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More in travel

I've been to see some art

I've been to see some art. Serpentine Galleries Giuseppe Penone: Thoughts in the Roots (until 7 September) [exhibition guide] Arpita Singh: Remembering (until 27 July) Serpentine Pavilion 2025 by Marina Tabassum (until 26 September) medical capsule, much enlarged, chopped up into four ribbed slices. The chops help embrace the open air but also let the rain in, as I discovered when I dashed inside during a cloudburst and realised I was still getting wet. The interior feels a bit like a waiting room, all peripheral seating plus the obligatory hot drinks offering at the far end. Vision 1, Functionality 0. Play Pavilion (until 10 August) White Cube Richard Hunt: Metamorphosis – A Retrospective (until 29 June) Richard Hunt. I really liked his late period plantlike spikes but could have done without the formative prequels. It's so purely presented that Richard and his oeuvre only really made sense once I'd watched the four minute looping video showing him hard at work in a cluttered industrial workshop. National Gallery The Carracci Cartoons: Myths in the Making (Room 1, until 6 July) (on a practical note the horrific queues that blighted the gallery last autumn have all died down - I waited no seconds whatsoever at the main entrance) National Portrait Gallery Stanisław Wyspiański: Portraits (until 13 July) Lines of Feeling (until 4 January) Photo Portrait Now (until 28 September) Newport Street Gallery Raging Planet (until 31 August) The Power and the Glory (until 31 August) visited recently and found it uncomfortable, not especially artistic and eminently skippable. I left reassured that all the photos were from before I was born so we've learned since, and unnerved that we might not have learned at all. Tate Modern UK AIDS Memorial Quilt (until 16 June) UK AIDS Memorial Quilt, created to commemorate lives lost in the 80s and 90s, is out of long-term storage and back on view for one weekend only. The Turbine Hall is the perfect place to lay out 42 colourful twelve foot panels remembering 384 people who died in the AIDS epidemic, commemorated here with love and creativity by their friends (and sometimes family). Some were well known names - Robert the photographer, Mark the activist, Christopher from Blue Peter - others shone brightly in their own corner. Each panel is unique, from simple symbolism to complex reminiscence, with red ribbons, rainbows and teddy bears frequently seen. In most cases you can only guess at the backstory from pictorial clues. It's the dates that really hit home, so many born in the 50s and 60s cut down in their 30s and 40s, and a few babies lost at barely two months for added shock. Some who've come to Tate Modern to see the quilts plainly remember the struggle first time round, and in a sign of quite how far things have moved on I also saw a teacher leading her primary class round the fabric cemetery and pointing out names and memories. If you can't pay your respects in person several panels are explorable on the Memorial Quilt's website. Bow Arts Gallery Bow Open: Connections (until 31 August) well chuffed to have had his systematic imprint selected. The most fun work by far is Campbell McConnell's 90 second video of medieval actresses repeatedly overacting. The space out the back is totally wasted. Try not to tread on the fabric snake. Halcyon Gallery - 146 New Bond Street Point Blank by Bob Dylan (until 6 July) The Beaten Path, which was also exhibited here, and there was his reinterpretation of my snap of Blackpool Pier on page 228... and 229... and 231. You have to smile, and I did just that all the way back out onto the Mayfair streets.

12 hours ago 1 votes
The Banstead Loop

If you ever fancy a cheap excursion into Surrey by train, all without travelling beyond zone 6, try the Banstead Loop. It's not technically a loop, you have to get off and walk in the middle, also that's not an official name (it just passes through what used to be Banstead Urban District). But the Banstead Loop does spin by the finest racecourse near London, also it only takes an hour and ten minutes from Purley to Sutton, like so. Purley: This zone 6 metropolis needs no further introduction. Reedham: One of London's 10 least used stations (being quite near Purley). Coulsdon Town: Used to be called Smitham prior to 2011. Even fewer passengers than Reedham. Woodmansterne: Still in London, just, by 500m. Not in the village of Woodmansterne, more Coulsdon West. I blogged about the station and its hinterland in some depth in 2018. Chipstead:: Full bloggage two months ago. In short, the railway arrived in 1897 and a commuter village grew up in the valley. It's just the right side of posh, thus sadly no chip shop. Its finest feature is Banstead Woods, an expansive ancient woodland on the chalk escarpment. If you have the time it's probably the nicest place on the loop to stop off, but best carry on. Kingswood Kingswood is a sprawling non-nucleated village of ancient origin which was transformed by the railway. It's also almost relentlessly posh, with swirls of arcadian housing on large plots behind mighty hedges. The man who sold the local manorial estate to the housing developers was Cosmo Bonsor, a brewery manager turned Conservative MP who moved fast. He bought Kingston Warren in 1885, joined the South Eastern Railway Board in 1894, encouraged the development of a railway to Kingswood (arriving 1897) and then disposed of 640 acres of land in 1906. The turreted manor house was eventually bought by the BBC to house its Research & Design department, making Kingswood Warren the birthplace of stereo radio and Ceefax, but they evacuated in 2010 and the big house now does luxury nuptials full time. You'll see none of this from the station. impressively large 'kiss and ride' loop, a turnaround where cars can drop off stockbrokers on the way to the office, or wait to pick them up again on the way back. For a village where most houses own multiple vehicles there's no decent-sized car park, only a recognition that nobody wants to walk home if they can possibly avoid it. The sole watering hole hereabouts is The Kingswood Arms, another sturdy Tudorbethan mock-up, and beyond that a short parade where hair and beauty solutions proliferate. Until 2017 the biggest local employer by far was Legal and General, a short hike up Furze Hill, but their building's currently being turned into "a vibrant later living community with 270 specialist age-appropriate apartments", or old-people's home in the old vernacular. Money talks in Kingswood, always has. Tadworth Tadworth, once a hamlet on the Reigate Road, now a substantial suburban village for all the usual railway-related reasons. It's also the furthest you can live outside London and still travel in from zone 6, at least south of the river, such are the historic vagaries of the fare system. It feels like a proper community as soon as you step outside the station, or at least after you've schlepped up the ramp, with a couple of short shopping parades to either side of the cutting. The smallest outlet does repairs and alterations in a delightfully retro cubbyhole, and the largest is an actual travel agent with two staff ready at their desks to coax pension overspill into funding a short hop to the Channel Islands or the safari of a lifetime. Most notably the old station building has been taken over in its entirety by a meze bar called The Bridge, this being its location, with live crooning from Martin on offer every Friday night. We still have one more stop to go. Tattenham Corner Tattenham Corner, less than 200m from the grass that horses thunder round, where once seven platforms were needed to cope with passenger traffic on race days. Today there are only three, much of the surplus having been replaced by a long cul-de-sac called Emily Davison Drive, she being the Suffragette who threw herself under the King's horse at the adjacent bend. The austere terminus would have been rammed last Saturday for the Derby but is otherwise anything but, so heaven knows how the member of staff in the modern ticket office fills their time from (gosh) before 6am to (blimey) after 10pm. Just outside the station the main road actually crosses the racecourse, or at least the starting spur for the five furlong dash. It's amazing to stand there looking down across the entire course, the grandstand and the Mole Valley beyond, plus all the downland in the centre has public access should you fancy a wander. A huge pub called Tattenham Corner is elevated alongside, a true moneyspinner last week and with plenty of room on the front terrace otherwise. If you've ever been to the races here you'll know how glorious the location is, and if not be reassured you don't need a top hat or fascinator to soak in this scenic corner of the North Downs. Epsom Downs nine-platform terminus was needed to meet peak demand. Even the opening of Tattenham Corner didn't initially lead to a slimming down, and only in 1969 did British Rail finally cut the number of platforms to two, then in 1989 to one. What exists today is a runty platform with minimal facilities, the 1980s station building having since been converted to a kindergarten. What's more the last 400m of track has been converted into a redbrick cul-de-sac of about 80 homes called Bunbury Way. As a cunning way of alleviating housing pressure it's brilliant and as an additional labyrinth which passengers now have to negotiate before catching sight of a train it's pure masochism, indeed I only reached my departing train with two minutes to spare. Much more about the Epsom Downs branch here. Banstead: A single-platform halt beside a timber yard, accessed down glum stairs, not close enough to the centre of Banstead to be properly useful. Very nearly in London but not quite. I'm due to write about it as part of my 'One Stop Beyond' series so I won't say more now, not that there is much. Belmont: A single-platform halt with no redeeming features, essentially austerity writ large, just over the Greater London boundary. Sutton: This zone 5 metropolis needs no further introduction. It's not "the most scenic railway lines you can enjoy with an Oyster card" as MyLondon once dubiously attested. But it has its moments, the Banstead Loop, and you may never have been to any of it.

yesterday 2 votes
Bakerloop and beyond

In April 2024 Sadiq Khan proposed introducing an express 'Bakerloop' bus route in lieu of a Bakerloo line extension. It was part of a proposed doubling of the Superloop network. BL1: Waterloo → Elephant & Castle → Burgess Park → Old Kent Road → New Cross Gate → Lewisham January 2025 TfL launched a consultation for the Bakerloop route and also covered a double decker with brown vinyl to promote the occasion. Yesterday TfL revealed the consultation results and confirmed that the BL1 will start in the autumn. • The northbound stop outside Lewisham station has been removed to help speed up the route. This leaves three stops in central Lewisham, one at Loampit Vale which is 150m away from Lewisham station, so it's no great loss. • Route 453, which shadows the BL1 between Elephant & Castle and New Cross, will have its frequency reduced. We don't know by how much. It currently runs 8 times an hour for most of the day. The press release doesn't mention a start date, only "the autumn", but it's almost certainly going to be Saturday 27th September because a separate announcement yesterday confirmed that's the day the contract to operate the BL1 begins. Subject to consultation, the next phase of the expansion would include a new SL13 service, travelling between Ealing Broadway and Hendon; a new SL14 service, travelling between Stratford bus station and Chingford Hatch; and a new SL15 service travelling between Clapham Junction and Eltham station. This is the map of 'Superloop 2' that the Mayor tweeted in April last year as part of his election campaign, but I've recoloured it. In grey are the ten existing Superloop routes, SL1-SL10. brown is the new Bakerloop route, BL1. (I've had to extend it to Waterloo because that wasn't the original plan) blue are the five proposed Superloop routes that now have a number, SL11-SL15. SL11: North Greenwich → Woolwich → Thamesmead → Abbey Wood 472. It will in fact replace route 472 but only stop in select locations, with other routes picking up the slack at unserved stops inbetween. Introducing it will actually save TfL some money. The consultation for the SL11 closed in April. SL12: Gants Hill → Romford → Elm Park → Rainham 66, which from experience is already pretty speedy as it hurtles along the A12. The eastern end will be a very welcome north-south link in a borough whose railways run west-east and where existing bus routes have a tendency to meander rather than run direct. Most innovatively the Rainham terminus will be at the remote estuarine Ferry Lane industrial estate. The consultation for the SL12 closed in May. SL13: Ealing Broadway → Hanger Lane → Brent Cross → Hendon 112, and quite what it means for the frequency of that route remains to be seen. SL14: Stratford → Walthamstow → Chingford Hatch 69/97 corridor out of Stratford and then entirely replace the 357, but only the consultation will tell us that. SL15: Clapham Junction → Eltham I see we've abandoned all pretence that Superloop routes are numbered in a logical way. The first ten were supposedly numbered clockwise starting in the north, whereas these five are numbered all over the place in order of introduction. yellow routes, notionally SL16-SL20, which could/should follow on later. • Harrow to Barnet (via Edgware): There are many possible routes from Harrow to Edgware so the chosen path is hard to call but I suspect it'll follow the 186, then the 384 from Edgware to Barnet. • Barnet to Chingford (via Enfield): This outer orbital will probably shadow the 307 to Enfield, then 313 to Chingford, maybe. • Richmond to Wimbledon (via Roehampton): This'll head round the east side of Richmond Park and Wimbledon Common, most likely shadowing the 493 and then the 93. • Ealing Broadway to Kingston (via Richmond): This is plainly an express 65, a busy frequent route on roads often clogged and slow, so it's not clear how it'd be much faster. • Hounslow to Hammersmith (via Great West Road): The clue here is 'via Great West Road' which strongly suggests an express H91, potentially also using the A4 to skip the traffic in Chiswick. maybe twenty, and even less of a Loop than it ever was.

3 days ago 3 votes