More from diamond geezer
A walk around the block can take a few minutes or quite a lot of minutes depending on where you live. For me it takes ten minutes, where I grew up it took 30 minutes and for my brother it takes over an hour, such is the paucity of rights of way in Norfolk. Attempted definition: a 'ride around the block' brings you back to where you started on a circuit with no other railways inside the enclosed space. Important clarification: interchanges must be at stations - no walking inbetween. Example: Green Park → Victoria → Westminster → Green Park is a ride around the block via the Victoria, Circle and Jubilee lines. The circuit is 4km long and encloses an area of about 180 acres. The shortest 'ride around the block' on the tube teensy sliver of the West End with the National Gallery in the middle. Charing Cross → Leicester Square: I started on the edge of Trafalgar Square by the top of the steps down to the tube station. Admittedly all these entrances are closed at present because the Bakerloo ticket hall is shut, but that's only temporary. I walked north past St Martin-in-the-Fields and the National Portrait Gallery to the entrance to Leicester Square station. It took me 5 minutes. Leicester Square → Piccadilly Circus: I headed west along the edge of Leicester Square past the Lego store and all the cinemas. Coventry Street was full of tourists and tat and got even busier as I reached Piccadilly Circus. It took me 5 minutes. Piccadilly Circus → Charing Cross: This was harder to walk direct because the grid of streets doesn't align and the National Gallery gets in the way. It's thus the longest of the three sides of the triangle, weaving back towards Trafalgar Square. It took me 7 minutes. Total walk: 17 minutes Charing Cross → Leicester Square: It was a 2 minute hike down to the Northern line platform because this station is seriously spread out, having been optimised for a tube line that no longer stops here. I got unlucky because I just missed a train and the next was 3 minutes away. After all that faff and waiting, the tube journey only took a minute. So far that's 6 minutes. Leicester Square → Piccadilly Circus: It took a minute and a half to follow the side passage to the Piccadilly line. I got unlucky because I just missed a train and the next was 3½ minutes away. After all that faff and waiting, the tube journey only took a minute. So far that's 12 minutes. Piccadilly Circus → Charing Cross: It took a minute and a half to follow the side passage to the Bakerloo line. I got unlucky because I just missed a train and the next was 4½ minutes away. After all that faff and waiting, the tube journey only took a minute. Total ride: 19 minutes The shortest tube rides around the block just shows the tube with no additional extra lines. First I looked for small gaps with stations at all the corners. These were almost all in central London. Then I measured the length of all the circuits. These are the ten smallest blocks I found. 1) 1.4km Charing Cross/Leicester Square/Piccadilly Circus 2) 1.6km Moorgate/Liverpool Street/Bank 3) 2.2km Tottenham Court Road/Holborn/Leicester Square 4) 2.4km Bond Street/Oxford Circus/Green Park 5) 2.5km Oxford Circus/Green Park/Piccadilly Circus 6) 2.6km Liverpool Street/Tower Hill/Aldgate East 7) 2.7km Oxford Circus/Tottenham Court Road/Piccadilly Circus 8) 2.8km Camden Town/Mornington Crescent/Euston 9) 2.9km Oxford Circus/Tottenham Court Road/Warren Street 10) 3.2km Baker Street/Bond Street/Oxford Circus area inside the block, not the distance round the edge, the smallest block changes. It's now Liverpool Street → Tower Hill → Aldgate East because the only gap in the middle is the Aldgate Triangle with an area of about 2 acres. But this is quite complicated to measure and throws up all kinds of anomalies so let's stick with distances instead. The longest ride around the block There are several huge loops in west London but they're all inadmissible because they don't have stations at the corners. The loop from Victoria south to Stockwell used to count but no longer does because the Battersea extension cuts across it. So we need to look to east London instead. The longest ride around the block on the tube turns out to be the Hainault Loop on the Central line. This is 20km from Leytonstone round to Hainault and Woodford, then back to Leytonstone again. That nudges into Essex, so if you want the longest ride around the block entirely within London it's Bank/London Bridge/West Ham/Monument at 18km long, which is just over 12 miles. all rail services, not just the tube. huge circuit from Clapham Junction to Richmond and Kingston and back again, all aboard one train, which is 30km long. However the District line intrudes inside this loop so I'm not allowing it. Instead the longest ride around the block is this loop in Greenwich and Bexley. The Blackheath/Slade Green circuit encloses 35 square kilometres - that's 14 square miles. That's a very large central area with no other rail services, this because the rail network across Bexley is rather thin and the local population isn't well served by London standards. The loop round Richmond and Kingston encloses a larger area at 56 square kilometres, but a lot of what's in the middle is Richmond Park and deer don't catch trains. Perth/Inverness/Aberdeen: 512km (318 miles), enclosing 4300 square miles Carlisle/Newcastle/York/Leeds: 472km (293 miles), enclosing 3000 square miles Carlisle/Newcastle/Edinburgh: 463km (288 miles), enclosing 4000 square miles The shortest ride around the block: Charing Cross/Leicester Square/Piccadilly Circus (1.4km) The longest ride around the block on the tube: the Hainault Loop (18km) The longest ride around the block within London: Blackheath/Slade Green/Blackheath (29km) Useful resources for checking all this: Google maps, Google MyMaps, tube map, tube map showing just the tube, geographical map of the London rail network, maps of the British rail network, Network Rail mileage lists
Fleeting CAMDEN TOWN The two branches of the river Fleet that rise on Hampstead Heath merge two miles lower down in the vicinity of Kentish Town. For my second visit to the river I'm skipping down to the confluence and attempting to follow its path onward through Camden Town. That means I won't be returning to Fleet Road in Hampstead to check if Fleet News still sells confectionery and bus passes (it does), nor going back to Tufnell Park where the river briefly pokes above ground to cross the Suffragette line in a rusty pipe (though I have fresh photographic evidence that it does). Instead let's revisit a backstreet off Kentish Town Road whose name nods back to a time before Victorian house builders covered the lot. This is Anglers Lane, once a haunt of freshwater fisherfolk, indeed 20 years ago the back of this Nando's featured a painted quote from an old Edwardian man who remembered catching fish and bathing here in his youth. That's long painted over and the sylvan river is also long buried, tamed into an arched culvert because it had the occasional habit of flooding on a grand scale. This specific area was residentialised in the 1850s, hence the streets have Crimean names like Inkerman Road, Alma Street and Cathcart Street, the latter built directly on the line of the former stream. Around the same time Europe's largest false-teeth factory was built on Anglers Lane, the premises of Claudius Ash & Co, but they departed in 1965 and the long redbrick building is now flats. Contours make it clear that the Fleet passed by at the foot of the lane via a slight dip on Prince of Wales Road. The name Kentish Town comes from an old name for the upper Fleet - the Ken Ditch, so called because it rose in Ken Wood at the top of Hampstead Heath. Minus ten points if you live locally and always assumed it was something to do with the county of Kent. Originally the heart of Kentish Town was lower down, nearer Camden, but better-off residents migrated up the valley as the Fleet there started to silt up and become more fetid. One regular visitor was Lord Nelson whose Uncle William lived in a house with a garden backing onto the river - cue hilarious anecdotes about the admiral coming to Kentish Town 'to keep an eye on the Fleet'. Nextdoor was a true local landmark, The Castle Inn, which is thought to have existed beside the stream since medieval times. The tavern gets 20 mentions in Gillian Tindall's seminal local history book The Fields Beneath, but longevity didn't save it and the Victorian incarnation only narrowly dodged demolition in 2013. Quinns is another corner pub, this time located in the sweet spot where the two main tributaries of the Fleet once merged. Its shell is a garish yellow, seemingly not repainted since I last blogged about the river in 2005, also the upper windows are in peeling disarray and half the gold lettering has fallen off. Everything about the physical building says 'closed' but everything online still says 'open', so I guess dishevelment is the disguise you need when you're the roughest pub in NW1. It's easier to research historic maps now than it was 20 years ago so I believe the actual confluence was marginally west, outside the pencil-fronted Hawley Primary School, but I'm surprised nobody's yet produced a truly accurate map tracing the Fleet across the urban landscape. Camden Road station and to the west runs Water Lane, the origin of whose name is self-evident, indeed there are reports than in 1826 the Fleet in flood was 65ft across at this point. The Regent's Canal reached Camden in 1816 and engineers faced a decision regarding how to cross the Fleet. They eventually decided that the two should share a course for a few hundred yards while weaving to the east, but with the Fleet relegated to a pipe underneath. A contemporary map shows the river meeting the canal by Kentish Town Road Lock, remaining hidden round the back of what's now the Sainsbury's superstore and re-emerging beyond the bridge at Camden Road. Follow the towpath today and you first pass Nicholas Grimshaw's arresting space-age wall of flats erected in 1989, then on the outside of the next bend the more recent and monumentally-unremarkable vernacular wedge of Regent Canalside. The end result, however you look at it, is that no local resident or tourist passing through would give the Fleet a second thought. There is however one place where the river still makes itself known and that's at the far end of Lyme Street. Stucco townhouses and smart terraces replaced the meandering Fleet here in the mid 18th century, ten of them now Grade II listed. Keep going and you reach the Prince Albert, a glaze-fronted tavern opened in 1843 with a similarly period interior. The pub is now hidden behind an enormous tree the size of a mushroom cloud, which may be why it describes itself as Camden's Best-Kept Secret on social media, although the racket coming from the screened-off beer garden suggests several people are well aware. But perhaps fewer realise that if you stand out front you can hear the sound of the culverted Fleet plain as day through a grating in the street. Look for the circular drain cover, keeping watch for bikes because it's recently been absorbed into a cycle lane junction, and if the light's right you might even see the rushing water as well as hear it. I certainly did. To follow the Fleet out of Camden cross Royal College Street and head for St Pancras Way. This is now a one-way ratrun that shadows the Regents Canal but in fact it follows the alignment of a very old packhorse track alongside the Fleet. To the right of the road the land still dips noticeably, most noticeably by the student accommodation at College Grove, while a Parcelforce depot fills much of what remains a marginal valley bottom. Elsewhere a massive regenerative blast has taken hold, from the hulking St Pancras Campus to a stripe of canalside apartments and a big hole where a life sciences cluster called Tribeca is taking shape. The developmental whirlwind only ceases at the gloomy walls of St Pancras Hospital, formerly St Pancras workhouse, and I'd best stop there before the Fleet trickles into St Pancras proper. 'Tracking the Fleet' by Mark McCarthy, an 18-page historic analysis of where the river ran through Camden 22 Fleeting photos so far (10 from round here)
Last week I was walking along the Greenway between West Ham and Plaistow when I spotted some new notices. A lot of the Greenway is closed at the moment so I assumed it was about that. The title on the first notice was 'Manor Road NOS Improvements', explaining underneath that NOS stands for Northern Outfall Sewer. But nowhere on the poster did it say anything was closed or closing so I didn't give it a second look. the map a second look. It showed a closure on the Greenway much longer than at present, with big 'no entry' signs at Abbey Creek and Upper Road. It seemed to suggest the section of the Greenway I was standing on was closed, except it plainly wasn't because I'd just walked along it. No dates appeared on the map, just as on the poster, nor any text confirming a closure. I carried on walking to BestMate's and we finished off watching Squid Game. on their website! The Greenway will indeed be closing here, additionally incorporating the bridge over the District line, but not until October. Why they didn't mention October anywhere on the printed notices I have no idea, but my best guesses are that either i) Thames Water don't want to frighten anyone yet, or ii) the people who designed the posters are incompetent. I've made this summary to show what's closing when. It's not official but I hope it makes things clearer. (normally you'd colour the Greenway green, but I've used brown for hopefully obvious reasons) I know the Northern Outfall Sewer is critical infrastructure and also Victorian, hence long-term maintenance is essential and works are likely to be major. But three years is a bloody long time to be sent off on a diversion, and given the lack of alternative routes locally it's a horrific diversion too. Thames Water's closure map shows two diversions, a green one and a blue one, both substantially longer than the direct red. Blue runs north and connects to Stratford town centre rather than the other closed end of the Greenway. Green runs south and has to skirt the whole of West Ham Recreation Ground and the East London Cemetery. Bafflingly blue is described as northbound and green as southbound, despite direction being irrelevant in this case, so I can only assume that i) they meant northern and southern, ii) the people who designed the posters are incompetent. closed section of the Greenway will be 1.3km long. green diversion is 2.5km long. blue diversion is 3.1km long. The map also includes an orange line, a 'route connecting' blue back to the Greenway. This it turns out is the shortest diversion of all, a mere 2.0km, but you'd never draw that conclusion from the colours on the map. The diversion could be even shorter if the orange line followed Stephens Road instead, a reduction to 1.9km, and for both these reasons I conclude i) the people who designed the posters are incompetent, ii) the people who designed the posters are incompetent. Look, I said, the background map you've used doesn't even show the rest of the Greenway, only a blank grey background. the notice and the map. But I hope he passed on my observations and suggestions, and that the information provided by Thames Water evolves as the closure date approaches. If you're going to make everyone's journeys hugely worse for three years the least you can do is warn them competently.
post-Mansfield housekeeping 100 largest towns and cities by population. At the start of the year I had 13 to go but since then I've ticked off Sunderland (32nd), Hartlepool (84th), Stockport (60th), Chesterfield (85th) and Mansfield (99th). In this endeavour even 99th counts. Of the eight towns that remain the largest is still Huddersfield (33rd), the southernmost is now Warrington (34th) and all lie in a narrow stripe between Lancashire and Lincolnshire. Chesterfield/Mansfield under £45 by taking advantage of an East Midlands Railways sale (last day today). It's still the least-good-value gadabout I've been on recently. Pronto, which was an illuminating ride threading through former pit villages. Normally I'd have cursed getting the trainee driver reticent to pull out into traffic, but in this case it gave me longer to stare at things. To see the country sometimes you have to get off the train. Blackburn: £56.60 07.30-10.33 (via Wigan Bolton) (£31.30 up) (B-B £5.15) Burnley: £55.45 07.33-11.01 (via Leeds) (£37.65+£17.80) L-Black £31.30, B-B £5.15, Burn-L £17.80 (07.30-23.08) = £54.25 Huddersfield: £54.95 including rail replacement bus from Stockport (or STocport + £15.70, arrive 12.10) St Helens: £56.55 arrive 09.50 back 22.05 (or £14.65 from Crewe) Warrington: £52.60 7.16-10.25 (or £10.75 from Crewe) (Warrington St Helens £4.50) Scunthorpe: £30.50 09.48-12.03 19.08-21.29 Barnsley: £54.85 07.30-10.09 18.00-2036 £57.40 (Hudder bus £3.30 1h30) Stockport £18.60 6.43-10.26 19.19-22.24 Crewe: £13.90 06.43-08.51 19.13-20.27-->
Gadabout: MANSFIELD Mansfield is the largest town in Nottinghamshire, but only because Nottingham is a city. It lies 12 miles north of Nottingham and an hour's bus ride southeast of Chesterfield on the other side of the M1. Again we're on the edge of an abandoned coalfield but Mansfield is probably better known for its proximity to Sherwood Forest, despite not quite being in that either. With a population nudging 100,000 it's no small market town, nor any major tourist draw, nor doing especially well on the economic front. But I uncovered plenty of interest for a one-off visit, indeed found the town quite eye-opening, and at least its museum was open this time. Ten postcards follow. [Visit Mansfield] [20 photos] ✉ The forest a plaque overlooking a none-too impressive oak. The inscription claims that an ancient tree stood here until 1940 and that the replacement was planted by the leader of the council in 1988, but if you stand here now outside a barber shop and a Moldovan grocery store it feels about as unforesty as you can get. Based on forest borders when King John was on the throne, however, Mansfield's centrality claim is more convincing. Alas far less of Sherwood remains these days, the largest surviving swathe lying beyond easy walking distance to the northeast. It's a half hour bus ride to Edwinstowe if you want to see the historic Major Oak in Sherwood Forest Country Park, the massive tree in which Robin Hood and his merry men allegedly hung out. Realistically its girth would have been a lot less than 10m in those days, also the tree's not in good shape as it battles against old age and a changing climate, but it's still arguably a better tourist option than spending half a day in Mansfield. ✉ The railway Mansfield joined the railway network in 1849, initially as a terminus. In 1875 the line continued north to Worksop via a viaduct that cuts right across the heart of the town, though not in a domineering way. The 15 brick arches launch off from a sandstone cliff where people lived in cave houses until the end of the Victorian era, and land on the far side beside a lacklustre railway hotel. Mansfield lost its connection for Beeching-related reasons in 1964 and for many years claimed to be the largest town in England without a railway station, but was linked back up again in 1995 when the Robin Hood Line reopened. It still only gets one train an hour for most of the day though, hence the neighbouring swooshy bus station is considerably busier. ✉ The museum Leeming Street started out as a collection donated by a Victorian philanthropist who inherited his fortune from the Mansfield Brewery. This is one of the local industries celebrated in the entrance corridor along with Metal Box, a company that originally sold mustard in decorated tins before deducing there was much more money in exploiting the tins themselves. If you used to buy Altoid mints or still keep your screws in a rusting Quality Street tin the source was probably the Metal Box factory in Rock Valley, recently demolished. Once you walk past the museum's information desk the galleries become rather more sparse - some stuffed birds, a bit of art, a movie props exhibition, really not many dinosaurs - so I would very much suggest focusing your time on Made In Mansfield instead. ✉ The Market Place small portion on the northern side, through which thread shoppers and mobility scooters heading elsewhere. In the empty part I spotted a very prominent police car, intriguingly empty and still present two hours later, thus presumably parked there as a deterrent. The monument in the centre is a later addition to commemorate local landowner Lord George Bentinck, but alas the shell was so ornate that the money ran out and the central space reserved for his statue remains empty. Don't think pavement cafes and alfresco drinking, but there is a branch of my favourite pastry chain Poundbakery where the lady behind the counter called me 'duck' as she sold me two apple puffs for a quid. ✉ The Quakers claims to fame is that the Quaker religion has its roots here, this because the initial revelation striking George Fox came during the English Civil War while he was walking past the parish church. ["And as I was walking by the steeple-house side in the town of Mansfield, the Lord said unto me, That which people do trample upon must be thy food."] His first nonconformist conversion was of a local woman called Elizabeth Hooton, who it's said inspired the idea of silent worship, and a first meeting house was established on land outside the town centre. In a careless civic act the Old Quaker Meeting House was demolished in 1973 to make way for a new ring road called Quaker Way and now lies somewhere underneath the town's bus station, thus the Mansfield Quaker Heritage Trail is mostly a tour of the long gone. ✉ The trunk road A38 is England's longest two-digit A road and is 292 miles long. One end is in Bodmin in Cornwall and the other is here in Mansfield, and has been since 1977 when the road designation was extended northeast from Derby. The monster road terminates at an otherwise insignificant T-junction between the Superbowl and Taco Bell, this because the remainder of Stockwell Gate from here to Market Place had already been pedestrianised. All the other main roads round here start with a 6 so this numerical interloper really stands out. The Bodmin end of the A38 is prettier to be honest, but is merely a service roundabout so it's much easier to buy zips, get botoxed and park your car at this end. ✉ The mining in the locality. At Clipstone on the outskirts of Mansfield the headstocks have been retained and ex-miners run guided tours on Fridays, while at Pleasley Pit the reclaimed mineworkings are now a country park with a visitor centre which opens daily except Tuesdays. I also missed out on the correct opening days for the Nottinghamshire Mining Museum which occupies part of Mansfield station, so instead had to make do with admiring the chunky 'Tribute to the British Miner' statue unveiled on the ring road in 2003. ✉ The shops Four Seasons shopping centre has seen better days and leans heavily into cheaper stores, and if you step out back the former Beale's department store is a hulking eyesore awaiting the cash to turn it into a regenerated council hub. The mall that most affected me was the Rosemary Centre, a former cotton doubling factory founded by the Cash family in 1906. In 1989 the ground floor became a terraced shopping mall of dubious architectural merit, home to Argos, Domino's and Slacks newsagents, but has been sequentially decanted and the derelict arcade now has a brutal ambience. The plan is to replace the sawtooth-roofed building with a huge Lidl to try to regain footfall, which makes huge economic sense but nobody will ever look at their grey shed and think wistfully of what used to be. ✉ The leftbehindness ✉ The Heritage Trail Mansfield Heritage Trail comes highly recommended. You can download it before you arrive or pick up a nicely-bound free copy at the museum. For me it explained why a bronze man was leaning on a stack of metal rings at the foot of Church Street, what the 7m-tall stainless steel high heels were doing by the railway viaduct and which seemingly classical building on Regent Street was really just the former Electricity Showroom. Eye-opening all round. » 20 photos of Mansfield on Flickr (it should be obvious where Chesterfield starts and Mansfield begins)
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A walk around the block can take a few minutes or quite a lot of minutes depending on where you live. For me it takes ten minutes, where I grew up it took 30 minutes and for my brother it takes over an hour, such is the paucity of rights of way in Norfolk. Attempted definition: a 'ride around the block' brings you back to where you started on a circuit with no other railways inside the enclosed space. Important clarification: interchanges must be at stations - no walking inbetween. Example: Green Park → Victoria → Westminster → Green Park is a ride around the block via the Victoria, Circle and Jubilee lines. The circuit is 4km long and encloses an area of about 180 acres. The shortest 'ride around the block' on the tube teensy sliver of the West End with the National Gallery in the middle. Charing Cross → Leicester Square: I started on the edge of Trafalgar Square by the top of the steps down to the tube station. Admittedly all these entrances are closed at present because the Bakerloo ticket hall is shut, but that's only temporary. I walked north past St Martin-in-the-Fields and the National Portrait Gallery to the entrance to Leicester Square station. It took me 5 minutes. Leicester Square → Piccadilly Circus: I headed west along the edge of Leicester Square past the Lego store and all the cinemas. Coventry Street was full of tourists and tat and got even busier as I reached Piccadilly Circus. It took me 5 minutes. Piccadilly Circus → Charing Cross: This was harder to walk direct because the grid of streets doesn't align and the National Gallery gets in the way. It's thus the longest of the three sides of the triangle, weaving back towards Trafalgar Square. It took me 7 minutes. Total walk: 17 minutes Charing Cross → Leicester Square: It was a 2 minute hike down to the Northern line platform because this station is seriously spread out, having been optimised for a tube line that no longer stops here. I got unlucky because I just missed a train and the next was 3 minutes away. After all that faff and waiting, the tube journey only took a minute. So far that's 6 minutes. Leicester Square → Piccadilly Circus: It took a minute and a half to follow the side passage to the Piccadilly line. I got unlucky because I just missed a train and the next was 3½ minutes away. After all that faff and waiting, the tube journey only took a minute. So far that's 12 minutes. Piccadilly Circus → Charing Cross: It took a minute and a half to follow the side passage to the Bakerloo line. I got unlucky because I just missed a train and the next was 4½ minutes away. After all that faff and waiting, the tube journey only took a minute. Total ride: 19 minutes The shortest tube rides around the block just shows the tube with no additional extra lines. First I looked for small gaps with stations at all the corners. These were almost all in central London. Then I measured the length of all the circuits. These are the ten smallest blocks I found. 1) 1.4km Charing Cross/Leicester Square/Piccadilly Circus 2) 1.6km Moorgate/Liverpool Street/Bank 3) 2.2km Tottenham Court Road/Holborn/Leicester Square 4) 2.4km Bond Street/Oxford Circus/Green Park 5) 2.5km Oxford Circus/Green Park/Piccadilly Circus 6) 2.6km Liverpool Street/Tower Hill/Aldgate East 7) 2.7km Oxford Circus/Tottenham Court Road/Piccadilly Circus 8) 2.8km Camden Town/Mornington Crescent/Euston 9) 2.9km Oxford Circus/Tottenham Court Road/Warren Street 10) 3.2km Baker Street/Bond Street/Oxford Circus area inside the block, not the distance round the edge, the smallest block changes. It's now Liverpool Street → Tower Hill → Aldgate East because the only gap in the middle is the Aldgate Triangle with an area of about 2 acres. But this is quite complicated to measure and throws up all kinds of anomalies so let's stick with distances instead. The longest ride around the block There are several huge loops in west London but they're all inadmissible because they don't have stations at the corners. The loop from Victoria south to Stockwell used to count but no longer does because the Battersea extension cuts across it. So we need to look to east London instead. The longest ride around the block on the tube turns out to be the Hainault Loop on the Central line. This is 20km from Leytonstone round to Hainault and Woodford, then back to Leytonstone again. That nudges into Essex, so if you want the longest ride around the block entirely within London it's Bank/London Bridge/West Ham/Monument at 18km long, which is just over 12 miles. all rail services, not just the tube. huge circuit from Clapham Junction to Richmond and Kingston and back again, all aboard one train, which is 30km long. However the District line intrudes inside this loop so I'm not allowing it. Instead the longest ride around the block is this loop in Greenwich and Bexley. The Blackheath/Slade Green circuit encloses 35 square kilometres - that's 14 square miles. That's a very large central area with no other rail services, this because the rail network across Bexley is rather thin and the local population isn't well served by London standards. The loop round Richmond and Kingston encloses a larger area at 56 square kilometres, but a lot of what's in the middle is Richmond Park and deer don't catch trains. Perth/Inverness/Aberdeen: 512km (318 miles), enclosing 4300 square miles Carlisle/Newcastle/York/Leeds: 472km (293 miles), enclosing 3000 square miles Carlisle/Newcastle/Edinburgh: 463km (288 miles), enclosing 4000 square miles The shortest ride around the block: Charing Cross/Leicester Square/Piccadilly Circus (1.4km) The longest ride around the block on the tube: the Hainault Loop (18km) The longest ride around the block within London: Blackheath/Slade Green/Blackheath (29km) Useful resources for checking all this: Google maps, Google MyMaps, tube map, tube map showing just the tube, geographical map of the London rail network, maps of the British rail network, Network Rail mileage lists
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There are many things about 8 by Andy Sheridan that might rub you up the wrong way. The name, for a start - I've never really been behind the idea of any restaurant being purely "by" anyone; except in very rare cases, these things are surely a team effort, particularly as on this occasion, the titular chef wasn't even on site. And there are few things more off-putting after committing to an evening at such a place than being emailed a giant list of rules, directives and get-out clauses - any modification to the booking less than 7 days(!!) before the event will result the full £120 menu being charged per person, being any more than 15 minutes late on the day is regarded as a no-show (same penalty), only pescatarians can be catered for, not vegetarians or dairy-free or gluten-free... it all tends to give the impression that you're doing them a favour turning up at all, rather than the other way round. So yes, there's a lot about the place that seems designed to irritate, a certain arrogance and swagger that seems unnecessary or unearned. "Here we go," you might think, "another too-big-for-his-boots regional chef who after a couple of Great British Menu appearances thinks he deserves three Michelin stars and a sponsorship deal with Hexclad. I see your game, matey". As much as I try to approach these things with an open mind there was an aspect of the attitude that strongly invites cynicism. And so it's that much more of a surprise and a delight to report that 8 by Andy Sheridan turned out to be so absolutely, flabbergastingly good. The fireworks started from the first bite. A delicate little tomato meringue with a fresh, light burrata filling topped with a generous mound of black truffle. Boldly flavoured, perfectly seasoned, and so carefully constructed the whole thing burst into a tomato-truffle-dairy explosion in the mouth, it was the kind of thing so many places can get technically right but forget to add that extra element of personality. As much as I loved much of what I ate at Bo.tic, very often their food was impressive but emotionally underwhelming. That never happened at 8. Tuna tartare with black garlic, avocado and chilli was another vaguely familiar collection of ingredients that punched way above their weight thanks to an expert balance of textures and seasoning, and a lovely strong chilli kick at the end that made the other elements sing that little bit louder. And then finally from the snacks, a gruyere, liquorice and almond purée tasting - I hope they don't mind me saying - like a very posh marmite butter, where the liquorice element thankfully limited itself to a faint hit of umami, all offset nicely by a layer of sweet Roscoff onion chutney underneath. The textures were, once again, immaculate - the superbly delicate pastry just about holding itself together until eaten - and the flavours rich and satisfying. As a trio of canapés go, these were pretty much perfect. Reseated downstairs in a stylishly-lit (ie. dark - sorry about the photos) room containing just 16 seats arranged in front of two large sushi-style counters with a dedicated chef each, we were presented with the bread course, a "Parker roll" with honey and cultured butter. The top of the rolls were glazed with an interesting variety of dried herbs and the bread itself was soft and sweet and as deliriously addictive as anything outside of The Devonshire. And believe me, that's high praise indeed. The next course was confit trout - a fantastic bit of fish worth the price of admission by itself, but served on a bed of split parsley sauce with pickled green strawberries and fennel it became something even more spectacular. You don't have to do much to one of my favourite fishes to impress me, but here, cooked to buttery, unctuous perfection and in an earthy, vegetal parsley sauce that wished would never end, it was just a world class bit of cooking. I worry about repeating myself. The problem with the food at 8 - at least the problem for me - is that more or less everything was unimprovable; the absolute best it could possibly be. And although that makes for a great evening at the time - and it bloody did, and then some - trying to convey that reality using my own mediocre vocabulary runs the very real risk of underselling it. This pork belly, for example, pulled apart into satisfying firm layers, and was accompanied by a little blob of hibiscus miso purée on the side and a wonderfully complex sigil pal (a Mayan pumpkin-seed-based salsa apparently) underneath. The flavours were incredible - each bit of it deserving a short novel never mind a paragraph on a food blog - but the star remained that pork, careful ageing providing an amazing complexity. Seabass next, crudo, in coconut, peanut and coriander. Despite its seeming ubiquity on restaurant menus these days I always enjoy seabags, though I imagine only the best stuff can be used raw like this. The fish itself was lovely and clean and fresh with a tender bite, and the coconut, peanut and coriander made a kind of ceviche which as well as working incredibly well took the meal in a whole new direction, geography-wise. While much of the ingredients that 8 make use of are resolutely local (or at least as local as makes sense in a modern restaurant in 2025), the inspiration for the flavour profiles come from all over the world. If the pork belly was kind of pan-Asian, the seabass definitely looked towards South America. And with the duck, we went French. Duck and celeriac is a time-honoured match, and I'm sure I don't need to tell you that 8 make a supremely light and smooth celeriac purée and can cook a bit of duck breast to pink, plump perfection. All elements were draped in one of those light summery jus', and I'm very glad I left some of the bread to mop it up because it really was superb. The pescatarians were given the same purée and a very similar jus (presumably one not involving duck) but with hen-of-the-wood mushroom as the main protein, which actually turned out to be even better at soaking up that amazing sauce. One of the things I've noticed about tasting menu joints over the years is that quite often when the savoury courses underwhelm things tend to get a lot more interesting by the desserts, and vice versa - a kitchen firing on all cylinders for the fish and meat courses seem to lose interest when it comes to pud. This is clearly not always the case but it's pretty noticeable when it happens. Any worry that 8 would take their eye off the ball when it came to the sweet courses was blown out of the water by the arrival of this sticky toffee pudding with stilton ice cream, quite the most brilliant twisting and updating of a classic British dessert that I can remember in a very long time. Without the ice cream this would have been a superlative version, all salty and sticky and gooey and full of everything that makes STP so good. But the stilton ice cream was a genuine work of genius, rich and funky from the cheese but thick and cool and deeply, satisfyingly dairy. I remember saying "I can't believe it" out loud, over and over again until my friend told me to stop. The rest of the desserts were hardly any less impressive. A little compote of summer berries was paired with a white chocolate mousse and I think was a lemon verbena sorbet, all of it fresh and lovely and full of colour and personality. But sadly it had to end somewhere and the final dish was an extraordinary collection of techniques applied to Jersey milk - made into crumbs, frozen into a super-smooth ice cream, and even dried and baked somehow into a cracker. Very clever stuff, but as I hope I've made clear by now, never at the expense of joy and enjoyment. Whatever techniques 8 have at their disposal, and by God they have a few, they turn them relentlessly and tirelessly into making their food as good as it can possibly be, from the very first bite to the last. I realise I'm sounding a bit like I'm writing a press release for them, but food this good tends to turn you into an evangelist. I wish they'd done at least something wrong so I could at least give some kind of nod towards impartiality but I'm really at a loss. A special word should go to their resident wine person Declan who was brilliant company throughout the evening and persuaded me to try a dry Riesling with the sticky toffee pudding rather than the Pedro Ximines sherry I would normally have gone for and turned out to be quite right too, damn him. OK, so I suppose the place ain't cheap - the bill came to £210pp but you still get way more than you pay for. And perhaps I'd have liked to have seen a bit more of this historic building's incredible architecture reflected in the restaurant interiors, which felt a little more "provincial nightclub" than "globally important metal-framed glass proto-skyscraper". But again, who cares really. The fact is, restaurants like this don't come along very often, so when they do they should be recognised, cherished and - most importantly of all - supported. If you're worried that £200 seems a lot for dinner - and let's face it, it is - remember that there are certain other spots up the Merseyrail Northern Line that will ask for even more, and good luck walking back to your city centre hotel from Ormskirk. 8 by Andy Sheridan really does deserve to be spoken about amongst the very best restaurants in the country, never mind Liverpool, and I can count on one hand the number of meals that have impressed me as much over the last so many years. And so looking back on that rather bolshy confirmation email now I can see that it wasn't so much misplaced arrogance it showed than a desire to protect themselves and their singular offering from the rather terrifying environment they're having to operate in these days. Now, more than ever, restaurants need you, and 8 by Andy Sheridan need you, and all they can offer in return is possibly one of the best meals of your life. And that sounds like a decent deal to me. 10/10