose current owners appear to be selling up, enabling a tantalising glimpse inside (ketchup-toned fitted kitchen, distressed dining table, books arranged by colour). garden in the middle. For the first 100 years it was private but residents then came up against the egalitarian politics of the East End and lost. The opening ceremony on 25 April 1931 was performed by no less a figure than Prime Minister Clement Attlee, and the local newspaper's report of proceedings referred to the gardens as "London's little lungs". Within a decade the railings had been removed to fund the war effort, then after the war public toilets were added in one corner and a playground in the middle, also since erased. My hunch is that the last significant layout changes were in 1986 because that's the date on the litter bins. And all of this is still here because Stepney council chose to retain these old streets following wartime bombardment whereas Poplar council, two roads distant, plumped for full-on replacement by blocks of flats instead. Local residents and estate agents remain very grateful.

The Hopper fare was introduced in September 2016, allowing bus and tram passengers to take one extra journey for free within 60 minutes of tapping in. Two years later it was extended to allow unlimited journeys within an hour, saving Londoners even more money and enabling some pretty lengthy one-fare journeys. Over a billion Hopper journeys have been taken since... Hopper Challenge 1: Starting from Bus Stop M, escape London by bus for one fare of £1.75 TfL buses cross the Greater London boundary, so all I have to do is catch one before my 60 minutes from Bow elapses. So how to start? Of the buses that serve Bus Stop M the 488 is only going one more stop, the 108 terminates in Stratford and the 276 grinds to a halt around Newham Hospital, so not them. The only solution is to ride a 25 or 425 all the way to Ilford and then pick up a bus to the Home Counties there. 0h00m Board a 25 at Bus Stop M. £1.75 deducted. My hour long-countdown begins. 0h01m We sail through the Bow Roundabout now that the roadworks and lane closures are finished, hurrah. 0h03m We're neck and neck with a 425 along Stratford High Street. At some stops we get all the passengers and it overtakes, then at the next stop it gets all the passengers and we overtake. 0h08m Mass exodus at Stratford bus station. It'd be quicker to get the tube where I'm going, but not cheaper. 0h13m There are multiple sets of roadworks between here and Ilford, mostly related to the addition of segregated cycle lanes. We also have to duck out the way at one point to let an ambulance pass through. If we don't get to Ilford in time I can't use my Hopper and this challenge collapses, plus my journey will cost twice as much. These are not worries you have with a Travelcard. 0h20m We've reached Forest Gate, and so far the 425 driver has overtaken us three times. 0h27m Four times. 0h30m At Little Ilford Lane the traffic's looking really slow going the other way, but we're progressing fine. 0h32m Alight at Ilford Hill and walk round the corner to stop H outside Ilford Station (0h34m) 150 to Chigwell Row, the 167 to Loughton or the 462 to Limes Farm Estate. Grrr, all of these buses are at least 9 minutes away... but in good news that's well inside my time window so I should be fine. However it's worth pointing out that a Hopper connection can totally fail if the second bus doesn't turn up in time, so it's often a fare saving that requires a massive lump of luck on your side. OK, bus two... 0h46m Board a 462 outside Ilford station. £0.00 deducted. After nine years that's my very first Hopper, kerching! 0h56m We've reached the Gants Hill roundabout and are about to head off on a tour of the backstreets. The 462 is a proper twiddlybus, a guided tour of all sorts of Redbridge streets not normally seen. 1h00m As my hour expires I'm on Longwood Gardens near the shops. A magnolia is in full bloom in someone's front garden. 1h02m Technically a Hopper fare is valid for 62 minutes, not 60, in case the clocks on buses aren't quite accurate. But there are no other bus routes here I could switch to anyway. 1h05m Barkingside High Street is busy and takes away most of our passengers. 1h07m Now for a swoosh past Fairlop station and Fairlop Waters Country Park, a scenic diversion the 462's been taking since 2016. 1h14m After threading through Hainault we finally cross the Greater London boundary at the top of Manford Way. The first stop in Essex is just outside Grange Hill station, but I'm continuing to the terminus for extra value for money. 1h21m I've ridden alone with the driver round the loop road on the Limes Farm Estate. The last stop is at Amanda Close, technically only five metres outside the Greater London boundary but that totally counts. I have escaped London using the Hopper fare and spent only £1.75. I'm just 7 miles from home but it's been a 13 mile journey to get here, and I've paid only 14p a mile. Limes Farm is a fascinating place, a large 1960s council estate built for Chigwell Urban District and accessed via a single road. It's both spacious and green but also well past its best, with oddly-shaped flats, one drab Londis and a few intervening attempts at regeneration. It deserves a full blogpost one day but not now, I have one more challenge to tackle on the way home. Hopper Challenge 2: How many buses can I ride in an hour? 24 buses back in 2017 and a City Monitor reporter rode 28, but that was taking advantage of a longer grace period. Originally TfL allowed 70 minutes for one Hopper fare but during the pandemic they cut the buffer from ten minutes to a less generous two so I've only got 62 minutes to try to max out. 0h00m Here we go, a 247 to Barkingside, start the clock. If I stay on to Barkingside High Street there should be lots of buses to switch to. Checks app... bugger, no buses for the next ten minutes. This may be a road served by six different routes but I have unintentionally launched into a bus desert. Well this is rubbish. And I can't go back and start again because my Hopper is valid for another 50 minutes. 0h17m OK, I'm going to catch a 167 in the opposite direction, one stop back north, just to fill the time. 0h24m Sigh, you wait all this time and then three southbound buses come at once. I'll pick the 128 and jump on that for one stop. 0h26m ...and then switch to the 150 that was coming up behind. I would switch again at the next stop but no further buses are due. Let's try again at the Gants Hill roundabout. Sigh, half time and I've only managed four buses so far. 0h37m It's still very gappy, even with eight routes to choose from. So gappy that I've had to catch the next 150 coming along behind. 0h43m Barely quarter of an hour left so I really need this 396. Don't look at me strange when I ding the bell after one stop. 0h44m This is more like it, straight onto the 128 behind. 0h46m And then a 462. Why wasn't I having this much luck earlier? 0h51m And for the last stop into Ilford here's a 179. That's nine buses so far, and four in the last ten minutes. I have time to catch one more and I need it to be a 25 or 425 that'll take me home. 0h55m Come on come on. 0h56m Please turn up before I hit the hour. 0h57m Eek this is getting close. 0h58m Oh thank goodness, a 25 and just in time. It means I managed 10 buses in the hour, which isn't bad after my disastrous opening 20 minutes. 1h01m It turns out I could have sneaked in an extra W19 just before my 62 minutes was up, but I wouldn't have known that for sure at the last stop so it wasn't worth the risk. 1h41m And I'm finally back at Bow Church where I can hop off for a cup of tea. 2h18m The 25 I was on finally pulls in at Holborn Viaduct. This means I could have enjoyed a 2¼hr journey all the way from the outskirts to the City for £1.75, confirming the Hopper's sometimes exceptional value. The Central line does this in 30% of the time but at twice the price. In conclusion I have now used the Hopper and managed to get all the way from Bow to Essex on a single fare. I also used a Hopper to get home and rode ten buses in the process, which isn't a record but is still a very decent bit of card-bashing. If I'd done this seven years ago it would have been proper bloggage but instead it's old news, sorry. And never again.

Bromley-by-Bow has a new tower block and unusually it's not along the A12 or the River Lea, it's in the historic part. It replaces a drab council block which the local housing association was keen to wipe away, and rightly so, as part of a long-term project to replace Stroudley Walk with something better. I first blogged about those plans 11 years ago, that's how long-term it is. Warren House in September 2021, which took an age, and building its 24 storey replacement seems to have taken even longer. But it now has almost all its cladding in place, its faux brick panels making it look like every other newbuild block, and the resultant tower looms unfamiliarly over medieval Bow in an architecturally vacuous way. plan is that the rest of Stroudley Walk has been replaced by lower-rise blocks of affordable housing to help ease local pressures, while the new tower is being flogged off to well-off incomers to help pay for it. It's a shame the overall scheme only delivers 42% affordable housing but that's the modern reality, indeed it's a significantly better percentage than some. The new development is called Upper East, which is a perfect example of a meaningless name which could have been pumped from a buzzword generator. The development's vision is even worse: "Celebrating yesterday, building community, defining tomorrow". Not only is it meaningless but it's also downright lying, there being bugger all "yesterday" being celebrated here whatsoever. Let's see what other bolx the brochure can offer... • a dynamic new neighbourhood in the heart of East London (bolx) experience elevated living (bolx) exceptional development (bolx) designed for modern living (bolx) the perfect location for relaxation and socialising (bolx) ...and that's just on page 3. • Perfectly positioned between Stratford, Canary Wharf and The City (bolx) With Hackney Wick, Shoreditch, and Brick Lane just moments away (utter bolx) Grove Hall Park, a serene greenspace with a playground and walled memorial garden, is perfect for a little walk on a lazy Sunday or a place to sit with friends in the summer months (haha lol bolx) Upper East offers exceptional convenience for professionals, with Canary Wharf and The City just a short commute away (yeah right, bankers welcome) Peak bolx is probably the claim that "Living at Upper East puts you at the centre of Bow’s vibrant culinary scene." I do like the area but never in a million years would I describe its cafes and restaurants as "a diverse array of dining options that cater to every taste", indeed foodwise E3 bats well below the London average. I grant that shopping and culture are easily accessible, what with everything Westfield and the Olympic Park have to offer, and that transport connections are pretty decent. But a lot of the supposedly nearby treats aren't especially nearby or indeed treats, more a desperate selection compiled by an intern attempting to upsell a skyhutch to an ignoramus. "London is a prime destination for students seeking top-tier education". The hope is that some rich parent will gift their foreign student a serviced bolthole during their studies, indeed I see sales for Upper East opened in Malaysia long before they opened here. In a capital city with a huge housing problem it seems criminal to be flogging flats abroad rather than targeting Britons, and an enormous and wasteful palaver to be creating stacks of luxury boltholes just to get 115 affordable flats added to our housing stock. Upper East is nothing new, merely new for round here. But it will stand prominently on Bow's skyline forever as a reminder that the high life is now only for those who can look down on the rest of us.

The major roadworks at the Bow Roundabout are complete and traffic is flowing freely again. Hoo-bloody-rah. It took longer than strictly necessary for all the cones to be removed. They lingered mysteriously on a couple of arms of the roundabout, so for example traffic on Bow Road was still being unnecessarily funnelled into one lane even when traffic arriving from the A12 had the full two lanes available. But with all the cones gone six months of disruption have finally ended, so if traffic snarls up now it's because of rush hours and normal congestion rather than anything self-imposed. Also when I said the roadworks were complete I was lying, they're still working on the expansion joints. This is because the Bow Interchange isn't just a roundabout/flyover/underpass combo, it's also a bridge over the River Lea. The current bridge is now 55 years old so it made sense to use this opportunity to give the metal joints a good once-over, and for practical reasons most of that renovation is being done at the end of the works. A team from a company called BridgeCare turned up with two huge vehicles called Bridge Expansion Joint Units and used shovels, blowtorches and specialist equipment along the length of a curved groove, measuring out the gaps between the two joints with wooden blocks. Previous updates: #0 #1 #2 #3 #4 #5 #6 #7 #8 #9 #10 #11 #12 #13 #14 #15 #16 #17 #18