I have recently returned from an excellent tour to Colombia that I led for Quest Nature Tours. This was my third time guiding in Colombia, following excellent trips in 2020 and 2022. Those previous tours covered a lot of ground, in the eastern Andes near Bogotá, the Central Andes between Pereira and Medellín, and the Santa Marta Mountains and Guajira Desert located in the far north. This 2025 tour was different as we only focused on the Central Andes portion over ten days. This eliminated all of the internal flights, it cut down on driving time, and it allowed us to have more time to thoroughly explore each site. Following the main tour, I traveled to the Juan Solito Ecolodge in the northeast of the country with four of the travellers and our local guide Cris, where we had four nights in the llanos to search for a huge array of birds as well as other specialties of the region including Jaguar and Green Anaconda.  Crescent-faced Antpitta Andean Cock-of-the-Rock Bar-crested Antshrike Twelve enthusiastic travellers joined Cris and I in the town of La Florida, situated a short drive from the beautiful montane forests of Otún Quimbaya. As dawn broke, a Rufous-bellied Nighthawk flew over the clearing at El Cedral, and we experienced a delicious Colombian breakfast while listening to the dawn chorus. For the rest of the morning we marvelled at mixed bird flocks and enjoyed the high diversity of this region. The Cauca Guan is an endangered species found in a small region of the central Andes of Colombia, and we succeeded with amazing views of them. We also studied White-capped Tanagers, Red-ruffed Fruitcrows, Andean Motmots and Pale-eyed Thrushes, while mixed flocks contained the endemic Multicoloured Tanager and scarce flycatchers like the Variegated Bristle-Tyrant and Bronze-olive Pygmy-Tyrant. Meanwhile, Torrent Ducks were easily found along the Río Otún which was flowing quickly after the recent rains. A feast for the senses! Cauca Guans Vettius sp. Black Phoebe Andean Motmot Red-ruffed Fruitcrow Torrent Duck We moved on to a site just west of Manizales called Hotel Tinamú Birding Nature Reserve. This is a relatively new property that I had never visited before. It consists of regenerating dry forest in an area that formerly contained coffee plantations, and the species composition is much different than the humid montane forest we had just left at Otún Quimbaya. Our comfortable rooms were located in a clearing in the forest, and active tanager and hummingbird feeders could be enjoyed from our front porches.  Blue-gray Tanager Monarch (Danaus plexippus) Some of the bird specialties at Hotel Tinamú include a couple of localized species that have been trained to come into feeding stations - the Gray-headed Dove and Blue-lored Antbird (we succeeded with both). We found leks of Golden-collared Manakin and Green Hermit, while birding the road in scrubbier areas produced Colombian Speckle-breasted Wren, Bar-crested Antshrike, Ultramarine Grosbeak and, best of all, a quartet of Greyish Piculets (an endemic species to this valley) which provided incredible, "walk-away" views.  Blue-lored Antbird Streaked Flycatcher Grayish Piculets One evening, I set up my moth trap in the garden which produced a nice variety of moths, rove beetles, stone flies, leafhoppers, scarabs and much more! Unidentified leafhopper (family Cicadellidae) Eois camptographata Unidentified stonefly (family Perlidae) Unidentified leafhopper (family Cicadellidae) Pelidnota prasina Oxyptera laeta We moved eastwards towards the imposing Los Nevados National Park, where several volcanoes reach high above 4000 m in elevation. Before reaching these heights, we spent two days in montane forest at different elevations: Owl's Watch at around 2600 m, and Hacienda El Bosque at 3100 m. This gave our bodies time to acclimate to the elevation differences, while it also afforded us the chance to find a high diversity of birds that we wouldn't see elsewhere on the tour.  Hooded Mountain-Tanager Blue-capped Tanager At Owl's Watch we had amazing encounters with Black-billed Mountain-Toucans and an endemic Brown-banded Antpitta, both of which came into feeding stations. Though we dealt with persistent rain and fog this day, the birding was still very active with many species including White-throated Daggerbill, Rufous-crowned Tody-Flycatcher, a dozen hummingbird species and a recently-fledged White-capped Dipper. Black-billed Mountain-Toucan Long-tailed Sylph Rufous-crowned Tody-Flycatcher Hacienda El Bosque is a must-visit site for any birder in the Manizales area. This property was amazing during my first visit in 2020 and it has only been improved. The star of the show, a Crescent-faced Antpitta, is still attending a feeding station, as are Gray-breasted Mountain-Toucans, Equatorial Antpittas, Andean and Sickle-winged Guans, White-browed Spinetails, Barred Fruiteaters, Hooded Mountain-Tanagers and Grass Wrens, among other species! And to top it off, a new restaurant has been built at the upper elevations where we enjoyed one of the best lunches of the trip.  Crescent-faced Antpitta Gray-breasted Mountain-Toucan Gray-breasted Mountain-Toucan Sickle-winged Guan Grass Wren Yellow-bellied Chat-Tyrant Barred Fruiteater Hummingbird diversity was high and we observed the species with the longest bill (Sword-billed Hummingbird) and the shortest bill (Purple-backed Thornbill). A distant Andean Pygmy-Owl called from up the hillside and we found a nice mixed flock as well. We all came away with many highlights and photos from Hacienda El Bosque! Sword-billed Hummingbird Rufous-breasted Chat-Tyrant Our base for the next two nights was the picturesque Termales del Ruiz hotel, situated in the upper reaches of the cloud forest at 3500 m. Not only is this hotel conveniently located to explore Los Nevados National Park, but the hummingbird feeders are very active while the birding along the roadside can be excellent. And of course, going for a dip in the lovely waters of the hot springs feels fantastic after a day of birding. Tawny Antpitta   We lucked out with clear weather during our morning near the gates for the national park.  Overlooking Los Nevados National Park This was the highest elevation that we would see on this trip at 4138 m, and it is at this site where a unique hummingbird can be found. The Buffy Helmetcrest is a specialist of the páramo habitat and Los Nevados National Park is the only place in the world where it can be sought out. The temperatures are only a few degrees above freezing every single night of the year, and this solidly-built hummingbird can withstand these tough environmental conditions and even thrive in them. We experienced amazing views of a male Buffy Helmetcrest, along other high-elevation specialists like Andean Tit-Spinetail, Tawny Antpitta and Viridian Metaltail.  Buffy Helmetcrest We explored some other habitats slightly lower down on this mountain. An alpine lake held several Andean Teals and Andean Ducks, while we successfully called in a Páramo Tapaculo to the roadside, allowing great views for everyone. Mixed flocks in the higher montane forest held species like Blue-backed Conebill, Great Sapphirewing, Scarlet-bellied Mountain-Tanager and Crowned Chat-Tyrant, while we also heard Ocellated Tapaculos and Equatorial Antpittas. Unfortunately, the scarce Rufous-fronted Parakeets mostly eluded us, as we had a quick flyover in the fog and nothing more. The plant life in the páramo is surprisingly diverse and we encountered many interesting and showy species. Páramo Tapaculo Senecio formosus Barberry (Berberis sp.) Eccremocarpus viridis We left the cool temperatures of the high Andes behind and ventured northward along the Cauca Valley to the town of Jardín, our base for the next three nights. Situated on the eastern flank of the western Andes, the verdant, epiphyte-laden forest is one of the few strongholds of the endangered Yellow-eared Parrot. This species is an example of a conservation success story in Colombia. Mainly because of habitat restoration (including the regeneration of wax palms, its nesting tree) and an extensive education campaign, the numbers of this beautiful parrot have rebounded from just 81 known individuals in 1999 to around 2,600 individuals today. We were treated to great flyover views of at least 25 individuals; a welcome sight especially considering the previous low numbers of this species. We also succeeded with the endemic Chamí Antpitta as well as a Chestnut-naped Antpitta, while the meals that we were served by a local family at El Roble were some of the best of the trip!  Chestnut-naped Antpitta Chamí Antpitta Yellow-eared Parrots Buff-tailed Coronet The town of Jardín is also home to two avian spectacles that have to be seen to be believed. For several decades, a lekking ground for the Andean Cock-of-the-Rock has persisted on the outskirts of town. Males strut their stuff, showcasing their slick dance moves and outrageous plumage for the more subdued females. She watches quietly from her perch, her discerning eye picking the male that is most fit to be the father of her future offspring.  Watching this exhibition at arms-length was cited as a trip highlight for everyone.  Andean Cock-of-the-Rock Moustached Puffbird The other spectacle that we were lucky to witness was a nesting area for the Oilbird. The Oilbird is one of the strangest bird species found in the Neotropics. Though superficially resembling a nightjar, they are in fact the only living member of the family Steatornithidae as well as the order Steaornithiformes. Oilbirds are unique in that they are a nocturnal frugivore, while they also use a primitive form of echolocation! Oilbirds roost somewhere secluded during the day, often deep in a cave or within an inaccessible gorge next to a flowing river, and at night they get to work. Oilbirds fly around in search of lipid-rich oil palms or tropical laurel fruits. They are well-adapted to this as they possess extremely large, sensitive eyes, while they also produce audible clicking sounds which act as a sort of echolocation. Their behaviour is more like a fruit bat than any bird. Oilbirds Oilbirds Crossing the river near Jardín, Antioquia, Colombia To see these Oilbirds, we embarked on a long walk deep into the gorge of a montane river, then crossed the river via a swinging bridge (while using a safety harness) to get to the site opposite the Oilbird nests. In case you were wondering, the nests are made entirely out of bird droppings. It was a privilege to spend some time near these unique birds! At this site we also enjoyed a very productive feeder setup that hosted several other endemic Colombian birds - the Red-bellied Grackle and Colombian Chachalaca.  Red-bellied Grackle Green Jay Colombian Chachalaca On our final day of the tour we began with a morning of exploration in the dry forests next to the Cauca River near the town of Bolombolo. The species composition here was different, yet again. We had two main bird targets here, both being endemic species to this valley, including the Apical Flycatcher and Antioquia Wren. We succeeded with both while we also found Scarlet-fronted Parakeet, Moustached Puffbird, Black-striped Sparrow and Greyish Piculet, along with dozens of butterflies.  Apical Flycatcher Cydno Longwing (Heliconius cydno) Before arriving at our hotel in Medellín for our farewell dinner, we had one final stop in store. La Romera National Reserve is one of the best places in the world to see the Colombian near-endemic Yellow-headed Manakin. It took a while but eventually we were all awarded with excellent views of this difficult species. Yellow-headed Manakin And in the final few minutes, as we were getting ready to leave, I finally found a snake for the group, an Equatorial Mussarana which was even a new species for yours truly. An excellent way to wrap up a hugely successful tour!  Equatorial Mussurana (Clelia equatoriana) Equatorial Mussurana (Clelia equatoriana) My next post will document our tour extension to the Juan Solito Ecolodge in the northeast of the country.

February 27, 2024 The rains fell sometime after we went to bed and continued through the night, infiltrating our dreams. Light rain was still dripping from the trees as we awoke, and the dawn chorus was proportionally muted.  We had a quick breakfast and by 6:30 were on the small trail system behind the lodge. The mosquitoes were ferocious, and repellent only temporarily thinned them out, providing just a brief reprieve for a few minutes.  Birding was slow given the gloomy conditions but we tried our best to turn up a Blue-cheeked Jacamar or Rufous-necked Puffbird without success. Moises's only strategy was to loudly blast tapes of both species on repeat, so we weren't really surprised with the lack of a response. These types of tactics usually result in the target species being "taped out" in short order, and this is the main place at Muyuna Lodge where most birders try to find these respective species.  However, we finally connected with a Varzea Thrush. The views were brief as it was skittish in the understory, but we heard it singing and calling and I managed a few recordings.  We were also pleased to find a pair of Black-throated Antbirds. This species prefers dense understory growth, often near streams in the forest, and it is never easy to see well or photograph. I managed a few record shots of both the male and the female, representing the first meagre photos I have obtained of this species. If only my autofocus was working then I would have come away with much better results.   Black-throated Antbird (male) - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru Black-throated Antbird (female) - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru Later, we tracked down a pair of Coppery Titi Monkeys (Plecturocebus cupreus) that were duetting at the edge of the forest. In Amazonia there are numerous species of titi monkeys, each separated by range. This species was a new one for us - they are only found in the western Amazon basin in Peru and western Brazil.  Coppery Titi (Plecturocebus cupreus) - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru While the persistent rain may have made birding a little tough, there are certain other types of animals that thrive in these conditions. One particular group are the coral snakes. Laura and I have been fortunate over the years to have encountered numerous coral snakes - we are now up to seven species - but each encounter is never predictable and is to be cherished. Sometimes, heavy rains slightly increase the odds of encountering one. These snakes are typically fossorial, meaning that they spend much of their time living and hunting underground. Heavy rains may temporarily flood them out and bring them to the surface.  All three of us noticed the snake around the same time. "Coral snake!" Evidently the night's rains had stimulated this one to leave its subterranean retreat. This was a subadult Western Ribbon Coralsnake (Micrurus helleri). It was quite feisty and tried to make a quick escape, though we cornered it on the trail so that we could study it for a few minutes. I managed a few poor phone photos in the dim understory, but its erratic movements and the low light levels meant that I was unable to take any good photos with my telephoto. Unfortunately, my macro lens was resting safely back in our room.  Western Ribbon Coralsnake (Micrurus helleri) - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru Still, even without amazing photos we were ecstatic to have found a new species of coral snake for us! It made us forget about the hungry mosquitoes for a few minutes.  Western Ribbon Coralsnake (Micrurus helleri) - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru Next up were these photogenic Cream-colored Woodpeckers near their nesting cavity. The diversity of colours found in Neotropical woodpeckers is high, and the Cream-colored is a flashy one.  Cream-colored Woodpeckers - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru We also turned up this interesting little lizard. This is Cercosaurus argulus, the Elegent Eyed Lizard. This is a rarely seen semi-arboreal species, but we were fortunate in that this individual was foraging in the leaf litter. This is a shade-loving lizard that is rarely found in open sunny conditions.  Elegant Eyed Lizard (Cercosaurus argulus) - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru Laura spotted this Blue-lipped Tree Lizard (Plica umbra) perched on top of a tree buttress. This species seems to be relatively common and easy to encounter; they are usually perched 1-2 meters off the ground and are somewhat conspicuous.  Blue-lipped Tree Lizard (Plica umbra) - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru By mid-morning we returned to the lodge. The sun was now trying to burn through the thick clouds and bird activity was increasing. It was time to head out onto the water for a couple of hours before lunch time.   We were still on the lookout for a few species - namely, the Purple-throated Cotinga - but secondary targets included Wing-barred Seedeater and Gray-chested Greenlet. We slowly cruised along the quiet waterways, scanning the tops of the lush vegetation for perched cotingas. Alas, we were unsuccessful with the primary target.  However, luck was on our side with the other two species. We heard a singing Wing-barred Seedeater and while trying to to track it down, a Gray-chested Greenlet vocalized from the other side of the wetland! Quickly, both species were "in the bag".  Wing-barred Seedeater - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru Wing-barred Seedeater - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru The Gray-chested Greenlet is a widespread species of Amazonia, usually living in flooded forest. It is more localized in the western part of its range which may explain why Laura and I had never seen one before.  Gray-chested Greenlet - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru We headed back to the lodge, our spirits lifted after a productive boat trip.  Laura and I were eager to continue exploring, especially since the morning's birding had been relatively slow with all the rain. Bird activity was still high even at midday as the clouds hadn't disappeared, but Moises was not at all eager to head back out. It took some convincing to have him relent and agree to a 2 PM departure time, instead of the usual 3 PM. The joys of having to be stuck with a guide, especially one who was just going through the motions.  Riverside habitat - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru Our strategy this afternoon was similar to the pre-lunch boat trip. We would cruise slowly along vegetation-choked waterways, scanning the treetops for the cotinga. We had a brief moment of excitement when a female cotinga was found feeding in a fruiting tree. Alas, my terrible record photos confirmed that it was "just" a Plum-throated Cotinga. A great bird, but not the one we were hoping for! Plum-throated Cotinga (female) - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru Even without a Purple-throated Cotinga we really enjoyed our time on the water. Birding was relaxed and productive, with hardly a dull moment. We tallied nearly double-digit species of parrot-types, several Muscovy Ducks, many ant-things and woodcreepers by voice, and quite a few terns, kingfishers and other birds typical of these wetland habitats. There were several Brown-throated Three-toed Sloths (Bradypus variegatus), and we discovered a Horned Screamer nest, home to a couple of baby "screamlets".  Brown-throated Three-toed Sloth (Bradypus variegatus) - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru Horned Screamers - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru As the sun set we tried listening for and playing tapes of Zigzag Heron to no avail. We cruised back to the lodge at dusk. Despite the slow morning, we had still managed to tally around 130 bird species. The diversity in the Amazon is amazing! Laura and I convinced Moises to head back out for a short boat cruise after dark. This time, we did not venture too far from the lodge, focusing on the frogs that were calling from thick vegetation along the edges of the channels.  Pygmy Hatchet-faced Frog (Sphaenorhynchus carneus) - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru Pygmy Hatchet-faced Frogs were one of the dominant voices. This was a new species for us, presumably because they prefer these semi-aquatic, marshy habitats that are not easy to reach (while staying dry) except by boat. Pygmy Hatchet-faced Frog (Sphaenorhynchus carneus) - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru We also noted several Dendropsophus tree frogs in the riverside vegetation as well. Some were left unidentified, though some were likely Dendropsophus triangulum, the Variable Clown Treefrog.  Dendropsophus sp. - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru Variable Clown Treefrog (Dendropsophus triangulum) - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru This particular individual appears to be Dendropsophus reticulatus, the Reticulated Treefrog.  Reticulated Treefrog (Dendropsophus reticulatus) - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru Of course there was a lot of other things of interest to point our flashlights at, including various insects and spiders. Below are some of the others. It was a lot of fun to take photos with my macro lens as it had working autofocus - a nice change after struggling to manual-focus with my telephoto lens during the day.  Ancylometes sp. - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru Stagmatoptera binotata - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru Polka-dot Treefrog (Boana punctata) - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru Unidentified planthopper - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru Alpaida sp. - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru Cuernavaca longula - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru Tetrataenia surinama - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru We returned to the lodge not quite feeling ready for bed just yet. It was only 9 PM and, as it was our last night in the Amazon, we wanted to make the most of things. Laura and I set off on a quick night-hike on the trail system.  First up was a Southern Opossum (Didelphis marsupialis) that was lurking around some of the cabins.  Southern Opossum (Didelphis marsupialis) - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru Next, we braved the mosquitoes on the trail system in search of herps. We couldn't turn up any snakes, but quite a few frogs cooperated. Most were this species, the Red-snouted Treefrog (Scinax ruber), a widespread species found throughout most of South America and locally in the Caribbean and Central America.  Red-snouted Treefrog (Scinax ruber) - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru Red-snouted Treefrog (Scinax ruber) - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru Red-snouted Treefrog (Scinax ruber) - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru We also noted various Cane Toads (Rhinella marina) and Neotropical Grass Frogs (Leptodactylus sp.), as well as a few Sheep Frogs (Hamptophryne boliviana) that were calling from a flooded section.  Cane Toad (Rhinella marina) - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru Leptodactylus sp. - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru Sheep Frog (Hamptophryne boliviana) - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru We spotted this Bridled Forest Gecko (Gonatodes humeralis) sleeping on some trailside vegetation, while a little further along was a gorgeous Yellow-banded Pinktoe Tarantula (Avicularia juruensis). Bridled Forest Gecko (Gonatodes humeralis) - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru Yellow-banded Pinktoe Tarantula (Avicularia juruensis) - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru Yellow-banded Pinktoe Tarantula (Avicularia juruensis) - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru As we were heading back to the lodge, my flashlight caught the eyeshine of a spiny rat in the genus Proechimys. These are some of the most abundant mammals in Amazonia (not including several bat species), but, because they are nocturnal, we haven't seen them too many times before.  Proechimys sp. - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru February 28, 2024 Our final day at Muyuna Lodge. We were up early this morning and under clear skies we motored northward to the Amazon River. Our goal this morning was to attempt to find the last river island specialty we needed in this part of the Amazon, the River Tyrannulet. This species isn't as localized as some of the other species we had already seen along river islands, yet it was still a big hole on our lists that I was eager to fill.  Luckily, it did not take us too long to find a pair of them. They came right in to playback, allowing us to have excellent views of them in the riverside vegetation. My photos leave much to be desired; they were moving too quickly for me to have much success at all with manual-focusing.  River Tyrannulet - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru Moises also took us to his guaranteed site for Sand-colored Nighthawk, as our only view had been of one flying over the river at dusk back at the ExplorNapo Lodge. We quickly found a roosting nightjar and Moises happily proclaimed that we had found a Sand-colored Nighthawk. The only problem, of course, was that it was a Band-tailed Nightjar, which is a common riverside species that we have seen on numerous occasions over the years. Moises wasn't too happy with me challenging his identification, but that is indeed what the bird was. Alas, we were unable to find any real Sand-colored Nighthawks.  Ladder-tailed Nightjar - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru Many birds were active along the main Amazon River. There were signs of the impending spring conditions in the northern hemisphere as well, as many dozens of Fork-tailed Flycatchers and Eastern Kingbirds were flocking together and heading upriver, alongside hundreds of migrant Barn and Bank Swallows.  Eastern Kingbird - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru We returned to the lodge by 9:30 for a late breakfast. Laura and I still had a couple of hours remaining until our departure time and so we went for a final walk on the trails behind the lodge. Perhaps the sunny conditions would make it easier to find our remaining targets, the Blue-cheeked Jacamar and Rufous-necked Puffbird.  Rutela lineola - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru Unidentified brush-footed butterfly (family Nymphalidae) - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru Bird activity was the best we had seen it on these trails and we even found a few mixed flocks to pick through. Butterflies and lizards were also active.  Metamorpha elissa - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru Bridled Forest Gecko (Gonatodes humeralis) - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru Unidentified clearwing butterfly (tribe Ithomiini) - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru Agyrtidia uranophila - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru We returned to the lodge having had a very nice walk behind the trail system, even if the main target birds refused to cooperate. By the time we packed up and left Muyuna, our eBird checklist had reached 100 species for the morning.  Despite the difficulties that we had working with Moises, we still had a really nice visit at Muyuna Lodge. Finding our main target (the Wattled Curassow) on the first morning was a mega highlight. Herps were plentiful and we finished with five species of snakes, including a lifer coral snake. We also found some really interesting lizards including several Northern Caiman Lizards, a species I have wanted to see ever since I was a herp-obsessed teenager. And birding by boat along mega-diverse waterways, with a light breeze cooling us down, was a nice change of pace from slogging it along muddy trails with high temperatures and humidity. Muyuna Lodge is very comfortable and the staff are friendly and accommodating, while the food was excellent. This is a beautiful corner of the world and I hope to return one day.

February 24, 2024 Just outside of the city of Iquitos lies an expansive area containing white-sand forest. The particular forest types that grow on white sand are somewhat uncommon in the Amazon, yet the stunted tree growth provides quite the contrast to "typical" Amazonian rainforest. Over the years quite a few unusual bird species have been found in this white-sand forest outside of Iquitos. Indeed, it was only a few decades ago that a strange gnatcatcher was discovered with canopy flocks here; in 2005, the Iquitos Gnatcatcher was formally described as a new species to science, though some taxonomies consider it a subspecies of the Guianan Gnatcatcher. So far, the Iquitos Gnatcatcher has only been found within the Allpahuayo-Mishana National Reserve.  Laura and I wanted to put in a proper search for the gnatcatcher as well as other specialties of this forest type which includes Ancient Antwren, Mishana Tyrannulet, Allpahuayo Antbird, Brown-banded Puffbird, Brown Nunlet and Zimmer's Tody-Tyrant. We enlisted the assistance of German Coisffman whom we had met a few days earlier at ExplorNapo Lodge. Initially we were prepared to visit on our own, but we decided to enlist German's help because the trail system here can be confusing (and we had no intel), and because he knew of some good areas for the Iquitos Gnatcatcher. Even still, we went in with fairly low expectations of finding the gnatcatcher. It can be extremely tricky and most birders miss it. Ideally we would have had three days at RN Allpahuayo-Mishana, but that was not possible given our itinerary and so one day would have to do.  We arranged for a taxi to drop us off at the entrance and wait while we birded, before bringing us back to Iquitos later in the afternoon. It was a dark, overcast morning with the threat of rain looming in the air and the dawn chorus was muted. We walked in from the road and after fifteen minutes reached the guardhouse where we would pay our fee.  We first tried a side trail that entered the forest near the guardhouse. Despite the gloomy conditions we found some interesting species, including two vocal Brown Nunbirds that we eventually tracked down for some good views. This was the first time seeing this species for Laura and I.  Brown Nunlet - RN Allpahuayo-Mishana, Loreto, Peru A little while later, we tracked down another one of our big targets, the Ancient Antwren. This is another recently described species which is only found in a few areas of white-sand forest in northern Peru, including RN Allpahuayo-Mishana. It is a canopy species that often travels with mixed flocks. Photos were difficult as it was backlit and flitting in the canopy, plus I was dealing with a lens that was unable to autofocus.  Ancient Antwren - RN Allpahuayo-Mishana, Loreto, Peru It was around this time that the rain began to fall in earnest and so we backtracked to the guardhouse. We settled up the entrance fee and then waited out the rain which was now coming down in buckets. It took about an hour, but it finally passed us by. I was anxious to get back on the trail system as it was now mid-morning. However, I was optimistic that the birds would be more active after the rain.  For the rest of the day, German, Laura and I walked slowly along the main entrance trail as well as on various side-trails that cut off of it. German took us to several areas where he had seen the gnatcatcher in the past. We listened carefully for mixed flocks, as this is the best way to cross paths with the gnatcatcher. Some of the mixed flocks were productive and we found a Mishana Tyrannulet in one of them, another target down. But overall the birding was fairly slow and we failed with the gnatcatcher.  Some of the trails hadn't been cleared in some time and we had to scramble around a few large tree-falls.  RN Allpahuayo-Mishana, Loreto, Peru We ventured into an area that often produces Allpahuayo Antbirds, another range-restricted species that we were on the hunt for. We gave it our best shot, but they refused to respond to the tape. The forest was strangely quiet for most of the day.  Waved Woodpecker - RN Allpahuayo-Mishana, Loreto, Peru We found a pair of vocal Brown-banded Puffbrds and tracked one down for photos. This is a species we had only seen before in white-sand forest in Colombia and I was thrilled to photograph it for the first time, even if the photos were pretty poor given the low light, the lack of autofocus, and the puffbirds' penchant for perching in the canopy.  Brown-banded Puffbird - RN Allpahuayo-Mishana, Loreto, Peru We picked up a few more nice sightings throughout the day including a pair of Rufous-backed Stipplethroats and a Striolated Manakin.  Striolated Manakin - RN Allpahuayo-Mishana, Loreto, Peru We managed to cobble together 71 bird species for the eBird list but struck out with the big target, the Iquitos Gnatcatcher, as well as the Allpahuayo Antbird, so it was hard not to be a little disappointed with our visit to RN Allpahuayo-Mishana. Still, it was neat to explore the forest types of the reserve and it was nice to get to know German as well.  That evening Laura and I prepped for the final leg of our Peru trip. In the morning, we had plans to visit Muyuna Lodge for three nights to search for Wattled Curassows and several other specialists of the varzea forest found there.  February 25, 2024 When planning the Amazonian leg of our trip, we strategically picked three lodges to give us a great chance at a wide diversity of species. For the last three nights of our trip we would be at Muyuna Lodge, situated at a low point along the south side of the Amazon where the forest floods each year. Since we were still near the beginning of the rainy season, there was dry land, though our rubber boots were necessary and most of our birding was still done by boat.  Because Muyuna Lodge is located south of the Amazon River, some of the bird species would be new to us. A river as massive as the Amazon can provide a significant barrier for birds, especially for non-migratory forest dwellers like antbirds and puffbirds. The Saturnine Antshrike, for example, is only found south of the river and would be new to us. Same with the Blue-cheeked Jacamar and Rufous-necked Puffbird. Some of my other targets were varzea (flooded forest) specialists, such as Short-tailed Parrot and Varzea Thrush.  However, the main reason we were visiting Muyuna Lodge was for the Wattled Curassow. This endangered species has been nearly hunted to extinction - seemingly a difficult task in the vast Amazon basin. But this is a species that is usually found close to the rivers, and the rivers act as highways for humans. Muyuna Lodge and the surrounding forest is a bit of a sanctuary for the curassows, as the value of the birds as something other than a food source has now been realized. Birders travel here from around the world for a chance to see them.  A driver working for Muyuna transported us out of Iquitos to the docks at San Joaquin de Omaguas. From there, it was only a 45 minute boat trip across the wide Amazon River and down a tributary called the Yanayacu River.  Laura and I were eager to see what we could find, though our guide, Moises wasn't too interested in walking in the forest right after lunch. Our forced siesta concluded around three and the three of us went for a walk in the forest behind the lodge. This area floods annually but for now it could still be traversed with rubber boots.  Female Wire-tailed Manakin - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru We rustled up a nice variety of species including our first Saturnine Antshrike with a mixed flock, though we had no luck with the jacamar or puffbird. Ant-things were well-represented and I was pleased to photograph these Plumbeous Antbirds.  Plumbeous Antbirds - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru Plumbeous Antbirds - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru Moises pointed out this sleeping Yellow-crowned Toró peering out of its roosting hole. These nocturnal spiny rats are typically found in flooded Amazonian forest. Yellow-crowned Toró (Isothrix bistriata) - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru Laura came through with a snake, as she often does. This time it was a huge South American Sipo remaining motionless on a tree buttress. These diurnal hunters have excellent eyesight.  South American Sipo (Chironius multiventris) - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru South American Sipo (Chironius multiventris) - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru Perhaps it was looking for one of these: Blue-lipped Tree Lizard (Plica umbra) - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru Before returning to the lodge, Moises pointed out a tree with several tiny Eastern Pygmy Marmosets clinging to the side. It was too dark for good photos, but we would have more chances with these diminutive primates in the coming days.  After dinner, we headed out by boat for some spot-lighting along the waterways. Overall it was pretty slow, and Moises was only willing to stay out for an hour.  Common Pauraque - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru One highlight was this gorgeous Garden Tree Boa (Corallus hortulana) hanging out next to the river. What a beaut! Garden Tree Boa (Corallus hortulana) - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru Garden Tree Boa (Corallus hortulana) - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru Before calling it a night, I quickly checked my moth trap that I had strung up behind the lodge. There were just a few species present, continuing the befuddling trend of not finding any moths in the Amazon. Maybe it is better later in the rainy season? Crinodes besckei - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru Unidentified prominent moth (family Notodontidae) - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru Anticla antica - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru Trichromia sp. - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru Enyo ocypete - Muyuna Lodge, Loreto, Peru In the morning, we would commence our first search for the Wattled Curassow. Stay tuned.

February 21, 2024 (continued) We sped down the Amazon and made a left at the confluence with the Napo River. The Napo had noticeably less flow, while we also realized that sandbars were also much more numerous, leading to the presence of many wading birds and terns. At around 10:45 AM we pulled up to the docks for the ExplorNapo Lodge. It was shaping up to be another hot day and the bird activity had mostly stopped.  Laura and I were shown to our room and after putting our bags away we grabbed our binoculars and birded a small mixed flock near our room that contained Paradise, Opal-crowned and Green-and-gold Tanagers.  I was looking forward to a new suite of birds here at ExplorNapo Lodge. Our previous few days had been spent at Explorama Lodge which is situated within flooded "varzea" forest, while ExplorNapo has quite a bit of upland, "terra firme" species. To the untrained eye the differences in plant species between these two forest classifications may not be that obvious, but they are, and they lead to unique bird communities as well.   There were around a dozen bird species regularly found at ExplorNapo that I had never seen before and we found one of the targets within half an hour of arriving. Luis, Laura and I had met up for a pre-lunch walk. Joining us was German Coisffman, an Iquitos-based birding guide who was staying at ExplorNapo with his client. I spotted the bird in question, a Purplish Jacamar, perched in the canopy next to the trail. This species is uncommon and thinly distributed in the western Amazon basin in northern Peru and Ecuador, as well as barely into southern Colombia and western Brazil. Purplish Jacamar - ExplorNapo Lodge, Loreto, Peru Laura has a knack for finding snakes and she came through once again. This time, it was a coiled Fer-de-lance, also known as a Common Lancehead, next to the trail that caught her eye.  Common Lancehead (Bothrops atrox) - ExplorNapo Lodge, Loreto, Peru We enjoyed a delicious lunch and short siesta and at 2:15 PM reconvened with Luis and the boatman for an afternoon of birding by boat.  Luis knows every channel leading off from the main Río Napo and we picked our way through flooded forest and took nearly invisible passages to a hidden series of connected oxbow lakes.  Paddling along a quiet Río Napo oxbow, Loreto, Peru My #1 target for the afternoon was Purple-throated Cotinga, a rare resident of the Amazon. Scanning the treetops along quiet waterways seems to be one of the most effective strategies for finding this species, but don't take my word for it because I've never seen one! Unfortunately, I was unable to reverse that trend as we struck out. Black-tailed Trogon - Río Napo oxbow, Loreto, Peru Although the cotinga eluded us, we came away with a nice diversity of bird species and I finished the excursion with 88 species on my eBird list. I particularly enjoyed watching a very cooperative Dot-backed Antbird foraging and singing in the swampy forest. Some of the other birds were new for my Peru list including Hooded Tanager, Cinnamon Attila, Yellow-browed Antbird and Black-chinned Antbird. Dot-backed Antbird - Río Napo oxbow, Loreto, Peru As dusk fell, we found ourselves staked out at a particular quiet oxbow where Luis has occasionally seen Zigzag Herons. These tiny, secretive herons are distributed across the Amazon but aren't very easy to find. I had heard one many years ago in the Ecuadorian Amazon but neither Laura nor I had ever seen one before. Anticipation was high as the sun set. While we waited, a Short-tailed Nighthawk emerged for a night of foraging for flying insects.  Río Napo oxbow, Loreto, Peru The Zigzag Heron was a no-show and so we headed back to the lodge. The final bird was a Sand-colored Nighthawk flying low over the Río Napo, its white wings appearing ghost-like in the beams of our flashlights.  Our day wasn't over just yet, however. After dinner we had plans to visit the famous Amazon Conservatory of Tropical Studies (ACTS) Field Station and its famous canopy walkway. This is an excellent site to look for the very secretive Nocturnal Curassow. We planned to do a search of the curassow, spend the night at the field station, and bird the canopy walkway the following morning.  By the light of the moon, we boated up a tributary, but due to low water levels the boat could only make it about half way to the field station and we had to walk the rest of the way. We dropped our bags off at the station and headed out for a magical visit to the canopy walkway. This Two-Toed Sloth was also interested in exploring the canopy walkway, and we followed her for a while until she found a suitable tree to detour along.  Linnaeus's Two-toed Sloth (Choloepus didactylus) - ACTS Field Station/Canopy Tower, Loreto, Peru Above the trees yet under a canopy of stars, we watched the forest and listened to Crested Owls, Black-banded Owls, and at least three Tawny-bellied Screech-Owls. A Great Potoo sounded off and then we heard it - the distinctive low hoots of a Nocturnal Curassow.  Over the next couple of hours we followed the sounds of the curassow, led by Luis and another guide he had brought along specifically to help with the curassow search (I did not catch his name). The curassows stay high in the canopy and after a bout of calling, remain silent for an hour or more. This makes it extremely difficult to track them down as lots of patience is required. After several hours we called it quits without having seen the curassow. It was approaching midnight and we had a very early wakeup scheduled for the next morning. Actually laying eyes on a Nocturnal Curassow will have to wait until a different trip to the Amazon basin.  February 22, 2024 The rooms at the ACTS field station are very simple with thin mattresses and no fan. Due to the warm temperatures it took me quite a while to fall asleep so I was feeling pretty groggy when the alarm went off. One benefit of the poor sleep was that I was awake to listen to the Nocturnal Curassow hooting away every so often. A magical sound.   Amazon Conservatory of Tropical Studies (ACTS) Canopy Tower, Loreto, Peru The canopy walkway stretches for approximately 500 m through terra firme forest, with different viewing towers at various junctions. A morning session on a canopy walkway is always something we enjoy and so this was going to be a treat!  Paradise Jacamar - ACTS Field Station/Canopy Tower, Loreto, Peru Laura, Luis and I spent most of the morning on Tower 6, which is the highest tower with the best views over the forest. Quite a few interesting species passed through the canopy tree in which this tower was positioned, and we had amazing views of a Dugand's Antwren, which was a big target for us as it is a canopy dweller with a limited range in western Amazonia. Dugand's Antwren - ACTS Field Station/Canopy Tower, Loreto, Peru  Other birds seen well in "our" tree included Duida Woodcreeper, Paradise Jacamar, Yellow-throated Woodpecker and Yellow-browed Tody-Flycatcher.  Duida Woodcreeper - ACTS Field Station/Canopy Tower, Loreto, Peru Paradise Jacamar - ACTS Field Station/Canopy Tower, Loreto, Peru Laura and I had our best ever views of a Lanceolated Monklet early on, as it perched below eye-level just a few dozen meters from us.  Lanceolated Monklet - ACTS Field Station/Canopy Tower, Loreto, Peru Another highlight was finally hearing my first Amazonian Black-throated Trogon and managing a good recording of it. Laura spotted a Spangled Cotinga on an exposed snag, and we encountered quite a few parrot, woodpecker and toucan species.  Spangled Cotinga - ACTS Field Station/Canopy Tower, Loreto, Peru Other highlights included White-necked Puffbird, Chestnut-winged Hookbill, Amazonian Elaenia and Black-headed Parrot. Unfortunately, the lack of any fruiting trees really limited the tanager action and we struck out with both White-bellied Dacnis and Short-billed Honeycreeper, both of which can be seen here if you are lucky.  White-fronted Nunbird - ACTS Field Station/Canopy Tower, Loreto, Peru The big story from the canopy walkway was the shear number of sweat bees. Their numbers slowly built throughout the morning until we were swarmed by hundreds of them. Though they don't sting, they are rather annoying and very distracting!  As we were leaving the canopy walkway, I tried playing tape for Slate-colored Antbird as it was one of my target birds here. Surprisingly, I immediately had a response! Laura, Luis and I watched as a female Slate-colored Antbird snuck out of the undergrowth and looked around, trying to figure out where the sound was coming from. Despite the limitations of my broken camera lens, I was able to snap a couple of "record" photos. This is a scarce species of terra firme in western Amazonia.  Slate-colored Antbird - ACTS Field Station/Canopy Tower, Loreto, Peru We walked back to the station, packed up and headed out. Instead of taking the boat back to the lodge, we were going to follow the trail system to maximize our bird sightings.  I didn't know it at the time, but this butterfly is quite rare and this is one of the few photos that now exist of it. It is a type of hairstreak called Bistonina bactriana.  Bistonina bactriana - ExplorNapo Lodge, Loreto, Peru The heat had really set in and it was a bit of a struggle, but we persisted. There weren't many birds given the time of day but we teased a few species out of the woodwork, including our lifer Black-and-white Tody-Flycatcher. Later on we watched a small party of Red-crowned Ant-Tanagers bounce through the understory. This must be a somewhat uncommon species here, as Luis mentioned that it was a lifer for him!  Black-and-white Tody-Flycatcher - ExplorNapo Lodge, Loreto, Peru Lunch, lots of water and a siesta were in order once we returned to the lodge. That afternoon we ventured out by boat to explore some different river islands. It felt great to get out on the water where the breeze created by the moving boat provided some relief from the scorching sun.    Black Caracara - unnamed river island near ExplorNapo Lodge, Loreto, Peru We visited a location on Isla Yarina where Luis had seen Black-banded Crakes before; they appeared after fifteen minutes of waiting and using playback. The views were pretty good for a few seconds, though I barely even managed a record photo. Still, it was nice to finally lay eyes on this secretive species.  From there we ventured down a tributary to a site where Band-tailed Caciques sometimes come to the river's edge. We waited in the shade for almost an hour and a half but the caciques didn't show. While waiting we were entertained by a male Wire-tailed Manakin. We also found Yellow-crowned Elaenia, Hauxwell's Thrush, Velvet-fronted Grackle and Green Ibis.  Wire-tailed Manakin - Laguna Urcomiraño tributary, Loreto, Peru We continued a short ways up the Río Napo to visit the final river island in a bid to find River Tyrannulet, one of the few river island specialities we still needed. The sun was, mercifully, lower in the sky but it still roasted us whenever we weren't shielded by the trees.  The tyrannulet remained unaccounted for and so we contented ourselves with watching a small group of Black Caracaras and a pair of Riparian Parrotlets. Both Yellow-billed and Large-billed Terns were flying around just offshore.  Riparian Parrotlet - unnamed river island near ExplorNapo Lodge, Loreto, Peru That evening Laura and I went for a walk with our flashlights in search of herps and whatever else we could stir up.  Acanthoscurria sp. - ExplorNapo Lodge, Loreto, Peru Osteocephalus sp. - ExplorNapo Lodge, Loreto, Peru Unidentified stink bugs (tribe Ochlerini) - ExplorNapo Lodge, Loreto, Peru Spiders were well-represented and included this Pantropical Huntsman Spider making a meal out of a katydid.  Pantropical Huntsman Spider (Heteropoda venatoria) - ExplorNapo Lodge, Loreto, Peru Laura spotted this Collared Treerunner on a trail-side log, a new species for us. One reason why we have never encountered it before is that it is an arboreal species that doesn't usually come down to the forest floor.  Collared Treerunner (Plica plica) - ExplorNapo Lodge, Loreto, Peru Collared Treerunner (Plica plica) - ExplorNapo Lodge, Loreto, Peru Our final frog of the walk was this Painted Antnest Frog. This species has a close relationship with leafcutter ants (Atta cephalotes), and it is often found calling from within the nests of these ants. Typically, leafcutter ants kill and remove any intruders but they don't seem to mind the Painted Antnest Frogs. This is a beneficial situation for the frogs as the ant nests provide a site with high humidity that is safe from predators like centipedes, snakes and spiders. It is not clear how the ants benefit from this arrangement; perhaps the frogs feed on possible intruders that may disrupt the ants.  Painted Antnest Frog (Lithodytes lineatus) - ExplorNapo Lodge, Loreto, Peru February 23, 2024 It was, unfortunately, our final morning along the Río Napo but we made the most of it. We visited a trail that follows the boundary of the lodge through a mixture of varzea and terra firme forest types. This would be our best shot at the Black-necked Red-Cotinga, while there was also a chance at the secretive Ochre-striped Antpitta. As the sky lightened, we motored up a small tributary before disembarking at the start of the trail.  Great-billed Hermit - ExplorNapo Lodge, Loreto, Peru It didn't take long to hear our first Black-necked Red-Cotinga calling from the forest canopy, but despite our best efforts it eluded us. We found a female later on and she cooperated!  Black-necked Red-Cotinga - ExplorNapo Lodge, Loreto, Peru We slowly made our way along the trail, adding many species to our eBird checklist although many of them were heard-only. These included Fiery Topaz, Golden-collared Toucanet, a nice diversity of antbirds and a surprise Brown Nunlet (they are quite scarce in this area).  Achilles Morpho (Morpho achilles) - ExplorNapo Lodge, Loreto, Peru Around 9 AM, we heard a few cacique-types vocalizing from further up the path and we quickly caught up with them. We still hadn't seen Band-tailed Caciques, and though I had mostly given up on this tricky species, this would be our chance! They often flock together with other oropendolas and caciques.  We were in luck! Band-tailed Caciques were the most common species in this flock and I estimated there were eight of them. We followed the flock as it meandered deeper into the forest off the trail. Band-tailed Cacique - ExplorNapo Lodge, Loreto, Peru This large cacique looks similar to an oropendola. It has a limited range in western Amazonia, and northern Peru is probably the best area to search for them. I was relieved to have finally connected with them! Band-tailed Cacique - ExplorNapo Lodge, Loreto, Peru Russet-backed Oropendolas and Yellow-rumped Caciques were traveling with the Band-tailed Caciques. I picked out a single Green Oropendola as well.  Band-tailed Cacique - ExplorNapo Lodge, Loreto, Peru As we rejoined the main trail to start the long walk back, I heard the distinctive song of an Ochre-striped Antpitta somewhere off trail. We were already running a little late and so we only tried to tape it in for a few minutes. We were unsuccessful, but I managed a few recordings at least.  The final big highlight of our walk was a saki monkey in the trees near the trail! This was only our second ever encounter with a saki but it was short-lived, as it promptly disappeared deeper into the forest. I never managed a photo. Based on range I believe this to be Hairy Saki (Pithecia hirsuta), but I may be mistaken. A very cool moment, even if it was short-lived.  And with that, we finished our walk and boated back to the lodge. We packed up our bags, ate lunch, and then loaded ourselves into the boat for the long drive back to Iquitos. It had been a very busy but productive five days in the Peruvian Amazon!