More from The Forney Flyer
I've really been enjoying being busy helping with the MAF flight operations in Liberia. Shortly after I landed at a remote location one day, our other aircraft, piloted by Ulrich Müeller, also landed (below) at the same airstrip. I was about to load up two medical patients into my aircraft. But since Uli had just arrived, he gratefully offered to help with the loading, so that I could take some photos. Don't worry... we had previously already acquired permissions from all involved to be photographed. Personally I do not like to 'stage' photos, and I don't like to ask people to slow down, or pose, or whatever. It just feels fake. So if I'm photographing, I like to do my best to blend into the background, or at least out of the way, and then just shoot whatever is truly happening, as it happens in real time. Practically speaking, that means that it's often very difficult or impossible for me to get good photos of the activities around a plane, when I'm the only pilot--because my first priority is of course always the safety and security of the plane/flight. So it's a rare but great opportunity when I have the chance to photograph another one of our pilots in action. And again, just in case you might think it would be awkward for a patient, or medical personnel to be photographed, I'll put your mind at ease by saying that we always explain that MAF is a not-for-profit mission, and there are many people who pray and give to help make these flights possible. It is important that we can also share with those folks how the aircraft are being used to bless people in remote locations. And most people are very understanding of that, and very thankful for the help, and very happy to be in the photographs. Even-so, I always try to be respectful and discreet in the way I photograph or show people (especially patients) and of course, that we always do have their permission first. So don't worry. ;-) There was an additional patient, already loaded, and seated in front of the stretcher patient. Here, Uli is carefully strapping in the 2nd patient for the 1.5 hour flight that I would make to take both patients and the medical personnel accompanying them, to the capital city for treatment. Upon landing in Monrovia, I was met and assisted, as usual, by the very capable MAF team. Most patients are very happy for us to pray with/for them, which we did both before and after this flight. Here, the serving MAF country director, Leon Prinsloo, prays with the two medical patients after they have been loaded into the ambulance, and before they go to the hospital. It's worth noting that I had previously asked some of the local people in the remote town where I had picked up these two patients, "how long would it take to drive from there to Monrovia?" They laughed at the question and told me that it is not even possible to do that--not at this time of year anyway--not during the rainy season. They said that sometimes it might be possible, but it would be many days of tough travel, but right now they said the jungle roads are totally impassible. And it's also worth noting that both of these patients were actually in quite serious condition. I was very glad that MAF was able to provide help to transport them! Switching gears... here is a shot of downtown Monrovia, the capital city of Liberia. And here's a shot from just nearby the above one, which shows markets along the roads where people are buying and selling stuff. This is not at all an unusual scene on departure from our 'home' airport here. The rainy season offers some challenging flying! But it has the potential to look like this!... although, in the past 5 weeks of flying here, I've only had about 2 days like this. Here's a few more shots from the air showing the remote and rugged terrain over which we fly... And I'll end with a nice sunset after the rains cleared out a few nights ago...
A few weeks ago I was asked to pop over to Liberia (on the west coast of Africa) to help with their flying for six weeks. Our Liberia program has been short on pilots and very busy with flying, so of course I was happy to help! Above is a shot of a bunch of Covid vaccines and other medicines and medical supplies that I delivered to a remote hospital in a town at the very southeastern tip of Liberia. Below I'm unloading cargo before picking up two serious medical patients (you can see the stretcher behind me.) This is one of the airstrips that we frequently fly to... as you can see it is very close to the ocean. There are a number of towns/villages situated just along the coast, but frankly I've seen virtually no roads along the coast. Occasionally, near a town I'll see a few muddy narrow 'roads' branching out a few miles from the town, but then they seem to vanish. So, for the most part it's just rugged coastline that merges into jungle. And I've also seen no large ships, though I'm sure they must come to/from the capital city from time to time. But up and down the coast I've seen nothing other than a few small canoes and very small wooden boats. And if you pan the camera just a few miles in from the coast, then it's nothing but dense, sopping wet jungle. In short, it's definitely a place with vast geological barriers where the need for the plane is obvious! Now that I've shown you the 'nice' shots of what it can look like when the sun is shining (which in my short time here seems to almost never happen) now let me show you what it usually looks like... Actually, even the above two shots are not really accurate, because most of the time I can't see the ground at all once I'm at an IFR (Instrument Flight Rules) altitude. It's rainy season here right now and it's an understatement to say that it rains a lot. I've lived and flown/worked in a lot of places around the world, but I've never seen a place that can put out so much relentless, pounding rain day after day after day, most of which is not even tied to thunderstorms. It's just sopping wet atmospheric stuff. Incidentally, it seems that this is where the brewing begins for those storms that build into monster hurricanes that cross the Atlantic and eventually slam into the Americas this time of year. Fun fact: Monrovia (where MAF Liberia is based) is the wettest capital city in the world! They apparently get about 15 feet of rain a year, and I believe it! It's obviously challenging weather to fly in, but frankly, I've been enjoying it. It reminds me a bit of some of the flying I used to do in Indonesia. I've definitely done quite a number of low-pass runway inspections before landing here, just to make sure of the condition of the surface--b/c of all the mud/rain. But if you maintain margins and are careful, it can still be done safely in the rain. And a little rain never hurt anyone, right? I've enjoyed seeing, and being a part of, the wide variety of strategic flights that MAF does here--from 'traditional' mission flying to critical medical transport flights, to humanitarian and community development etc. This past week I was the only MAF pilot in the country so I was flying every day and really enjoying it. Earlier this week Henk Jan (below, right) who is the MAF-International Africa Regional Director, dropped in for a two-day program visit. He has an extensive and distinguished background/career in aviation, including (but not limited to) many years in MAF. I was privileged to have him join me for a flight interior, and I was glad that the weather cooperated that day--in fact it was the nicest day, by far, since I've been here. (Below, Henk Jan talks to missionary, Kim Smith, about his ministry while I was waiting for my return load/passengers back to Monrovia.) One rare evening when the sun popped out for a few minutes before it set, I walked down the beach. No, I haven't jumped in yet, but I'm guessing I will before I leave in a month. That said, because of the nearly constant storms, the surf is really rough, and there are also many hidden rocks in the surf, and I'm told there are also strong undertows and rip currents in this area. Plus, the water is muddy brown and full of seaweed because of the winds/storms. So I need to wait for the right place/time so that I don't become shark or shrimp food.
A few weeks ago we (fellow MAF pilot Andrew and I) landed at Amudat airstrip for the first time in a very long time (below). Over the past year and a half quite a few of the upcountry airstrips in Uganda (especially in Karamoja) deteriorated so badly that we had to stop using them. There were several contributing factors, mostly related to the Covid lockdown and lack of flying for so long, but also due to various organizations and users being short of staff and funding. The next two photos show the Amudat runway from the air (from both directions) during the time that it was closed. It actually got quite a bit worse than this later on, as these were taken soon after it was closed. Our sending church in Oregon gave a very generous gift to help facilitate the reopening of several of the closed airstrips. MAF sent a work team to oversee the project in Amudat. Here is a photo of the cleaned/repaired/improved airstrip, just before we landed there a few weeks ago. Here's a shot of Andrew and I with the MAF guys that oversaw the project. They also hired many locals to help with the work (which was also a great way to help the people during these very difficult times when it is SO hard for them to find a source of income), and purchased some tools that will be used for continued upkeep of the strip. Anytime a plane lands, especially after it's been a long time, people will seemingly suddenly appear out of nowhere to watch. This time was no exception. Here's some random shots from the air that I've taken in the past month or so. This first one captures sort of the classic northern Karamoja. This is the very point where the Nile leaves Uganda and enters South Sudan. In this photo the water is flowing from the lower left corner to the bend on the right, and then continuing up towards the upper left corner, on its way South to North. The brown (left) side of the river is South Sudan, and the green (right) side of the photo is Uganda. Just behind/beyond the bend is the town of Nimule, South Sudan. It might strike you as odd that the brown and green are so distinct. It is not always like that. And it's certainly not normally that abrupt of a change between the two countries. It's true that parts of South Sudan can be much dryer than Uganda, but in this region it is generally a much more gradual transition. The reason it's like this here, in this photo, is because the Uganda side is very flat and swampy, hence the greenery, whereas the South Sudan side is the higher ground, and thus dryer, when this photo was taken. But for much of the year both sides are equally green. Speaking of green, this was a very odd (algae?) green floating mass of something that was on top of the Lake Victoria water for several weeks, not far from the shore. I have no idea exactly what it was, or what caused it, but it was almost an iridescent green. It's gone now.
Well, it's been forever since I've posted and I won't even begin to make excuses. But before I try to start posting stuff from East Africa, I figured I'd finish that series I had started over a year ago about Way Back When we used to live just north of the Arctic Circle in Alaska. In the small village where we lived, subsistence living was the way of life. There was a small store in the village, but it had very limited items--canned or pre-packaged stuff that had no shelf life, or at least a very long shelf life. There was rarely fresh produce available, or anything like fresh milk or stuff like that. And there was no fresh meat. Instead, we had to go find our own meat to eat. I realize that there are lots of strong opinions out there regarding hunting, but let me just say this--what I'm talking about in this village was not 'trophy hunting'. This was hunting for food. Below, a shot of me, on my snow machine, with my rifle, far out in the wilderness. During the very short summer, folks stocked up on salmon, cleaning and drying/smoking it to put away in large quantities for the long winter. We were a very, very long way from the ocean, so the salmon were extremely tired by the time they got to us. What that means is that they were not as fat/rich/tasty as the salmon down on the Yukon, or other places closer to the sea, so often these salmon became the main source of food for the dog teams that require a lot of protein throughout the winter. Then, folks in our village would often trade other types of meat that we could get more easily, with friends/relatives further down river, or out near the coast, and in exchange they would be given the nice, fat salmon for eating. In the winter I helped some men build a fish trap that was frozen into the river ice. Then we would go check it at least once (or often twice) a day and almost without fail we'd find a good number of large fish in there. Depending on how cold the temperatures were, we would have to chip away several inches to even a foot of ice from the hole, before we could peer into the fast moving water. And yes, that is me gaffing the fish, and no, it is not in the middle of the night--it's just dark most of the time there in the middle of winter since it's so far north. A very big source of food there was moose. It basically served as the 'beef' of the far north. And caribou was a real tasty treat when they came through the area. We also hunted bear (which is what we are doing below)... And trapped beaver (below) and other fur animals. The folks would sell the furs and/or tan the hides and prepare the furs themselves, which they would then turn into the best winter clothing, mittens, mukluks, etc. Even though it was extremely cold, and often dark, I was blessed to often be out in very remote, rugged and beautiful wilderness, which had an astounding surreal beauty. In the far distance (in the picture below) you can see some snowcapped mountains. Those are the foothills the to Brooks Mountain Range and the Gates of the Arctic National Park... the most remote National Park in the U.S. Well, that finally concludes my "Way Back When" series. Now I will try to post some much more current stuff soon...
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53 acres of waterside walks, new restaurants, world-class leisure facilities and a packed calendar of events.
One Stop Beyond: Purfleet In this series I'm taking the train one stop beyond the Greater London boundary, getting off and seeing what's there. Today that means Purfleet, one stop beyond Rainham on c2c trains to Grays. Officially the town is Purfleet-on-Thames, and has been since 2020 when Thurrock councillors got unanimously overexcited, hoping they'd become a "destination of choice". This will never happen, as any visit to the estuarine outpost will confirm, but there are occasional bright spots amongst the patchwork of grey. Magazine number 5 survives beside the promenade, since transformed into the Purfleet Garrison Heritage and Military Centre. It only opens Wednesdays, Thursdays and Sundays so I still haven't been inside, but I got some idea from the row of a dozen silhouetted soldiers looiking down from the promenade, also the Gurkha war memorial alongside which manages to look both enormously respectful and like it was supplied by a corner shop that sells trophies. The rest of the barracks is long gone, bar a rather splendid gatehouse that now graces the start of a cul-de-sac of bungalows. The site is now a postwar housing estate with a Costcutter at its heart, while the quarry opposite is now a separate whorl of roads with stacked flats and a single point of access. As London commuter boltholes go, it's on the cheaper side. Behind all this is Tank Hill Road, a surprising climb with an enormous fence along one side screening a sheer drop over chalk cliffs and a view of gabled roofs, treetops and Kent. Tank Lane continues high above the railway, the sole connection to an entirely separate chunk of Purfleet cut off behind the bypass. Here lurks the Circus Tavern, long-time venue of the PDC World Darts Championship (1994-2007), a building with all the outdated allure of an Essex car showroom. For natural delights find the footbridge across the mouth of the Mardyke, now bedecked with a concrete hoop bearing a million year timeline of the local area inscribed on the inside. I'm not sure I would have included "1950 - Purfleet identified as a possible Cold War A-Bomb target by the Ministry of Food" amongst the chronological highlights. The bridge leads to Rainham Marshes and a long sea wall where local residents exercise their thuggy dogs. The majority of the marshes is owned by the RSPB whose timber visitor centre stands sentinel at the top of a further ramp. It won architectural prizes in 2006 but looks somewhat shabby today, the interior in particular, because insufficient admissions didn't pay for upkeep. Since 2023 it's been free to get in, if not to park, and a single member of staff oversees the empty viewing platform beside the abandoned cafe. I went for the full 2½ mile circuit through woodland, across boardwalks and around reedy scrape. Only occasionally does the path nudge up against the water, hence the three hides are the best place to scrutinise various kinds of waterfowl, although I'm pretty sure I spotted a little egret strutting its stuff from just behind the electric fence. At more migratory times of year, the marshes are essentially an airport. At one point you get up close to a fizzy pylon, elsewhere (at Shooting Butts) a former rifle range and nearer the Thames a one-way turnstile used for after hours egress. It is a glorious loop, at its furthest point just 200m from the boundary of Greater London, and an ideal visit for both bird-spotters and train-spotters as High Speed 1 swooshes by on a viaduct along one edge. chapter 2. "At Purfleet, on a byroad, I came across just such a place as seemed to be required, and where was displayed a dilapidated notice that the place was for sale. It was surrounded by a high wall, of ancient structure, built of heavy stones, and has not been repaired for a large number of years. The closed gates are of heavy old oak and iron, all eaten with rust. The estate is called Carfax, no doubt a corruption of the old Quatre Face, as the house is four sided, agreeing with the cardinal points of the compass." Many details are given, alas sufficient to confirm that the house never existed in real life. However it's thought Bram Stoker must have visited, Purfleet being a favoured day-trip for train-going Victorian Londoners who enjoyed climbing Beacon Hill, outdoor bathing and whitebait suppers. None of this is currently available. A green plaque on the High Street installed by Thurrock Heritage claims Carfax was based on Purfleet House, long demolished and replaced by St Stephen's Church, but that's more a big hall and not worth a look either. Across the road The Royal Hotel looks in an even more sorry state, surrounded by scaffolding and with its upper cladding missing, so may no longer be the ideal spot for those completing the final section of the London Loop to celebrate with a beer and a bite. The most surprising arrival in modern Purfleet is the Royal Opera House. In 2015 they opened a campus on a ridge facing the river at High House Production Park, the centrepiece being a huge barrel-roofed Production Workshop where sets and scenery are constructed by local craftspeople and creatives. Alongside are a less radical building used to store over 20000 costumes from the ROH repertory and also The Backstage Centre, a studio where film and TV crews can shoot or rehearse. The site is based round a cluster of listed barns and cottages, appropriately adapted, complete with charming walled gardens where you could sit with a coffee had the courtyard cafe not folded. The contrast to the surrounding landscape is extreme - a few interwar cul-de-sacs, a long Edwardian terrace, a vast Tesco Distribution Centre and endless rumbling trucks. Less than half a mile away is the point where the Queen Elizabeth II Bridge launches across the estuary, its companion tunnel starts to burrow underneath and High Speed 1 threads geometrically between the two. This is prime logistics territory, clogged with warehouses, terminals and other pedestrian-hostile locations, but also no longer technically Purfleet, more West Thurrock. It's also unarguably closer to Chafford Hundred station which is Two Stops Beyond, so I can end my description here and perhaps just recommend the bird reserve instead.
But it's around for less than a week.
This blog has peaked. This blog has peaked. diamond geezer. Since then it's been a mostly upward journey, gaining readers and recognition year on year, and also a growing band of commenters ready to share their thoughts and anecdotes on the matter in hand. I've long been impressed that this blog continues to generate readership and reaction when the wider general direction of travel is decay and silence. 2003 - 250 visitors a day, 3000 comments a year According to my stats packages 2024 was the best year ever for visitors to this blog but 2025 hasn't been as good. Numbers have been in decline since the start of the year, and even the usual post-summer pick-up hasn't happened. Nothing terminal, indeed still frankly miraculous figures by 2015 standards, but a noticeable downward trend all the same. Also I suspect a lot of the supposed increase in recent years has just been bots, crawlers and AI-feeders dropping by to harvest data, and if they're excluded the decline probably started earlier and digs deeper. weekly rail news round-up it'd be even less. My post on ticket offices brought a fair few extra folk here this week, but I wrote far better stuff than that which only already-regular readers will have noticed. The blogosphere/Substack universe is much smaller than it used to be, and most of what remains is more interested in saying "look at me!" than "look at them". Jan 2025 - 19,600 clicks from Google Other social media services have degraded too. My @diamondgzrblog daily tweet used to get 700 views before Elon Musk destroyed Twitter but these days the tumbleweed service barely registers 200 views, and hardly any of them click through anyway. If you're the kindly soul who insists on plugging all my transport posts on Reddit thanks, but hardly anyone notices, let alone comes to read the full story. When writing what I think might be a damned good post I am increasingly aware that only those who already know I exist will ever see it. It's great to have a loyal audience, but I'm only in this privileged position because I got noticed before the mechanism for noticing people collapsed. Dec 2024 - 851 comments There are bloggers out there who'd be thrilled to get 70 comments in a year, let alone 700 in a month, so I'm not complaining about my reduced engagement. But something is discouraging readers from leaving comments as often as they used to, and there may be several factors involved. It might be that the conversation's moved on and now takes place on social media. It might be that bespoke pop-up boxes are too fiddly for my new majority of smartphone readers. It might be that people are reticent to leave a comment for fear of what the reaction might be. It might be I'm writing less interesting subject matter. It might be that commenting is something older people do and I'm not refreshing my audience with younger readers. It might be all sorts of things but it is definitely a thing, whyever it may be. lot of effort into it, but I've always been fundamentally reassured that more people were discovering it with every passing year. Now it seems the direction of travel is gently downward, thankfully from a high level but downward all the same, and will likely continue that way in the coming years. I have no intention of stopping writing just because not quite so many people are reading or leaving comments, but it's increasingly clear that not quite so many are. This blog has peaked.