More from Sherman's Food Adventures
While trying to decide on which Omakase we were going to try while in Portland, I briefly considered Nimblefish and Nodoguro, however after reading up on Reddit, we narrowed in on Hamono Sushi in Downtown Portland. Besides the Omakase course, the one thing that makes Hamono unique is that they offer an AYCE menu once the Omakase has been served. Yes, that is a strange concept, but something we were willing to try especially for their reasonable $110.00 price tag. The place is pretty intimate with only 4 bar seats and around 7/8 tables. We started with some small side dishes including a Potato Salad, Imitation Crab Salad and a Cucumber Salad. As much as these were pretty simple and basic, I enjoyed them. Potato salad was creamy and sweet with chunks of tender potato and shredded imitation crab. The crab salad had a great bounce texture and the savoriness was tasty. Cucumbers were crunchy, sweet and a bit tangy. Appetizing. As for the Miso Soup, it was mild and had a rich saltiness. Loved the fresh snow crab hidden on the bottom. It was fluffy and briny. So our Omakase featured a large wooden board with 15 pieces of Nigiri and a fried shrimp head. By looks alone, all of the fish had a nice sheen and things smelled right. As much as the uni looked a bit dark in color (could be a male), it tasted fine. My favorite bites from this was the A5 Wagyu, Bluefin Otoro, Hotate and King Salmon (with delicious chili crunch). This was a nice plate of nigiri but they were a little overzealous with the scallions. Maybe change it up with the condiments instead of using it 9 times. Our last course before the AYCE portion of the meal was the Seafood Chawamushi. This was very delicate and maybe a touch too watery. However, it ate with a silky texture and mild dashi notes. The prawn hidden underneath was still buttery with a meaty texture. It was briny and sweet. The piece of snow crab was fluffy, briny and also sweet. Now that we were at the AYCE portion of the meal, we got some more Nigiri in the form of King Salmon and Hotate. We asked that the salmon be served plain without the garlic crunch on top. Turns out that it actually needed it as the salmon wasn't that flavorful on its own. It was buttery soft though. The hotate was large and soft with natural briny sweetness. Just like I said before, it didn't need any of the green onions on top. We got a few smaller bites in the Yellowtail Jalapeno and the Uni Toro Tartare. Although not the most attractive thing, the hamachi was fresh, buttery and sweet. Nice kick from the jalapeno. As for the tartare, it featured buttery tuna belly that had a nice tinge of the sea along with pops of brininess from the ikura. Once again, the color of the uni wasn't the best, but it did eat well adding a creamy sweetness. It sat atop a fried tortilla chip that added crunch. Even though I knew it would put me over the edge, I had to get one of their specialty rolls. I went for the Bluefin Tuna Roll that had a tempura ebi in the middle with imitation crab and cucumber. On top, there was bluefin akami, scallion, fried onion, eel and ponzu. Yes, this was quite the hefty roll with warm sushi rice that was a touch soft but still had a chew. I though this roll was good but was a bit too big. Also, they overused scallions quite a bit here. One of the best things we ate was their Grilled Beef Shortrib. Unlike other AYCE spots, these were good quality (as in more meat than fat) being tender and meaty. The marinade was great being sweet and savory while the char on them was on point. Although the batter on the Tempura was a bit thick, it ate crispy and fairly light. Things were cooked right including the buttery ebi, sweet potato and zucchini. Surprisingly, there was a piece of snow crab leg (not imitation crab) in the mix. There were a few options for dessert, but we were stuffed at this point, so we opted for the Mochi Ice Cream in the form of matcha, passionfruit and mango. We particularly enjoyed the passionfruit as it was flavorful with a soft mochi exterior. Overall, we rather enjoyed this meal. However, we thought this would be better named "higher-end AYCE" rather than Omakase. Sure, the nigiri portion was good quality and reasonably-priced for $110.00. Yet, it didn't feel like most other Omakase meals we've had elsewhere (as in not in Portland). The Good: - Ingredients are high-quality - Preparation is quite good - Price is reasonable for what you get The Bad: - Not really Omakase, but rather high-end AYCE - Overuse of scallions on almost everything
On our last day in NYC before an evening flight, we made the trek out into midtown searching for some bagels. The first stop was at Utopia Bagels out on East 34th Street. Founded in 1980 at its original Queens location, Utopia is known for its hand-made bagels. We made it rather early on a Sunday, so the place was only a bit busy. We ended up grabbing a selection of bagels to bring home. The most basic one in our bag of bagels was the Sesame. After being toasted, the bagel exhibited classic NYC-style texture and density. The exterior was crunchy, yet wasn't hard nor dense. Inside, we found the desired chew, but it was still soft at the same time. In terms of taste, the bagel was savory and not sweet (like the ones we had in Montreal at Fairmount). The nuttiness of the sesame was very apparent. Of course we went for the Everything Bagel as well (it is our favorite!). Naturally, with sesame seeds, there was similar elements to the previous bagel, but adding poppy seeds (not very many), onion and garlic meant we had more complexity. Be careful toasting this one up though since you do not want to burn the garlic. Something a bit different was the Jalapeno Cheddar. As you can see, this was almost completely covered with cheese. As a result, the salty and nutty cheesiness was at the forefront. Furthermore, this made the bagel a bit more moist and less crunchy on the outside (in particular, the side with the cheese. Some tangy spice was provided by the jalapenos. Moving over to the sweeter bagels, we tried the Cinnamon Raisin. This was definitely sweeter and especially with pops of flavor from the raisins, it was great with some basic cream cheese or even good quality butter. This could all be said about the Blueberry Bagel as well, except with a more muted sweetness. A little bit more moisture from the blueberries though. After toasting, both had the same crunchy exterior like the other bagels while being chewy, yet soft inside. Our last bagel in our order was the French Toast Bagel. Yes, this was mapley-sweet with hits of cinnamon and a bit more sweetness from the powdered sugar. Texturally, it was still classic bagel with a soft chewiness. Really enjoyed this one, but I highly recommend that you get this in a separate bag because it took on all the essence of the everything bagel. Overall, the bagels at Utopia were exactly what we prefer - soft but chewy with a nice crunchy exterior after being toasted. They also have a wide selection of flavors too. The Good: - Classic bagel texture - Lots of options - Manageable size The Bad: - Lines can be a little long
It's been almost 9 whole years I've been trying to dine at Orto. Even since they opened in 2017, I've received recommendations from friends about the place. From its beautiful garden to their handmade pastas, this was apparently the new hot place to go in North Van. Well, it is no longer new, but still a popular place amongst the locals and those willing to drive out to the North Shore. We finally got the opportunity to hit them up since we were in nearby Downtown Vancouver. Since we had an early reservation, we secured prime seating amongst the foliage in an almost private dining-esque table for 2. Being neighbouring businesses and sharing the same ethos of artisanal eats, Orto serves Bad Dog Bread on their menu. Of course we didn't hesitate to have some for our meal. This came with 6 toasted slices accompanied by tapenade, EVOO and caramelized onion butter. Bread was fantastic having a heartiness to it without being dense. It had a nuttiness and went really well with the sweet butter. Tapenade was great too having the classic briny saltiness of the olives. We also got the Green Leaf Lettuce Salad as well and it was organic and fresh while being tossed in a tangy and bright vinaigrette. It was topped with plenty of shaved parmesan. Onto some appies, we went for one of the features of the night being the Calamari. These were in generally little pieces which were coated in a uniformly crispy batter. We thought it was properly seasoned and none too greasy. The squid itself had a chew while still being tender. Best part was the housemade tartar sauce. It featured fresh mayo that was made with free-range eggs with a combination of dill, capers and onions. Really bright and tangy with rich creaminess. We also had the Mussels Poulette with a huge side of frites. Sitting in a white wine and cream sauce, the plump honey mussels were cooked beautifully. We found them buttery soft with the usual chew from the mantle while having an appealing sweet brininess. The broth was a bit sweet and bright, but could've used just a bit more aromatics. Really enjoyed the frites as they were super crispy while light and airy on the inside. Despite the large portion, we dusted it off. Onto our pastas, we went for the Spaghetti Carbonara. Featuring firmly al dente pasta, there was some real texture with every bite. Really well done since fresh pasta can be finicky to work with. There was a real cheesy richness to the dish without having the egg curdle. Plenty of lardons in the mix providing the fattiness as well as the saltiness for the dish. It also provided a meaty texture intermittently between bites of pasta. A final topping of parm on top provided extra nuttiness. For some reason, the Squid Ink Spaghetti was a little less al dente than the carbonara. It was quite possibly due to the residual moisture from the seafood at the bottom of the plate. No matter, as that was where some of the brininess and bright wine flavour resided. There was a good amount of garlickiness from the garlic and garlic scapes. However, as a whole, the pasta was quite bland. It was lacking in salt and could've used much more chili for some kick. As for the scallops, they were buttery soft and cooked beautifully. The prawns were also good being cooked first and added to the pasta after. Nice meatiness to them. In addition to our pastas, we added the Risotto with crab meat for good measure. This was rather tasty with the definite sweet aromatics of lobster. It quite possibly obscured the brininess of the crab, but we did get some hits of it with the bits and pieces of meat. With the addition of mushrooms, we got another hit of umami and depth. The rice itself was chewy and cooked right. Despite being rather full and having to pack most of the pastas, we saved room for dessert. We ended up with the Affogato and we were surprised it came with 2 scoops of gelato. Combined with the espresso, there was an aromatic caramel flavour. However, with so much gelato, it did dilute the coffee a bit. No matter, we still enjoyed this and it was great on a hot day. Our second dessert was the Cherry Pannacotta. It was refreshing and light, but the pannacotta wasn't completely set. I personally didn't mind it that much as I prefer that over an overly firm texture. The cherry compote on top was only semi-sweet with some tartness. Overall, the meal at Orto was mostly good with some things that could be better. Service was fantastic and the garden setting elevates the experience. Pricing is completely fair where it fairly accessible. The Good: - That garden is fabulous - Excellent service - Generous portions The Bad: - A few things could be better - If you are stuck sitting inside, it is unbearably warm during the Summer
Many years ago, I would visit Song Huong out on Nanaimo for their Vietnamese fare, in particularly, their Bò 7 Món. For those who are not familiar, this is seven courses of beef that is usually served during celebrations. So when they opened a second location near me, I knew I had to go. I actually went twice with the second visit being the one I had their Bò 4 Món. Yes, they no longer have the 7 courses, but hey, I'll take 4 courses! But before, we got to the 4 courses of beef, we had the Bánh Cuốn Chả Lụa Bánh Cống on our initial visit. This consisted of steamed rice rolls with ground pork and wood ear mushroom as well as deep fried fish cake and Vietnamese ham. I thought the sheets of rice noodle were a bit firm, but still soft enough. Filling was tender with the crunch of the wood ear. Fish cake was crispy and soft in the middle. Of course we have to try the Phở Tái Nạm Gân and this featured a broth that was fairly clean and not overly fatty. I would say the overall impact and flavour of the broth were good where we had some meatiness and I also could taste some of the usual components including star anise, daikon and charred onion. Noodles were al dente while the meats were tender. However, the portion size was concerning. Sure, I do have a bigger appetite, but really, this would be more of snack for me. At least maybe offer the option of an XL and I would gladly pay the higher price. As for the Bún Bò Huế, there was definitely spice and a touch of brininess, but as for depth, it didn't have the hit of lemongrass that I would've liked. It was there and not strong enough, or not there at all. Even the brininess could've been dialed up by 3 times. Also, the portion size, like the Pho, was pretty small with a limited amount of noodles and only just enough meat. Again, an optional larger size would've been appreciated. Moving away from noodle soups, we had the Lemongrass Chicken and Spring Roll Vermicelli Bowl. There are pros and cons about bone-in chicken, but for me personally, I'm not a fan of bone-in as it makes it really difficult to eat. With that being said, the chicken was moist and flavourful though. Spring roll was great with a crunchy rice paper wrapper. Pork and veggies in this was sweet and briny while being juicy. Here we are with the Bò 4 Món with the first course being the Sliced Beef in vinegar hot pot. All the fixin's were there including rice paper and the hot water to dip them into (you only need to dip it for a few seconds!). Rice noodles, herbs, pickled veg, bean sprouts, onions and anchovy sauce were also there to wrap inside the rice paper along with the beef. There was a small amount of lemongrass, peanuts (on the side because my daughter has sensitivities) and chili sauce as well. The next 3 courses consisted of Grilled Beef Rolls (Satay Beef, Beef wrapped in La Lot Leaves and Beef wrapped in Caul Fat). Naturally, these were all very similar where the ground beef was juicy and tender. They were well-seasoned being a bit sweetness while nicely charred and caramelized. We enjoyed wrapping the meats and making our own salad rolls. I really wished they still had the 7 courses, but I guess it might not have been a big seller, so it is understandable. Overall, the food is pretty solid at Song Huong, but portions are either too small or just average in size. The Good: - Decent eats - They have Bò 4 Món - This location is spacious and clean The Bad: - Portions are too small (should offer larger portions for an extra charge) - Service is good, but sparse
Here we go with another restaurant on my "to eat at" list but it has taken me until now to actually pay them a visit. When Bluebeard and Nikita wanted to meet up for dinner, it was as good as any time to suggest Selene Aegean Bistro out on Pentiction at Hastings. Not be confused with Chez Celine out on Fraser, this place features a Mediterranean menu as its name suggests. We really loved the front facade of the place as it created the right atmosphere even before we set foot inside. After discussing what to have on the menu, we ended up with their Tasting Menu for $80.00 per person. Things got off on the right foot with a trio of items including Babaganoush. We found the eggplant to be silky smooth and quite pleasant with a touch of earthiness. We would've liked to see a bit more smokiness though. It went really well with the fresh pita as it contrasted the crispiness of the pita (where it was fluffy inside). With much more impact, the Tirosalata had plenty of kick from the fermented red chilis as well as a balancing amount of tanginess. It was also slightly creamy from the feta and of course nuttiness from the walnuts. Although not as prominent in size, the small cup of Stuffed Olives was impactful. Beyond the initial briny and tangy notes, the creaminess of the feta really came through. Lastly, the Amberjack Crudo was a pleasant dish with meaty slices of fish in a strawberry ouzo broth. Nice sweetness with only a touch of licorice. As amberjack can typically be, it started off with a fairly firm texture, but it got much softer as I chewed it. The slices of jalapeno were thin and did not overwhelm the fish. Rather it gave the necessary bite for impact. Second course featured Horiatiki and Mussels. As you may already know, I rarely fawn over a salad. However, the tomato-forward horiatiki was magnificent. The fresh tomatoes were plump and the marinated ones were sweet like candy. These were balanced off by the pickled onions and some olives as well as some creamy red wine feta. Consisting of plump out-of-the-shell mussels, these sat in a spicy loukaniko butter. So many layers of flavour here including briny, sweet, nutty and of course spiciness. Some freshly-shaved fennel added crunch and brightness. The toasted and oiled olive focaccia was the perfect thing to sop up all of the sauce. Since Nikita cannot have any gluten, they were able to make the Kalamari with potato starch for the Kalamari to accommodate. Honestly, if no one told me this was gluten-free, I would've accepted it as the standard dish. I found it really good with tender squid with a nice bite while the coating was firmly crispy. That tzatziki was money with notable dill hits and purposeful tanginess. Third course had the bigger dishes in the Arctic Char and Bavette Steak. This set of dishes were okay, but not as good as the the first two courses. We found the Arctic Char to have a uniformly crispy skin that was well-seasoned, but the fish itself was a bit overdone. It wasn't dry though, so still pretty good. Underneath, we found spinach sitting in an avgolemono which had a nice viscosity and brightness. As much as I enjoyed the ezme underneath (which was tangy, mildly spicy and earthy), the Bavette Steak was not as tender as we would've liked. It was prepared a perfect medium-rare though and properly rested. Loved the white anchovies and pickled pearl onions on top as it added some brininess to the dish. The side of triple cooked Patatas were super crunchy and nutty with creamy potatoey insides. Loved the creamy feta mayo on the side. Smoky with slight bitterness, the Oyster Mushroom Souvlaki was sitting on a bed of walnut skordalia, which was thick (from the bread), nutty and tangy. I didn't mind it, but others at the table thought it tasted off. Onto dessert, we were served the Mahalepi and Amygdalota Ice Cream Sandwich. We really enjoyed the ice cream sandwich as the tahini ice cream was nutty, sweet and nicely sweetened by the honey caramel. The almond cookie had a crumbly crunch and of course nuttiness. The fig-infused pannacotta to be smooth and silky with just the right consistency. The macerated strawberries add a sweet tanginess while the brown sugar kataifi (served on the side) added crunchiness. Overall, it was a pleasant meal at Selene. We felt the prices were reasonable for the amount and quality of food we were served. The Good: - Generally delicious food - Well-priced - The calamari The Bad: - Steak was not as tender as we would've liked
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[Epistemic Status: Speculative unifying theory of biology.] I don’t know about you, but I greatly resent having to be a biological organism and subject to all the poor engineering and design decisions that entails. This has many manifestations. A recent one is often wondering, why is the entire body such garbage except for the liver? Take the kidneys. Once you reach adulthood, they start to slowly decay. You can damage them through not-obviously-dangerous stuff like taking too much vitamin D or taking ibuprofen while dehydrated. Significant damage typically leads to scarring and a permanent reduction in function. Or take the gums. If you brush too hard or don’t floss enough, they may retreat down your teeth, never to return. Most of the body is like that. But the liver. My friends, the liver! If it’s injured, it will usually heal without scars. As you age, it typically maintains near full strength. You can give half of your liver to someone else and it will regrow to full size and function in a few months. I’d like to find whoever designed the liver and have them make me a full body. Except here’s a theory: It’s good that most of the body is fragile crap. It would be better if some parts of the body were more fragile. Some other ways the body would appear to be poorly designed Menopause. We’re still struggling to reconcile modernity with the short human reproductive interval. But did you know that menopause is almost unknown outside of humans? Even the other great apes remain fertile for almost their entire lives. The only known exceptions are (1) killer whales, (2) pilot whales, (3) beluga whales, (4) false killer whales, (5) narwhals, and (6) one specific population of chimpanzees in Uganda. Inuries. If your leg gets chopped off, that’s it, no more leg. Your body will try to grow scar tissue over the wound and then you’re on your own. But if you chop off the leg of a salamander it… grows a new leg. Isn’t that the obvious to do? Why don’t we do that? Telomeres. The ends of your chromosomes have a little repetitive sequence called a telomere. When cells divide, the body tries to copy the DNA, but good-old DNA polymerase can’t quite copy all the way to the end, meaning the telomeres slowly get shorter. After dividing 50-70 times, the telomeres are gone, and the cells stop dividing and then slowly stop working. This is one of the many ticking clocks of aging. Transplants. If you need a new kidney, and someone is nice enough to give you one of theirs, your body will respond by trying to kill it, meaning you have to take horrible immunosuppressants for the rest of your life. And even after taking them, there’s a 30% chance the kidney will be rejected within 10 years. This is not helpful. Diabetes. Some day, your immune system may decide to attack your pancreas. After a while, your pancreas will stop making insulin, meaning that unless you reorient your entire life around keeping your blood sugar in check, your eyes, kidneys, nerves, and heart will constantly accumulate damage. Your immune system should not attack your pancreas. Brains. After you reach adulthood, neurons don’t divide. If some of your neurons die—which happens every day—then they’re gone. If you get a brain injury, the other neurons will try to “learn around” the injury, but the neurons themselves are never replaced. Junk. All cells build up various “junk” over time. As they divide, the junk is diluted. But some cells (neurons, various cells in the eyes) never divide, so the amount of junk (e.g. lipofuscin) just goes up and up. This is another ticking clock. Blood. Your flesh needs blood, which your body delivers through blood vessels. Over time, these can get clogged with plaque. The thing to do in this situation is to sprout new blood vessels. Your body knows how to do that. But by default it maintains high levels of various inhibitors (angiostatin, endostatin, THBS1) that tell your cells not to do so. If your heart or brain get starved of blood, your body will try to reverse all this inhibition, but the process is slow and clumsy and can only produce tiny blood vessels. What’s going on here? As always in biology, the correct answer is: A lot, it’s complicated. But I think there’s a common thread. The clearest case is probably telomeres wearing down as you get older. At first glance, you might ask, why does this problem exist at all? Bacteria—because they aren’t idiots—have circular DNA, which doesn’t have ends or telomeres. Eukaryotes like us evolved from bacteria. Who decided to replace circular DNA with linear DNA? Or, you might ask, why doesn’t the body re-lengthen the telomeres? Well, actually it does! We have an enzyme designed specifically for that purpose, called telomerase. But, after embryonic development, the body doesn’t bother to use it, except in stem cells, reproductive cells, and certain parts of the immune system. Huh? The reason we have linear DNA instead of circular DNA is contested.1 But whatever. If the body wanted to re-lengthen the telomeres, it could easily do that. Your cells already have DNA to make telomerase. They just don’t use it. Instead, they let the telomeres get shorter until they stop dividing and stop working. Why? Because… … Cancer. (That’s our answer to the question in the title of this post: The human body is so crap except for the liver because cancer. As we’ll see, this answer is only semi-correct, and even then only with several caveats. But what do you expect from biology?) Letting the telomeres get shorter is not a mistake. It is a deliberate design decision.2 Often, in your body, the following happens: Some cells get a mutation that causes them to start reproducing too fast. Your immune system decides they’re suspicious and kills them. You’re fine. 👍 But sometimes this happens: Some cells get a mutation that causes them to start reproducing too fast. They grow for a while, but then (for complicated reasons3) they stop increasing in number. But they aren’t just sitting there, they’re constantly reproducing and dying, much faster than normal cells. Eventually, they develop another mutation that allows them to overcome whatever was stopping them from growing. This continues for a while, with the cells gradually acquiring more of the mutations they need to grow to a large size. But wait! With all this reproduction, at some point the mutated cells ran out of telomeres and stopped being able to reproduce. Ha! Screw you, mutated cells! 👍 To be clear, this also sometimes happen: (Steps 1-6 above) With all this reproduction, at some point the mutated cells figured out how to turn telomerase back on. This re-lengthens their telomeres, so they can reproduce indefinitely. They either stop growing for other reasons (👍) or you use our modern technological civilization to kill/remove them (👍) or they grow so slowly that something else kills you first (🤌) or there is a less desirable outcome (👎). (If you’re a biologist who is outraged at the above description, I’ve written a footnote which I beg you read before yelling at me.4) Having telomeres that wear down is good, because it slows down cancer. It’s also bad, because it means our bodies slowly stop working. Evolution decided the good outweighed the bad, and I expect that evolution was right. Several of the other ways in which the human body is “crap” can be explained in the same way. Why can’t you re-grow your leg if it gets chopped off? Well, that would require that all your cells have a “begin rapid growth mode” button on them, with some external trigger. In a sense, it would require your body to leave your cells sitting around in a state that’s closer to being cancer. Not doing that is good, because it slows down cancer, and bad, because you can’t grow a new leg. Evolution apparently doesn’t like that tradeoff, and again I assume evolution is right.5 Fragile kidneys are much the same. We could have kidneys that try harder to repair themselves. That’s probably biologically possible. But it would likely mean more kidney cancer. Arguably, the question isn’t, “Why are the kidneys such fragile crap?” but rather, “Why is the liver so weirdly regenerative?” OK, so why is the liver so weirdly regenerative? That question has two standard answers. Answer #1 is that the liver has a hard job. It sits directly downstream of the gut. If you eat toxins or bacterial products or viruses or parasites, the liver sees them at high concentrations before the rest of the body. Not only that, it’s the liver’s job to detoxify stuff, and detoxification chemistry is often self-damaging: The liver breaks toxic stuff down into even-more toxic stuff, and then deals with that stuff recursively. The liver is constantly getting damaged, as part of its job description, so it must be able to regenerate. Evolution designed it to do that, and it just pays the cancer tax. Answer #2 is that the liver isn’t unusual. Your skin can survive wounds. And your intestines can survive exposure to digestive enzymes, bile, and bacteria. The surface layers of both of these are constantly turning over. And, lo and behold, skin cancer and colorectal cancer are both very common. At the other end of the spectrum, neurons and cardiac muscle cells don’t reproduce after childhood. If they die, they’re gone.6 As a result, “heart cancer” is almost unheard of. (The very term “heart cancer” almost sounds ungrammatical.) Brain cancer is a thing, but it’s essentially always in other types of brain cells, not neurons. So maybe we can think of different parts of the body as making different tradeoffs between regeneration and cancer risk:7 Organ Regeneration Cancer risk Colon / rectum Extremely high High Bone marrow Extremely high High Skin High High Liver High High-ish Bladder High High-ish Thyroid Medium Medium? Kidneys Low Low-ish Cardiac muscle Near zero Very low Neurons Near zero Near zero At first glance, we seem to have a cute little story: Evolution pays the cancer tax for organs that need to interface with the environment, because it’s a harsh world out there. And it pays the fragility tax for organs that can be tucked away so that regeneration isn’t as necessary. Wouldn’t that be nice? Let’s formalize that as a theory. Theory: More regeneration implies more cancer risk. Evolution tunes organs that encounter the environment for more regeneration and more cancer. It turnes organs that don’t for the opposite. Of course, it’s not that simple. Complexities One problem with the above theory is that it isn’t clear that regeneration is always an option. The skin and guts are pretty homogeneous (at least in each layer). The liver can be approximated as a big blob of repeated functional units. If you give half your liver away, those functional units get larger, which is how your liver grows back to near full size and function. But other organs are highly “structured”. Your neurons are a complex circuit encoding all your memories and learned behaviors. If neurons were reproducing, that circuit might be unstable. Your heart is also highly structured. And even if your heart could re-grow, if you lost half of it, you wouldn’t survive long enough to do so. (Do not attempt to donate half your heart.) In principle, it’s surely physically possible to design a heart where you can remove half and it will still pump enough blood to keep you alive while it re-grows. But evolution either didn’t figure that out, or didn’t think it was worth the trouble. Either way, with the current heart design, high regeneration doesn’t look like an option. So it’s not as simple as evolution choosing to pay the cancer tax for some organs and choosing to pay the fragility tax for others. Some organs need to maintain a stable complex structure to keep working, meaning there may not be much of a cancer/fragility knob to turn. Revised theory: More regeneration implies more cancer risk. Evolution tunes organs that encounter the environment for more regeneration and more cancer. It turnes organs that don’t for the opposite. But for highly structured organs, regeneration might not be an option. Fine. But there are several organs I didn’t include in the above table. For example, look at this: Organ Regeneration Cancer risk Lungs Low-ish High The lungs are the worst of all possible worlds, with low regeneration and high cancer. As far as I can tell, this is a consequence of the physical fact that gas diffusion is slow. To work around that, your lungs have a delicate fractal geometry that crams ~100 square meters of surface area into a ~5 liter volume. That’s impressive, but it makes regeneration hard. At the same time, the lungs need to interface with all sorts of random toxins and pathogens in the air, meaning lots of ways for mutations to happen. Revised theory v2: More regeneration implies more cancer risk. Evolution tunes organs that encounter the environment for more regeneration and more cancer. It turnes organs that don’t for the opposite. But for highly structured organs, regeneration might not be an option. And if highly structured organs encounter the environment, cancer risk is still high. And now, ladies and gentlemen, the stupid pancreas: Organ Regeneration Cancer risk Pancreas Low-ish Moderate Superficially, this looks less exceptional than the lungs, with low-ish regeneration and merely moderate cancer risk. But the pancreas is more problematic for our theory, because that moderate cancer risk exists despite not being exposed to the outside world. Biologically, the reasons that the pancreas sometimes develops cancer seem understood, although complex. But as far as I can tell, there is no convincing explanation for why the pancreas is designed that way. Is it an evolutionary fluke? Is there some other subtle tradeoff? It’s unclear. So there’s no satisfying big-picture evolutionary trade-off to point to. Revised theory v3: More regeneration implies more cancer risk. Evolution tunes organs that encounter the environment for more regeneration and more cancer. It tunes organs that don’t for the opposite. But for highly structured organs, regeneration might not be an option. And if highly structured organs encounter the environment, cancer risk is still high. And the pancreas is weird. But we still need to face the final boss, the strangest organ of all. The small intestine Organ Regeneration Cancer risk Small intestine Extremely high Very low Bad news for our theory, good news for you as a biological organism. The small intestine does interface with the environment, and it replaces all its surface-level cells every few days. Yet it very rarely develops cancer. That’s despite the fact that it’s quite similar to the cancer-crazed colon. It’s also despite the fact that the “small” intestine makes up ~90% of the digestive tract’s surface area. What the hell? Biologically, the main explanation seems to be that the small intestine uses an ingenious defense strategy. My new favorite part of the body: While the surface cells of the small intestine are continuously being replaced, they aren’t themselves reproducing. Instead, carefully protected stem cells tucked into the valleys between the intestinal villi slowly produce “transit-amplifying cells”. Those transit-amplifying cells divide 4-6 times as they migrate to the surface, each eventually yielding 16-64 mature epithelial cells. Those spend a few days doing epithelial stuff, meanwhile sliding along with their siblings from the bottom to the top of whichever villus they happen to be on. When they reach the tip, they’re ejected into the digestive stream to die, merry Christmas. So, even if a mutation arises somewhere, it doesn’t really matter, because the cells are all on a conveyor belt towards death anyway. Clever, no? Turns out, the real hero isn’t the liver. It’s the small intestine. (The small intestine also uses a few other tricks: The surface cells are programmed to commit suicide if damaged even a little bit. The immune system is tuned to kill anything that looks even slightly funny. And it hosts huge amounts of detoxifying enzymes. But villi seem to be the really unique bit.) This is a huge challenge for our theory. Not only does the small intestine have low cancer and high regeneration, it has low cancer because of high regeneration. If the small intestine can do that, then why not the rest of the body? One answer is that it takes a ton of energy. Your guts shed ~40 billion epithelial cells every day, amounting to ~⅓ kg of tissue every week. Like the brain, your guts consume ~20% of total energy, despite making up only ~2% of body mass. Evolution doesn’t want to do that everywhere, because evolution doesn’t want you to starve to death. So, there isn’t just a trade-off between regeneration and cancer. There’s a three-way tradeoff between regeneration, cancer, and energy usage. But even if energy weren’t an issue, other organs couldn’t easily copy the small intestine’s strategy. For example, the colon is similar in many ways to the small intestine, but the colon doesn’t have villi. It needs to be flat, because the colon’s job is to extract water. If there were villi dangling everywhere, they’d be ripped off by the solid waste. The colon also hosts far more bacteria that produce toxic byproducts, meaning the colon’s cells need to be tuned to try to resist damage, instead of committing suicide. This also means that the immune system needs to be more relaxed about killing foreign entities. So even though the colon also replaces the epithelial cells (a bit more slowly) cancer is still common. (Or, imagine your skin was covered in tiny fragile villi. You’d look awesome, but they’d be constantly getting ripped off. If you wanted that to work, you’d need to make the villi stronger and more disposable, and… we just invented fur.) Revised theory v4 final (actually final) updated (2): More regeneration implies more cancer risk. Evolution tunes organs that encounter the environment for more regeneration and more cancer. It tunes organs that don’t for the opposite. But for highly structured organs, regeneration might not be an option. And if highly structured organs encounter the environment, cancer risk is still high. And the pancreas is weird. And actually, it’s not just a trade-off between regeneration and cancer, it’s a three-way trade-off between regeneration and cancer and energy usage, and various parts of that space may or may not be available depending on the job an organ has to do. So, a cancer vs. fragility tradeoff definitely doesn’t explain everything. But it does explain some things, somewhat, sort of. In biology, that’s pretty good. Is this bad? We’ve discussed various ways in which the body might appear to be crap. Let’s revisit those, and ask if the right tradeoff is being made for the modern world. Injuries. Your skin is calibrated for constant wounds, which most of us today don’t get. This leaves lots of repair pathways sitting around to be hijacked by skin cancer. Similarly, your bone marrow is calibrated to be able to recover from catastrophic blood loss. Today we don’t experience as much catastrophic blood loss, and we have blood transfusions, but all that generative capacity is still there to be used by leukemia and lymphoma. And whatever benefit there might have been to re-growing a limb is probably lower today, when we less often lose limbs. Best guess: It would be better if the body tried less hard to recover from injuries. Brains. Do modern people suffer fewer brain injuries than our evolutionary ancestors? It’s hard to say for sure, because brains are soft tissue. But the fossil record for upper paleolithic humans suggests between 2% and 34% suffered skull fractures, more than modern people. So you might think it would be better if the brain was tuned more towards fragility rather than cancer. But brain injuries are still common today. Around ⅓ of people experience a concussion sometime in their lifetime, because we love to drive cars at high speed, play dangerous sports, and survive to old age where stairs and bathrooms pose a risk. Also, for whatever reason, the brain is already tuned quite strongly towards fragility. Best guess: Maybe the current tradeoff is about right? Telomeres. Should the body re-lengthen the telomeres? On the one hand, we’re more likely to survive to ages where this is actually an issue. On the other hand, we’re also more likely to survive to ages where cancer is a danger, which is precisely where telomeres not getting re-lengthened is an issue. Best guess: Maybe the current tradeoff is about right? Livers. It seems that the liver is so regenerative because it needed to be. Ancestral humans were constantly dealing with parasites and bacteria and rotting food. When I started writing this essay, I figured this meant the liver was “over-specced” for the modern world. Today we have refrigerators and food inspectors and pasteurization. Our lives are much less harsh and involve fewer toxins than our ancestors. So, if calibrated for the modern environment, I figured that it would be better if the liver was a bit more fragile, but also marginally less prone to cancer.8 But… it’s not clear that this is actually true. Liver failure remains extremely common today. While we don’t ingest nearly as many toxins, we eat diets that lead to metabolic dysfunction, and we consume tons of alcohol, and many of us live in dense conditions where hepatitis can easily spread. We’re also more likely to live to an age where liver failure is an issue. Best guess: Unclear. We should stop doing stuff that causes liver failure. Menopause. Why do humans have menopause, unlike almost all other mammals? The most common theory is the grandmother hypothesis. The general idea is that reproducing becomes more and more risky as you get older. For most animals, evolution doesn’t care, because evolution’s goal isn’t to make you happy, it’s to maximize reproductive fitness. So, screw it, try to reproduce and let the dice fall where they may. But even after reproducing, humans can help the survival of their genes by providing resources for their offspring. So, for humans, evolution decided to turn reproduction off, so you can spend more time with your grandkids. In particular, with cancer, some theorize that continued cycles of estrogen cause damage to the ovaries, womb, and breasts. Menopause shuts this down,which may decrease the odds of ovarian / uterine / breast cancer. It’s a cute theory. But again: Menopause: Humans, killer whales, pilot whales, beluga whales, false killer whales, narwhals one group of chimps in Uganda. No menopause: Everything else, including elephants, other whales, lions, horses, zebras, dogs, rats, wolves, birds, reptiles, amphibians, fish. Some of this makes sense. Unlike toothed whales, Blue/Humpback whales are mostly solitary or live in loose groups. Mice don’t babysit for their grandkids. But what about elephants? Or hyenas? Or bonobos? Or orangutans? Or lions? Or sperm whales? All of these have social organizations where females contribute to the survival of their offspring, and yet they don’t have menopause. Anyway, is menopause the right tradeoff for the modern age? It’s hard to say. On the one hand, modern people live much longer, meaning the marginal cost of cancer is higher. On the other hand, people want to reproduce more at older ages, meaning menopause has a higher cost. (Both “to evolution” and “to us”.) Also, an ancestral woman began menstrating in her late teens, and then likely underwent many pregnancies, each followed by years-long periods of breastfeeding (which suppresses menstruation). An average modern woman experiences 3-5 times as many menstrual cycles. It’s very confusing. Best guess: No idea. Cell junk / diabetes / transplants. As far as I can tell, these are mostly unrelated. TLDR Cancer is bad because cancer is bad. Cancer is also bad because evolution made gruesome realpolitik compromises in the design of every part of the body to try to hold cancer in check. If we lived in a universe where cancer was impossible, we wouldn’t just not get cancer, our bodies would also be enormously more regenerative and longer lasting. In a sense, even if you don’t get cancer, cancer still hurts you, because your body was forced to take costly preventative actions. (Even if the barbarians never get over your city wall, you still had to build the wall.) Even if we someday completely defeat cancer, its legacy will live on in our genes until the point that we re-design ourselves. Screw cancer. Some people think linear DNA is easier to copy. Others think that linear DNA just happened by accident, but when it happened it was survivable because we happened to have retrotransposons, i.e. bits of DNA that build little machines to create new copies of their DNA and insert it into the genome. After the break in the circular chromosome, those machines started putting copies of their DNA on the end, because that’s what they do, and this made the break survivable. Those retrotransposons later became telomerase. ↩ This is teleological; let’s not let it come between us. ↩ This could happen because your immune system contains them. Or because oxygen and nutrients can’t diffuse inside the clump of mutated cells. Or because they run into a barrier of different cell types that they can’t outcompete. Or for other reasons. ↩ Hello biologists! You might be thinking, “Well actually, 90% of cancers turn telomerase back on; clearly telomeres don’t help that much; Dynomight why are you so bad?” That is approximately what the Dynomight Biologist thought, when pressed into service to review this post. True, having telomeres that wear down is not a magic bullet that makes cancer impossible. And yes, most cancers figure out how to turn telomerase on. But that is a linguistic fact. Your body has lots of mutated cells all over the place, most of which will never hurt you. Conceivably, we could have defined all mutated cells as “cancer”, with subcategories of “low risk to health” and “significant risk to health”. Then, telomeres would seem great, because it’s hard for cells to move from “low risk” to “high risk” without figuring out how to turn telomerase on. That’s hard to do through blind random mutation, which is one reason most of your mutated cells are in the “low risk” category. Cells do sometimes succeed in turning telomerase on, but it’s still a useful layer in body’s layered cancer defense strategy. We didn’t happen to define our words that way. Instead, we defined “cancer” to mean approximately “mutated cells that pose a significant risk to health” and we’ve invented other categories for other mutated cells (benign neoplasm, clonal expansion, hyperplasia, etc.) The “cancer” category excludes most cells that don’t turn telomerase on because telomere shortening is a good (albeit leaky) barrier between mutated cells and risks to your health. Just because Vikings sometimes get past your city wall doesn’t mean that a city wall is not worth having. Thank you for visiting my footnote. ↩ The precise reasons that salamanders can regrow limbs but most species can’t is somewhat unclear. You could speculate that salamanders tend to lose limbs more frequently, so it’s more worth it for them to pay the “cancer tax”. Or you could speculate that cancer isn’t as much of an issue due to their short lifetime. But do they actually have an unusually high frequency of needing to regrow limbs? And are they paying some kind of cancer tax? What would we even look at to determine that? Cancer rates vary in different animals for all kinds of reasons. ↩ Dead cardiac muscle is replaced with scar tissue. Dead neurons are replaced with a “brain scar” made of glial cells. ↩ Thyroid cancer risk is hard to rate, because it’s common but has a very low fatality rate. ↩ You wouldn’t want to make the liver unable to regenerate, but there are several “knobs” that might be tuned. Broadly speaking, the liver could be designed to regenerate more slowly, with more careful “proofreading” and slower/stricter cell-cycle checkpointing. Then liver injuries would take longer to heal, but would result in fewer mutated cells. ↩
It might seem a bit out of character for a powerful general—a fierce warrior—to go everywhere with a book tucked under their arm. But in ancient Rome, that was the figure that the great Scipio Aemilianus cut. He was known for training in philosophy as arduously as he trained at arms. Flash forward to General […] The post No One Is Excused From This appeared first on Daily Stoic.
Thoughts on surrendering to the here and now and doing the best with the information we have in any given moment