I have recently returned from an excellent tour of northern Colombia for Quest Nature Tours. This was my fourth time guiding for Quest here, in the birdiest country in the world. Birdiest may be a bold claim, but eBird shows 1,956 species recorded for Colombia, while the Colombian Committee of Ornithological Records lists 1,969 species. Second and third place fall to Peru and Brazil, respectively, though neither country has reached 1,900 species yet. I've spent more time in Colombia than any other Latin American country, and I love coming back for more!  Glaucous Tanager This tour was a short and sweet ten days visiting the Santa Marta mountains and the Caribbean coast in the far northern reaches of Colombia. One advantage of this tour is that it focused on a relatively small geographic area, meaning that we had no internal flights and minimal long drives. If you are going to pick just one area of Colombia to visit, this would be a pretty good one due to the high number of endemic species; that is, species found found just here and nowhere else in the world. The Santa Marta mountains present an interesting study in biogeography as they have been isolated from the main Andean chain for 10-15 million years. Many of the bird species found here (at least 28 species) are endemic to these mountains. A high ratio of endemism is found with its many plants, lizards, frogs, insects, and more.  Vermilion Cardinal (male) Orange-chinned Parakeets In total we found nearly 340 bird species during our tour including a high percentage of the Santa Marta endemics. We also spent some time in the varied habitats along the north coast of Colombia, from the desert scrub of La Guajira to dry tropical forest of Tayrona National Park, from mangrove-lined estuaries filled with flamingos and shorebirds to productive freshwater marshes full of life. And of course there was so much to see besides the birds - we enjoyed endemic primates, a nice array of lizards and frogs, countless butterflies and beetles and abundant plant life. I set up my moth lights in a few montane locations which attracted quite a bounty. All in all it was a fantastic trip.  Scaled Dove Cope's Ameiva (Ameiva bifrontata) Blue Ground-Dove We met up as a group at our hotel during the evening of March 13 for our welcome dinner, and discussed the possibilities of what the next week and a half would bring. It was good to reconnect with Cristian Daza who was to be our local guide for the duration of the trip. I have worked with Cris on numerous occasions in the past and it was wonderful to catch up with him.  Before dawn the next morning we were on our way. Our first stop was a famous birding road called the Kilometre Four Road, just outside of a small village called Palermo.  Russet-throated Puffbird Kilometre Four was a great way to kick off the trip. The habitats here consist of open farmland, stands of woodland, agricultural plots and wetland, and bird diversity is very high. In just a couple of hours we tallied around 90 bird species with our local guide, Omar. Many of them are localized to this region, including Colombian endemics like Turquoise-winged Parrotlet, Chestnut-winged Chachalaca and Sapphire-bellied Hummingbird, as well as other localized species such as Caribbean Hornero, Stripe-backed Wren and Northern Screamer. We also found a Belted Kingfisher here at the southern part of its wintering range. Black-crested Antshrike Chestnut-winged Chachalaca Northern Screamer Cattle Tyrants on a domestic buffalo  Caribbean Hornero Stripe-backed Wren Our next stop was a boardwalk traversing through mangroves at Isla de Salamanca National Park. We improved our views of the localized Sapphire-bellied Hummingbird, and found some other interesting species like Bicolored Conebill, American Pygmy Kingfisher, Golden-green Woodpecker and Red-rumped Woodpecker. Several Prothonotary Warblers were flitting around the mangroves. In just a matter of days they will likely be winging their way north, perhaps as far north as where I live in southern Ontario.  Birding at Isla de Salamanca Sapphire-bellied Hummingbird Golden-green Woodpecker We found a Spectacled Caiman and a Colombian Slider at Isla de Salamanca as well. The latter was a new species for me, so I was pretty happy with that! Butterfly and dragonfly diversity was also relatively high at this site.  Spectacled Caiman (Caiman crocodilus) Colombian Slider (Trachemys callirostris callirostris) Caribbean Yellowface (Neoerythromma cultellatum) Eastern Amberwing (Perithemis tenera) Pin-tailed Pondhawk (Erythemis plebeja) Spot-tailed Dasher (Micrathyria aequalis) By midday we had exhausted our birding options here (it had been a successful morning) and so we drove east to Riohacha, our base for three nights. As we traveled along the coast past the imposing Santa Marta mountains to our south, the forests became noticeably drier and sparser, eventually turning to desert scrub before we reached Riohacha. This is the most arid part of Colombia and it shares many unique species with northern Venezuela. We had two full days to take in the sights and sounds here.  Desert scrub in Camarones  During both days we drove west for half an hour to the village of Camarones, home of the Wayuu people, an indigenous group found in the Guajira peninsula of Colombia and Venezuela. With our local guide Alvaro we got to work finding the special birds of this region. During both days we spent the early morning hours birding the scrub, finding specialties like Tocuyo Sparrow, Chestnut Piculet, Buffy Hummingbird, Orinocan Saltator and a selection of flycatchers.  Orinocan Saltators Calephelis laverna, a type of metalmark butterfly Tocuyo Sparrow Melocactus curvispinus, a type of turk's-cap cactus Double-striped Thick-knee Opuntia caracassana, a type of prickly pear cactus One morning, we visited the property of local birding guide Jose Luis who I first met in 2015 during my inaugural Colombia trip (Jose had guided myself and a few friends in the Camarones area). Now, Jose has established a bird feeding station where the incredible Vermilion Cardinal appears regularly. This is a flagship species of the region and we couldn't have asked for better view of El Rey de la Guajira. Sipping cold drinks in the shade while watching the cardinals and other birds was not a bad way to spend a couple of hours! Vermilion Cardinal (male) Vermilion Cardinal (female) Black-faced Grassquit (male) Black-crested Antshrike (male) Camarones is positioned at the edge of a large wetland that drains into the Caribbean. As you can imagine from the town's name, shrimping is a productive industry here and we made sure to get our fill of camarones al ajillo (garlic shrimp) at local restaurants here. We also went for a boat trip into the mangrove-lined wetland one day. Seeing many hundreds of American Flamingos was a highlight, but I was more excited to see my first Mangrove Rail for Colombia. Of course the heron and shorebird diversity was quite high here as well. Sailing near Camarones American Flamingos American Flamingos Mangrove Rail  We ventured back west towards the Santa Marta mountains, breaking up the drive with a morning spent in the beautiful forests of Tayrona National Park. Tayrona is very close to the mountains and receives more rain than the Camarones area, leading to a much higher forest canopy. Our main target was the critically endangered Blue-billed Curassow. Our local guide Wilson found one for us, but it remained heard-only, unfortunately.  Gray-headed Tanager Fiery Skipper (Hylephila phyleus) Colombian Red Howler Monkey (Alouatta seniculus) Our morning at Tayrona was quite productive. Many of the birds here are shared with Central America and this would be our only chance for them during this trip. We teased out many interesting species including Pale-bellied Hermit, White-necked Puffbird, Military Macaw, Plain-brown Woodcreeper and Lance-tailed Manakin, to name a few. We also had wonderful experiences with Colombian Red Howler Monkeys and the recently-split Santa Marta White-fronted Capuchin, while I had fun chasing down and identifying various lizards and frogs.  Santa Marta White-fronted Capuchin (Cebus malitiosus) Gaige's Rainbow Lizard (Cnemidophorus gaigei) Milk Frog (Trachycephalus macrotis) Gaige's Anole (Anolis gaigei) Argiope submaronica, a type of orbweaver spider Having done quite well in the coastal areas, it was time to trade in our Mercedes Sprinter van for 4x4 Toyota Land Cruisers for four days in the Santa Marta mountains. During our first morning we found ourselves at the Gairama reserve, listening to the last Rufous Nightjar of the night while waiting for dawn to break. The scenery along this road is outstanding and we tallied a number of dry-forest birds here including Black-backed Antshrike, Long-billed Gnatwren, Whooping Motmot and White-bearded Manakin, while we also enjoyed a pair of Military Macaws.  Sunrise birding at Gairama Reserve Astraptes sp., a type of skipper Black-backed Antshrike Ochre-bellied Flycatcher Next on the agenda was breakfast at a little finca further up in the hills beyond Minca. We enjoyed our scrambled eggs, arepas, cheese, fresh fruit and coffee, all while watching an active feeder setup that was attended by Golden-winged Sparrow, Blue-black Grosbeak, Blue Ground-Dove and a plethora of hummingbirds and tanagers. We even had some flyover raptors including Great Black Hawk, Short-tailed Hawk, Zone-tailed Hawk, King Vulture and a distant Black-and-chestnut Eagle.  Brown Violetear Cocoa Woodcreeper Blue-black Grosbeak (pair) Golden-winged Sparrow King Vulture Our first night in the Santa Marta mountains was spent at a little ecolodge called Colores de la Sierra. The birding was quite good here and in a relaxed afternoon we found around 60 species which included Black-headed Tanager, Scaled Piculet, Bran-colored Flycatcher and Pale-breasted Spinetail. The scenic viewpoint with panoramic views was a nice setting for us to go over our bird list, enjoy a few cold beverages, and watch the sunset before listening to a Collared Forest-Falcon and a Tropical Screech-Owl. Life is good.  Doing our species checklist at Colores de la Sierra Bicolored Wren Swallow Tanager (male) Pale-breasted Spinetail Scaled Piculet One of the participants, Reiner and I also set up our insect-attracting lights at Colores de la Sierra and had a decent haul of moths and other insects to photograph. Copaxa multifenestrata, a type of silkworm moth Central American Paper Wasp (Apoica pallens) Dithecodes sp., a type of geometer moth Walker's Moth (Sosxetra grata), a type of cutworm moth Hylesia sp., a type of silkworm moth The next morning we ventured higher into the mountains, into the range of our first Santa Marta endemics. With local guide Jeider, we visited a local coffee farm called Finca Vista Nieves where a feeding station has been established for Black-fronted Wood-Quails. In recent days, a surprise Rufous-necked Wood-Rail has also been attending! This is a rare species that is typically found in coastal mangroves, not secondary forest high up in the mountains, and it was also a new species for both Cris and I. Though the Black-fronted Wood-Quails vocalized quite close to the feeding station, they just wouldn't come in. However, we did have excellent views of the Rufous-necked Wood-Rail and other endemics like Sierra Nevada Brushfinch, Santa Marta Brushfinch and White-lored Warbler, as well as a pair of Rusty-breasted Antpittas.  White-lored Warbler Rusty-breasted Antpitta Sierra Nevada Brushfinch A walk along the edge of the coffee farm produced more endemics - Santa Marta Foliage-gleaner and Antbird - as well as a pair of Groove-billed Toucanets, a Black-and-chestnut Eagle seen well in flight, and a stunning male Rosy Thrush-Tanager. The latter is the only member of its family (Rhodinocichlidae), where its closest living relatives are the longspurs/buntings of Calcariidae.  Santa Marta Foliage-gleaner Groove-billed Toucanet Highland Rubyspot (Hataerina cruentata) Rosy Thrush-Tanager We continued higher into the mountains, making birding stops along the way, until our arrival at the El Dorado Lodge situated at around 2000 m elevation. Upon arrival we were greeted by a pair of White-tipped Quetzals. Stunning birds, and a strong contender for bird of the trip. Santa Marta Blossomcrown El Dorado Lodge White-tipped Quetzal (male) White-tipped Quetzal (male) Anticipation was high the next morning. This would be the day that we explored the San Lorenzo ridge where many of the Santa Marta endemic species can be found. An early wake-up was in order, as the eight-kilometre drive takes just under two hours by 4x4. But the rough ride was worth it when we experienced an epic sunrise on the San Lorenzo ridge. Colombia's tallest peak, the snow-covered Pico Cristóbal Colón, loomed off in the distance.  Sunrise on the San Lorenzo Ridge Though the winds were high, we managed to connect with most of the endemic birds over the course of the morning. We managed exceptional views of both endemic antpittas (Sierra Nevada and Santa Marta Antpittas), Santa Marta Warbler, Yellow-crowned Redstart, and White-tailed Starfrontlet, to name a few. Black-cheeked Mountain-Tanagers showed well, though the other endemic tanager, the Carriker's Mountain-Tanager, remained heard only. A couple of cheeky Crab-eating Foxes were lurking around, hoping to share our breakfast. The plant life and butterfly diversity was quite enjoyable up on the ridge.  Southern Emerald-Toucanet (Santa Marta subspecies) Hermit Wood-Wren Sierra Nevada Antpitta Crab-eating Fox (Cerdocyon thous) Pedaliodes phazania Birding at the San Lorenzo Ridge We really enjoyed our two-night stay at the El Dorado Lodge and we lucked out with an amazing sunset one evening and sunrise one morning, despite being fogged out for some of our stay here. The birding opportunities were great around the lodge; highlights included Rusty-headed Spinetail, Brown-rumped Tapaculo, Lazuline Sabrewing and heard-only Barred Forest-Falcon. Some of the group had a lucky encounter with a Gray Tinamou, while an afternoon walk from the lodge back to the main road produced Gray-throated Leaftosser, Golden-breasted Fruiteater and Golden Grosbeak.  Sunset at the El Dorado Lodge Masked Trogon  Central American Agouti (Dasyprocta punctata) Lazuline Sabrewing At night, some of the group was successful with hearing a Santa Marta Screech-Owl, while we also experienced several endemic frog and lizard species as well as an endemic tarantula. Reiner and I each set up our insect-attracting lights. The bounty was incredible and we photographed around 200 species of moths in just one evening. Sphinx moths in particular were well-represented, with over 100 individuals of at least twelve species.  Eulepidotis rectimargo, a type of erebid moth Sarosa helotes, a type of tiger moth Rhodochlora endognoma, a type of geometer moth Xylophanes titana, a type of sphinx moth Paromenia sp., a type of leafhopper Symphlebia citrarius, a type of tiger moth Wittinia zebra, a type of flannel moth  Xylophanes ceratomioides, a type of sphinx moth Pityeja histrionaria, a type of geometer moth Idalus herois, a type of tiger moth Bertholdia albipuncta, a type of tiger moth Our final morning in the mountains was spent cleaning up some targets, including the endemic Black-backed Thornbill and the endemic subspecies of Cinnamon Flycatcher, before heading back down to the coast.  Golden Grosbeak Black-backed Thornbill (immature male) City of Santa Marta, as seen through a hole in the clouds from the Santa Marta mountains Mimardaris aerata, a type of firetip skipper Cinnamon Flycatcher (Santa Marta race) Our last day of the tour was spent visiting Ciénaga Grande de Santa Marta. This is the largest wetland in Colombia (over 4,200 km2). Highlights during our day here included a Bare-throated Tiger-Heron, several "trip birds" in American Coot, Cocoi Heron, Fulvous Whistling-Duck and Black-collared Hawk, and a visit to the floating village of Buena Vista where we enjoyed a lunch of fresh caught snapper with lentils, smashed plantain (patacones) rice and blackberry juice. That evening we returned to Barranquilla where we enjoyed our farewell dinner. It was a wonderful trip and I can't wait to return in the future! Floating village of Buena Vista Cocoi Heron

The winter of 2025-2026 is shaping up to be a proper one. Since basically the start of December we have experienced below average temperatures and an abundance of snow. We haven't had much respite from the cold, other than a brief warm spell in January quickly followed by an unrelenting Arctic blast. As I write this in early February we are mired in a long stretch with temperatures oscillating between -20 and -5 degrees Celsius. Most regions of southern Ontario have several feet of snow piled on the ground, and nearly every body of water (other than parts of Lake Ontario) is frozen solid.  Spruce Bog - Algonquin Provincial Park, Nipissing District In an attempt to stave off the seasonal depression that is common with many at this time of year, I have been spending more time outside this winter. One advantage of the crisp days is that the sun is often shining. Even on a bitterly cold day, the sun feels just a little stronger now than it did a month ago. And the days are growing noticeably longer, with today's sunset scheduled for 5:36 PM; a full 50 minutes later than what we were experiencing in late December. Red Squirrel - Algonquin Provincial Park, Nipissing District To continue reading on my other blog, click here.

In November I visited The Gambia along with ten travellers from Quest Nature Tours. Why The Gambia, you may ask? This tiny country is not well-known to the international community, but it is an attractive ecotourism destination. The Gambia is a stable, English-speaking democracy that has a relatively high diversity of species given its tiny size.  Egyptian Plovers Guinea Baboons (Papio papio) Its borders follow the Gambia River (with some buffer on either side) and it is surrounded entirely by Senegal. The Gambia is a popular destination for Brits and other northern Europeans due to convenient direct flights and beautiful beaches. While most tourists stay close to the resorts along the coastline, there is so much more to see in The Gambia by traveling up-country.  Scarlet-chested Sunbird Black-headed Lapwing In west Africa there is one distinct rainy season which usually occurs between May and September. This contrasts with east Africa which typically has two rainy seasons (one from March - May, and a shorter one from October - December). Our trip to The Gambia was timed to occur at the beginning of the dry season. Many birds were active and still in breeding plumage, while our days would largely be rain-free, making birding easier.  Beautiful Sunbird Greater Blue-eared Starling We began the tour with two nights at a resort along the Atlantic coast. Each day we were up early to make the most of our explorations before the heat of the day set in (but not too early, since sunrise isn't until 7 AM). We acquainted ourselves with some of the spectacular bird species that call this corner of Africa home. Our first morning at Brufut Woods was a bit overwhelming given the colour and diversity of the species. The vast majority were new for me as well, as this was my first time visiting sub-Saharan Africa. African Gray Hornbill Western Plaintain-eater Northern Red Bishop Hamerkop Some of the highlights from Brufut included Guinea and Violet Turacos, an exquisite African Pygmy Kingfisher, Red-cheeked Cordonbleu, Northern Puffback and four species of sunbirds. We enjoyed watching the antics of Rainbow Agamas and Gambian Sun Squirrels, too.  Red-cheeked Cordonbleu Northern Puffback African Pygmy Kingfisher Rainbow Agama (Agama agama) Gambian Sun Squirrel (Heliosciurus gambianus) The coastal mangroves and scrubby areas were filled with interesting species as well, including Giant Kingfishers and our only Swallow-tailed Bee-eaters of the trip. Some other standouts included Blue-bellied Roller, Black-headed Paradise-Flycatcher and Little Bee-eater.  Giant Kingfisher Swallow-tailed Bee-eater Blue-bellied Rollers Black-headed Paradise-Flycatcher Before commencing our journey up-country we stopped at Farasuto Forest. This community forest is found in the hometown of our local guide, Mustapha, and he is also a board member here. Farasuto came through with a roosting pair of Grayish Eagle-Owls, shown to us by a local guide. We also found a whole host of new species for us - Vieillot's and Bearded Barbets, great comparison views of both wood-doves, and our only Dideric Cuckoo, Beaudouin's Snake-Eagles and Striped Kingfishers of the trip. We also found a West African Banded Cobra (Naja nigricollis), a huge highlight for the herp enthusiasts in the group.  Grayish Eagle-Owl Common Tiger Blue (Tarucus theophrastus) Bearded Barbet Dark Chanting Goshawk Blue-spotted Wood-Dove African Wood White (Leptosia alcesta) We drove east for a couple of hours towards Tendaba Camp. Located on the shores of the mighty Gambia River, and situated near the wild and vast Kiang West National Park, this would be our base for two nights.  Our morning boat trip up a mangrove-lined tributary was simply amazing. We set off shortly after dawn in an uncovered boat with our local guides and experienced a huge diversity of species throughout the morning. Mangrove boat trip at Tendaba Camp Reed Cormorant African Sacred Ibis Malachite Kingfisher with an Atlantic Mudskipper (Periophthalmus barbarus) Mouse-brown Sunbirds were feeding nestlings in their river-side nests, the air was filled with the songs of Brown-throated Wattle-eyes, and Blue-breasted Kingfishers were perched around every bend. We found our only African Blue Flycatchers of the trip and enjoyed our first views of Yellow-crowned Gonoleks, Malachite Kingfishers and both European and White-throated Bee-eaters.  Mouse-brown Sunbird Brown-throated Wattle-eye Blue-breasted Kingfisher White-throated Bee-eaters Among the high diversity of wading birds were specialties like White-backed Night Heron (on a nest!) and Goliath Heron, the world's largest heron species. The latter was a personal highlight as it represented my 5,000th world bird species. It was great to share the moment with everyone!  White-backed Night Heron  Goliath Heron The scrubby habitats around Tendaba and in Kiang West National Park were filled with a different subset of species. We tracked down our first White-crested Helmetshrikes and found a scarce Brown-necked Parrot, while we also enjoyed birds like Grasshopper Buzzard, Purple Roller and Bruce's Green-Pigeon. We loved watching the antics of Guinea Baboons, Green Vervet Monkeys and Patas Monkeys. Brown-necked Parrot Green Vervet Monkey (Chlorocebus sabaeus) White-crested Helmetshrike We pushed further upriver by bus, reaching Janjanbureh Island for a two-night stay. The drive between Tendaba and Janjanbureh was made a touch longer as our bus got stuck on a muddy road. Thanks to some quick thinking by Mustapha and our driver, Momodou, we were able to source a tractor from a nearby town to free our bus, and we weren't delayed for too long. While we waited I took the group birding and we found African Green Bee-eaters and had incredible views of a Pearl-spotted Owlet.    African Green Bee-eater Pearl-spotted Owlet One highlight of our time at Janjanbureh Island was a long boat trip along the Gambia River. This particular vessel was quite comfortable with an open upper level, covered lower level, bathroom and a cooler full of cold drinks. Though we were unable to find any African Finfoots (a scarce resident along the Gambia River), we found around 70 bird species including White-backed Vulture, Rüppell's Griffon, Palm-nut Vulture, Levaillant's Cuckoo and Woodland Kingfisher.  Birding from the upper deck Borassus akeassii palms Rüppell's Griffon Palm-nut Vultures We also found Western Red Colobus monkeys along the riverside and spent some time with a few West African Chimpanzees. These chimpanzees were introduced here many decades ago and they have a self-sustaining population along some of the river islands.  Wesern Red Colobus (Piliocolobus badius) Chimpanzee (Pan troglodytes) My next post will cover the remainder of the trip. Stay tuned.

Zapotén is a legendary birding area in southwestern Dominican Republic quite close to the Haiti border, and it is a must-visit site for any birder on Hispaniola. This rough track climbs high into the Sierra de Bahoruco, a beautiful mountain range cloaked in pine and broadleaf forests home to a high diversity of species. From a birding point of view, it is the most reliable site to find the localized La Selle Thrush as well as most of the other endemic species found in the mountains of the Dominican Republic. The only problem is that a high clearance 4x4 is required to traverse this road. But there is an easy solution for visiting birders. An ecolodge called Villa Barrancoli is situated only 40 minutes from the start of the rough road and its owner, Kate Wallace, regularly organizes 4x4 transport for birders. And so that is what we did.   October 20, 2025 (continued) We arrived at Villa Barrancoli in the middle of the afternoon and were met by Kate. Originally from the United States, Kate is a passionate biologist and birder who has lived in the Dominican Republic for much of her life. Kate gave us a tour of the ecolodge and showed us to our cabins. We would be the only guests during our two night stay.  Exterior of cabin - Villa Barrancoli Ecolodge, Independencia, Dominican Republic Interior of cabin - Villa Barrancoli Ecolodge, Independencia, Dominican Republic Washroom/shower building - Villa Barrancoli Ecolodge, Independencia, Dominican Republic The ecolodge is rustic but contains everything you need. Just don't expect luxury. The cabins were simple and came equipped with fans while the toilets and showers were in a nearby building. We found the price a bit steep (75 USD per person per night), but this included our meals and the location was perfect, even if the ecolodge itself was rather basic and in need of some upkeep. And having Kate organize our Zapotén expedition for the following morning was very helpful.  Dan, Laura and I dropped off our bags and headed out for a pre-dinner walk. The ecolodge is situated next to a dirt road/trail called Rabo de Gato that probes deeper into the countryside, accessing dry forest and shallow wetlands. It is a very popular birding trail and many of the more difficult endemic bird species can be found here, including the Bay-breasted Cuckoo and White-fronted Quail-Dove.  Rabo de Gato Trail, Independencia, Dominican Republic Laura came through with an excellent find. "I see a snake!" she yelled and I looked to see a sleek, striped snake vanish off the trail. Fortunately it did not go far. I saw it again and quickly pounced, coming up successfully with the serpent safely in my hands. A Cope's Antilles Snake.  Cope's Antilles Snake (Hypsirhynchus parvifrons) - Rabo de Gato, Independencia, Dominican Republic Cope's Antilles Snake (Hypsirhynchus parvifrons) - Rabo de Gato, Independencia, Dominican Republic This is the same species of snake that Dan and I had seen road-killed that morning. The Cope's Antilles Snake is endemic to Hispaniola and it is closely related to several other species that are only found in the Caribbean. Like all Caribbean snakes, the Cope's Antilles Snake is nonvenomous and harmless. They prey mainly on small lizards such as anoles, of which there is no shortage of here.  Cope's Antilles Snake (Hypsirhynchus parvifrons) - Rabo de Gato, Independencia, Dominican Republic Apart from the snake, our late afternoon walk at Rabo de Gato was fairly uneventful. We were unable to find our main target birds (White-fronted and Key West Quail-Doves, and Bay-breasted Cuckoo), though we managed a good look at a Zenaida Dove and a Scaly-naped Pigeon, both of which were new for Laura. We headed back to the ecolodge for dinner.  Dominican Graceful Anole (Anolis distichus ignigularis) - Rabo de Gato, Independencia, Dominican Republic Despite a 3:15 AM wakeup call looming for the following morning, the three of us headed back out after dinner for an abbreviated night-hike. I manned the thermal camera while Dan and Laura scanned for herps and insects. I found a few heat signatures that turned into roosting birds - Broad-billed Tody and Black-and-white Warbler - while Dan and Laura found some interesting arthropods including a couple of vinegaroons. These arachnids are well-known for their defence mechanism of spraying acetic acid. This is the same compound found in vinegar, hence the common name.  Hispaniolan Vinegaroon (Mastigoproctus proscorpio) - Rabo de Gato, Independencia, Dominican Republic Dan also spotted a couple of Brown Widow Spiders (Latrodectus geometricus), a species closely related to the Northern Black Widow which we have back home in Ontario. Though bites from Brown Widows are apparently painful, they are not as dangerous as bites from the Northern Black Widow.  Brown Widow (Latrodectus geometricus) - Rabo de Gato, Independencia, Dominican Republic Unfortunately, despite using the thermal I was unable to find any Hispaniolan Solenodons (a large shrew-like creature that is one of only two species of terrestrial mammals native to Hispaniola), and Dan and Laura could not turn up any snakes. We checked the moth sheet once we returned to the ecolodge. It was covered with insects! Epitragus aurulentus - Villa Barrancoli Ecolodge, Independencia, Dominican Republic Unidentified crambid moth - Villa Barrancoli Ecolodge, Independencia, Dominican Republic Ethmia abraxasella - Villa Barrancoli Ecolodge, Independencia, Dominican Republic Insulatitan youngi - Villa Barrancoli Ecolodge, Independencia, Dominican Republic Hieroglyphic Moth (Diphthera festiva) - Villa Barrancoli Ecolodge, Independencia, Dominican Republic With the 3:15 AM alarm quickly approaching we called it a night and headed off to bed. The Blue Jays were losing 3-1 partway through the critical Game 7 of the American League Championship Series at this point. October 21, 2025 "The Jays won!!!"  Those were the first words I heard in the morning. Laura must have woken a few minutes before me and checked the score - indeed, they had a massive come from behind win, thanks to a three-run home run by George Springer to erase the 3-1 deficit. I could hardly believe it - the Blue Jays were going to the World Series for the first time in 32 years. Needless to say, the early wakeup didn't seem so rough following that news.  Today was a day that we had been anticipating for weeks as it would be our expedition up the Zapotén Road. Our driver, Rafael, arrived at 3:50 and we loaded the cooler containing sandwiches, cookies and a thermos of coffee into the back of his Toyota Land Cruiser. This is the gold standard vehicle in so many parts of the world for tackling the roughest roads.  The reason for our early wakeup was simple. We needed to be above the third army checkpoint before dawn since La Selle Thrushes can be reliably observed on the road for just a few minutes around 7am. And given the state of the road, it would take around two hours to reach this location.  We stopped only once on the drive up when Rafael heard an Ashy-headed Owl hissing from beside the road just after the first checkpoint. Mere seconds later, he had found it in his spotlight. Clearly, Rafael was more than just a driver - he was a keen birder as well.  We bounced along, slowly making our way up the mountain. We passed the second checkpoint, and then the third. Finally, at 6 AM we had arrived at our destination. Zapotén, Pedernales, Dominican Republic We downed the hot coffee while waiting for the sky to lighten. Above us was a most incredible display of stars. Off in the distance the first Hispaniolan Nightjars begin their distinctive song, followed shortly by the Rufous-throated Solitaires. Dawn was imminent and we needed to get moving.  Zapotén, Pedernales, Dominican Republic All four of us were on high alert as we tiptoed along the road. Up ahead was a famous bend in the road dubbed "La Selle Thrush Corner" for obvious reasons, and the day was brightening up far too quickly. Would we be late for our date with this rare mountain thrush?  La Selle Thrush Corner - Zapotén, Pedernales, Dominican Republic Our first Western Chat-Tanager appeared in the roadside shrubbery, delaying us by a minute or two. But we shouldn't have worried. Right at La Selle Thrush Corner was a solitary La Selle Thrush, hopping along quietly. We crept around the bend in the road, enabling much better views. Not two minutes later it had slunk back into the woods where it would likely remain for the rest of the day. We were lucky.  La Selle Thrush - Zapotén, Pedernales, Dominican Republic This was our first time in the mountains proper and so we soaked in the sights. Zapotén, Pedernales, Dominican Republic Despite the clear skies earlier in the morning, now that it was daylight we noticed clouds rolling down the mountainsides, ready to envelop us. This was not good news. It would make finding another big target, the Golden Swallow, nearly impossible. It would also likely quiet many of the other birds.  We kept an eye out for quail-doves on the road but this was not meant to be. Surely, we would have more chances for the endemic White-fronted Quail-Dove near the Villa Barrancoli Ecolodge later that day or the following morning.  Zapotén, Pedernales, Dominican Republic The birding remained steady and we quickly found a pair of White-winged Warblers. These are not actually true warblers - rather, they are in the family Phaenicophilidae which is endemic to Hispaniola and which also contains the two species of palm-tanager and the Green-tailed Warbler.  White-winged Warbler - Zapotén, Pedernales, Dominican Republic We heard several Hispaniolan Euphonias but they refused to be seen once again. The birding was a bit quiet, possibly due to the gloomy conditions. This satyr was the only butterfly species that we observed at the upper elevations.  Calisto archebates - Zapotén, Pedernales, Dominican Republic A Hispaniolan Trogon started singing next to the road, though it slipped away before Laura or I managed a look. Luckily, we found a second one at the next bend in the road. These trogons can be common during the breeding season, but at this time of the year they are quiet and unobtrusive. Hispaniolan Trogon - Zapotén, Pedernales, Dominican Republic Watching the Hispaniolan Trogon - Zapotén, Pedernales, Dominican Republic Rafael turned out to be an excellent birding guide; not "just" a driver as we had been led to believe. He knew every sound on the mountain and had locations to try for most bird species. He somehow managed to spot this day-roosting Hispaniolan Nightjar. We were incredulous as to how he managed this feat. Surely this is a known roosting spot? A check of eBird shows no photos of this species taken during the day from this mountain which leads me to believe that he just randomly found this one for us. Incredible.  Hispaniolan Nightjar - Zapotén, Pedernales, Dominican Republic By the time that we returned to the pine forest around the third army checkpoint, the threat of rain had diminished and the sun even came out for a brief moment or two. Rafael and Dan heard an Antillean Siskin (Laura and I were further up the road and missed it), and then a nice mixed flock passed through that contained our first Hispaniolan Elaenia.  Hispaniolan Elaenia - Zapotén, Pedernales, Dominican Republic As I write this a week later, following eBird's taxonomy update, this is one of the new species that my life list has gained. When we were looking at this elaenia it was called the Greater Antillean Elaenia. I had seen the Jamaican subspecies last year. But the Greater Antillean Elaenia has now been split - each island now has its own endemic species. Hispaniolan Elaenia - Zapotén, Pedernales, Dominican Republic One of my most-wanted bird for this trip was the Hispaniolan Crossbill and we lucked into a female here. Crossbills are nomadic birds of North America's coniferous forests and back home in Ontario we can find White-winged and Red Crossbills. The Red Crossbill in particular has quite a lot of variation, with several varieties that have slightly different vocalizations and bill shapes. These races specialize on different conifer seeds. One of them feeds on Lodgepole Pines in southern Idaho and it has been split off as its own species called the Cassia Crossbill; all of the other races are, for now, still lumped within Red Crossbill. And here in the pine forests of Hispaniola there is a crossbill that somewhat resembles the White-winged Crossbill. Hispaniolan Crossbill - Zapotén, Pedernales, Dominican Republic One theory is that a group of White-winged Crossbills remained trapped on Hispaniola near the end of the last ice age. As the temperatures warmed, pine forests retreated further north and the only pines that could survive in Hispaniola were these high elevation ones, now called the Hispaniolan Pine. In the thousands of years since, this resident population of crossbills remained and they are distinct enough to be considered their own species - the Hispaniolan Crossbill. It was really neat to spend a few minutes with this female Hispaniolan Crossbill and to observe its unique bill shape and listen to its distinctive calls.  Hispaniolan Crossbill - Zapotén, Pedernales, Dominican Republic By this point we had found most of our bird targets from the upper elevations, though the Golden Swallow and White-fronted Quail-Dove still eluded us. We started back down the road as we had a few more targets - namely the Hispaniolan Loggerhead Kingbird and Bay-breasted Cuckoo, two of the toughest endemics on the island.  Naranjos area, Independencia, Dominican Republic Beginning around 1000 m in elevation, we made frequent stops to play tapes for both of our target species. Our first handful of stops produced no hits, though we found our first Olive-throated Parakeets of the trip as well as a nice selection of butterflies.  Trawling for cuckoos - Naranjos area, Independencia, Dominican Republic Olive-throated Parakeet - Naranjos area, Independencia, Dominican Republic Cloudless Sulphur (Phoebis sennae) - Naranjos area, Independencia, Dominican Republic Anasaitis locuples - Naranjos area, Independencia, Dominican Republic Banded Yellow (Eurema elathea) - Naranjos area, Independencia, Dominican Republic Finally, we lucked out with a Hispaniolan Loggerhead Kingbird that responded to the tape. It remained out of sight, though. I had read that this species is quite tape-responsive; perhaps this is only the case during the breeding season.  Hispaniolan Violet Dung-Rolling Beetle (Canthon violaceus) - Naranjos area, Independencia, Dominican Republic One of our last stops produced a vocal Bay-breasted Cuckoo as well! It was also uncooperative, but we would have redemption at our final stop before reaching the first army checkpoint. We heard a pair of Bay-breasted Cuckoos vocalizing from somewhere off the road. I decided to enter the forest and, after following the sounds of the cuckoo, I found it perched just above eye-level. Luckily it stayed long enough for Dan and Laura to bask in its glory. Such an awesome bird! Bay-breasted Cuckoo - Naranjos area, Independencia, Dominican Republic With most of our targets in the bag, Rafael drove us back to Villa Barrancoli. But we made one final stop in some agricultural fields and quickly found a pair of Antillean Siskins, yet another endemic species down! Antillean Siskin - Puerto Escondido, Independencia, Dominican Republic We thanked Rafael profusely for such an excellent day. If anyone is planning a Zapotén expedition through Kate Wallace, ask for Rafael - you won't be disappointed.